Jump to content

Keeping up with the kids. Got a step counting watch


Tmuir

Recommended Posts

Having a watch that can count your steps seems to be all the rage these days, so not wanting to seem to be out of touch with the latest fad I just purchased myself a step counting watch.

Pictures from ebay as item not received yet.

Am I missing the point a bit?  :D

pedometer1.JPG.700c99b6aa2bff4c51db1a94c81269a7.JPGpedometer2.JPG.c867a342d05d927ab5c30d81bc5824c4.JPG

 

Will certainly be something different to service.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, yankeedog said:

I like it..but it only goes to 110 steps! Good thing! You won't have to go very far!

LOL,

Its actually in miles not steps, so it goes to 110 miles. I don't think I'm likely to ever need to count my steps that high.

Made circa 1910 by the company Henri Chatelain (French company)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I the only one who finds it a bit odd that your step counter registers in miles? It was produced by a French company in 1910. France adopted the metric system in 1799 but due to resistance in some areas, made it compulsory in 1840, well before your counter was made. Was this item produced for US sales? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure about produced for the US, since @TMuir is in Western Australia, but certainly it was probably produced for export. 

In 1910 Britain was at the height of its colonial power, so it was most likely produced for the British market, then re-exported to the four corners of the globe from there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@TexasDon, although we may have started to adopt metric in 1965 we have been very stick in the mud about it. Our currency didn't decimalise until 1971, retail weights and measures hung on into the late '70's, and we still buy our beer in pints and our road signs..... you guessed it, they're still (thankfully) in miles. Interestingly, Australia was still miles up until 1974.

I reckon @AndyHull is on the money, made in France for the British market which at the time spread far and wide.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We are truly the backward ones here in the US. Our currency has always been decimal. We stubbornly resist any attempts to move to metrics. Our automobiles insure that every mechanic has to have tools in both systems. My Toyota Camry (Japanese) was actually built in Kentucky (US) and has both metric and imperial fasteners throughout. Oy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, TexasDon said:

We are truly the backward ones here in the US. Our currency has always been decimal. We stubbornly resist any attempts to move to metrics. Our automobiles insure that every mechanic has to have tools in both systems. My Toyota Camry (Japanese) was actually built in Kentucky (US) and has both metric and imperial fasteners throughout. Oy!

Imperial? I don't remember it that way. I do believe that the fasteners in your Toyota are manufactured in accordance with S.A.E. ( society of automotive engineers) standards. Imperial weights and measures were standardized after we parted ways with the British.US weights and measures are actually based on an older system that was in use in Britain in the 18th century, it's the reason why the US gallon is 128 ounces and the imperial gallon  160 ounces.I don't know if backwards is the right word however. Archaic would be more correct.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, TexasDon said:

Am I the only one who finds it a bit odd that your step counter registers in miles? It was produced by a French company in 1910. France adopted the metric system in 1799 but due to resistance in some areas, made it compulsory in 1840, well before your counter was made. Was this item produced for US sales? 

Yes I would prefer it to be in kilometers, but this one is coming to me from the UK, so it was made in France for export to the UK, hence why in miles.

You can find them in kilometers in France, but this one only cost my £14 plus postage, I've not found one in kilometers for for under £100 yet, but I'm sure I will one day. They usually sell for a lot more than £14 and when I saw this one that cheap I decided it was time for me to own one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • All I do is use a fine marker (sharpie) to put the service date on the back cover, this way it can be removed with some IPA and does no permanent damage to the watch. I'm in two minds about the whole service marking thing, sometimes it's good/bad to see the markings on the watch case back as you know it's been worked on and vice versa. However, if I took my car in for a service and the mechanic scratched some code into the housing of my engine I wouldn't be too impressed. Hence, I think my sharpie solution is a reasonable compromise.
    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
×
×
  • Create New...