Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 1/20/2019 at 9:14 PM, margolisd said:

Yeah, thanks Tmuir you are indeed correct. Preventing the HS from vibrating causes it to demagnetise. I put it in a plastic bag and held it gently in my fingers and it worked.

Does this mean it's best to remove the hairspring to demagnetise a watch movement and do the HS separately? As I'm sure it was my attempt to demagnetise a movement that ended up magnetising the HS in the first place.

Another thing that seemed to help, before I was only holding the button down and moving the object about half a meter out of the field. A full meter as suggested by ecodec actually seemed to make a big difference.

Thanks everyone. Mystery solved.

Glad I helped.

To give full credit I was told this by a lecturer at one of my night classes at the watch and clock school I attend.

I have demagnatised whole watches successfully before, but only using an expensive Greiner Magnomatic Demagnetiser unit that has built in decay, so you don't need to move it away at my watch school, never on my cheap Chinese demag. Also when the hairspring is in place both ends of the spring are restrained which won't completely stop the vibration, but will limit it.

I also agree that the full meter is important, I basically move it as far away as I can stretch my arm

You can see the same thing happen with tweezers if you try to demag them by only holding the end and leaving them open, they will vibrate in the magnetic field and won't demag properly, but will if you hold them closed and slowly move them away as you say up to a meter.

I would love to have the demag unit that is at my school, but as they cost £850 new I can see me staying with my $5 Chinese unit for a while yet.

  • Like 1
Posted

  you should still be able to find vintage watch de mags. on ebay .      if they don't work ,  it is a simple fix as its just a copper coil soldered to 110 volt, 60 cycle plug end -----  I DON'T KNOW  if they are diferent on UK  curent, but they sure work good in the US.  vin

Posted
1 hour ago, Tmuir said:

Also when the hairspring is in place both ends of the spring are restrained which won't completely stop the vibration, but will limit it.

If you are de-magging a whole movement then try and do it running as not only are both ends of the H/S restrained from the motive influence of the field but the spring itself is moving independently of the magnetic field, further enhancing the efficacy of the method.

  • Like 2
Posted

Interesting stuff. I'm working on quite a tiny movement at the moment and I don't know if that has something to do with it. But when I demagnetise the movement, even though the hairspring is fixed in place and running, it is magnetising the HS. When it comes away from the demagnetiser it instantly forms a cone shape and the movement starts going super fast. It seems the only way to demagnetise this movement successfully is to remove the HS first and demagnetise it separately.

  • 3 years later...
Posted

oh I'm so happy! I bought this device under the impression that it magnetized things ..then google told me it was a demagnetizer!! I was so sad until I watch that YouTube video..now I know it is simply: BOTH!! Even better..why are we against this concept at any degree!!?? Multi purpose tools are the BEST!!! K thanks!

Pearl

Posted
On 8/19/2022 at 1:25 AM, Laynezilla said:

oh I'm so happy! I bought this device under the impression that it magnetized things ..then google told me it was a demagnetizer!! I was so sad until I watch that YouTube video..now I know it is simply: BOTH!! Even better..why are we against this concept at any degree!!?? Multi purpose tools are the BEST!!! K thanks!

Pearl

I think watchmakers like things demagnetized.  Auto mechanics like things magnetized.  So, there's that.

Posted
On 8/18/2022 at 11:25 PM, Laynezilla said:

BOTH!! Even better..why are we against this concept at any degree!!??

The concept is fine if people know what they're doing. It's a lot easier to use a tool if it has a single function if you can end up magnetizing your watch because you don't really know how to use the tool then that's a problem.

1 hour ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I think watchmakers like things demagnetized

That is an interesting concept Would that prevent the screws from all sticking together? Fortunately my tweezers Cannot magnetized or it would be a real problems the screws stuck to the tweezers. Then it's sad I can't even demagnetized the entire watch as that would ruin the magnets on the tuning fork.

1 hour ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Auto mechanics like things magnetized. 

Not just auto mechanics it's really nice to have magnetized screwdrivers when you're working on a computer. That way if you drop a screw into the case which typically do it easy to get it back out again.

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 1/27/2019 at 1:42 PM, margolisd said:

Interesting stuff. I'm working on quite a tiny movement at the moment and I don't know if that has something to do with it. But when I demagnetise the movement, even though the hairspring is fixed in place and running, it is magnetising the HS. When it comes away from the demagnetiser it instantly forms a cone shape and the movement starts going super fast. It seems the only way to demagnetise this movement successfully is to remove the HS first and demagnetise it separately.

I worked with a Japanese guy who swore by wrapping the balance complete in watch tissue. It actually solved issues for me (very small jlc calibers). I have the Greiner Magnomatic (and sister machine that detects magnetism) .

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Like 1
Posted
On 1/20/2019 at 12:44 AM, AndyHull said:

Old fashioned colour cathode ray tube degausing coils

Wow CRTs. That's old school.  Why does 13.675k keep popping into my head now.  Sink pulse on green, I think.

Posted
On 1/24/2019 at 8:16 AM, Tmuir said:

To give full credit I was told this by a lecturer at one of my night classes at the watch and clock school I attend.

Very few of us are born with all the information we and those around us will need.  It all just build, layer upon layer.

Good form though.

Posted

I use the coil out of a 240v motor contactor and run it on 110v.  Works pretty good.  I have seen some 24v contactors rated for AC/DC that had an internal diode to protect control circuitry.  They won't work and will just magnetize stuff.

18 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

not with NTSC system.

Sorry, apparently that was an old Radio neuron not an old TV neuron.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...