Jump to content

Incabloc spring replacement


rduckwor

Recommended Posts

I have a nice AS 1746/47 movement I was servicing and when I attempted to remove the lower balance jewel for cleaning/oiling, the incabloc spring broke.  I've sourced the spring and removed the setting from the plate, but this is the devil trying to set the spring hinge into the setting.  Anyone have any tips that might make this a bit more successful?  Thanks,


RMD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, rduckwor said:

I have a nice AS 1746/47 movement I was servicing and when I attempted to remove the lower balance jewel for cleaning/oiling, the incabloc spring broke.  I've sourced the spring and removed the setting from the plate, but this is the devil trying to set the spring hinge into the setting.  Anyone have any tips that might make this a bit more successful?  Thanks,


RMD

This is one of the more fiddly tasks. It takes some practice before you can do it with tweezers.

When I was struggling to do it,  I put some Rodico just above where the spring goes - make a vertical surface.

 Then stick the spring to it, so it's just above the slot.

I use some sharpened pegwood to push the bottom of the spring down in to the slot, whilst moving the top of the spring in to the correct angles using another piece of pegwood or tweezers.

With the spring held in the Rodico, it's easier to manipulate without it pinging off. 

Cap jewel tiddly-winks is another good game !

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a real fiddly job. My tips are as follows very good magnification, the ideal is a microscope, demagnetise the spring and movement, absolutely well dressed tweezers and peg wood. If the first time experience I recommend putting the movement inside a clear bag because for sure the spring will fly off a few times before success. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't be of much help myself as I still find this a difficult task; though I'm a lot better than when I started out.  So hang in there and don't get discouraged (advice really given to myself!).  I've tried the plastic bag approach but find it awkward to work with.  Seems like you have to cut out the bottom so each hand can enter the bag, right?  Also, I find that having the jewel setting in place before putting in the spring helps.  Even so, there are dozens of shock systems out there.  Incabloc is perhaps the best.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The wheels turned fine. I set the escape wheel in the epoxy when it had just ‘skinned’ and wasn’t set, made sure it spun with the 4th wheel, and let it set.    After cleaning I assembled the barrel and wheel train - all fine. Moving the barrel the escape wheel spun freely. I put a bit of 9010 in my epoxy setting.    It went wrong when I put the pallet fork in. It wasn’t seated right (no jewels) and the escape wheel  knocked a pallet jewel out. I have no idea how to reset a pallet jewel - epoxy again? I’m not spending any more time on this one - it’s missing hands and the front half of the case anyway, and I have more watches ready to put on the bench. 
    • No John, we don't want Mark to change anything, we are just scared of losing a brilliant forum and losing contact with each other.  As pointed out, this forum is full of knowledge and I for one,  consider the regulars friends. I would hate to lose contact with you and the others.   PS, this forum is really important to me. 
    • one little minor problem with your chemistry experiment here which is what exactly is epilam? In other words is it an exact substance with the chemical you specify or is it a term? For instance originally it was steric acid either dissolved in some sort of solvent or it was applied by vaporizing it. Then now it's all kinds of different things the watch companies all have different ideas there's a whole bunch of patents. So is not always an exact substance.   let me snip out a image from the patent that I attached up above. Notice I highlighted something it seems to disagree with your evaluation.  
    • I guess You had to try, as it would be hard to sleep without that try, but, I know the result before the experiment... As I told before, the friction will be so big that the wheel will not turn. The pivots have to be thin and polished - the bigger the number of the wheel (2th, 3gh, 4th...), the thinner the pivot. What You are trying to do is possible, but forming the new thin pivot must be done on lathe. Thus the wheel will get shorter, but can have new pivot without the drilling for normal standard repivoting. Then piece of brass can be soldered under the pivot hole in the bridge and new hole drilled in it to form the new bearing.  Well, this way is not the recommended one, not quite correct, but it is possible to do for the excersize... When I say lathe, lathe may be verry simple, someting like turns, but made of what one has in reach of his hands. If You want to try, I will try to guide
    • yes by all means let's gather up our weapons tar feathers find the nearest tree in case Mark is not agreeable to our terms on our demands and storm his Castle. I don't quite understand what you're trying to do here? In other words you want Mark to somehow guarantee that the group will live on forever no matter what? You want Mark to somehow change his business model of what is trying to do or should we just take the group away from him? oh and is quite possible that Mark never realized that his discussion group would take on a life of its own. That the members of the group would like to continue on forever.  
×
×
  • Create New...