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  1. Hello - I started getting interested in watches about 10 years ago when I interviewed a local watchmaker for a design project in school. I picked up a 1965 Seiko Weekdater around that time and have sent it away to be rebuilt once since then, wearing it daily, pleasantly ticking away on my wrist. My wife's father passed recently and I was given his daily-worn 1976 Bulova Accutron in non-working condition. I finally got around to trying to sort it out and I was surprised to find that it needed more than a battery and also surprised when researching that the movement is so different and transitional. I would not really dream of tangling directly with the Accutron guts so I sent it off to someone with more direct knowledge and an appropriate parts-bin for it (works great, now). Along the way, though, my own interest was piqued and I looked around for more simple watches that I could perhaps learn on, with the objective of being able to service them and know them. Soon I had several decades-old soviet watches in the mail from Kiev which I'm having fun wearing and restoring but would eventually like to service. Now I have an ST-36 on the way, a very-expensive set of small screwdrivers and tweezers, magnification, and I've sprung on this course bundle after surveying a few options. I have a background of software, and lots of automotive projects large and small, but nothing so fussy and tiny as watch maintenance in my resume. Hoping that pure curiosity and interest can push me forward through any frustrations. Glad to join this community and please wish me luck! steve
  2. My worst nightmare keyless works fix is on an Accutron 2182 day date. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  3. Had this problem a few weeks ago with my own 218. Make sure that nothing is making contact with the case back and the gasket is installed properly. On mine, I’d not got the gasket on properly, the watch would run fine with the back and gasket off, but stop the minute both were back on. Took a bit of fiddling to get them back on in a way the my accutron liked. Seemed to be very little rhyme or reason to it either, but it’s worth noting my accutron doesn’t have the original gasket with it either.
  4. I bought a fully restored Bulova accutron spaceview 214 a couple of months ago. A beautiful watch with an amazing history. The hands started to fail by not turning, and once i give it a small shake, it starts working again. Even though the hands stop moving, i can still hear it humming. I thought it might be the battery dying, so i changed it with the recommended accucell-1 1.35 silver oxide battery. Unfortunately as before i face the same problem again, it works for a couple of hours and then it just stops until i give it a light touch or shake. I would appreciate it if you could help shed some light on this issue and how i can go about resolving it, thank you.
  5. Camera books? I have a few, and on old watches, and electronic (like accutron) BUT, " I hate electronics". cheers, vin
  6. This was an odd repair. Had a screw loose within the movement from the rotor gear plate. It was jammed under the Balance wheel preventing it from moving and likely would shake loose from time to time. I got it out and screwed it back in place: correctly and sealed the back and cleaned it up. Ready and working. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. No idea about the 10 1/2 F either unless it's the size in ligne that the dial fits. Something on the order of 23.68 mm. Sadly, you're probably correct about the need to hide the Jewish identity of the recipient. Bulova was at one time a US manufacturer that utilized Swiss movements. Currently the brand is owned by Citizen Watch of Japan and split into two lines. Bulova which utilizes Japanese movements and Bulova Accu-Swiss which was formerly known as Bulova Accutron. The Accu-Swiss line is supposedly Swiss made.
  8. id like to find a cheep mvt. for my collection of emty accutron cases. vin
  9. Hi All I've an 11 jewel 1879 Waltham pocket watch with very old and pitted jewels, particularly 4th and escape wheel. They've caused a bit of uneven wear on the pivots so I'm getting wavey traces on the timegrapher. I've polished the pivots and this has improved the situation a fair bit, but would really like to replace the old jewels. Now, as they are held in chatons, is there any way of purchasing replacement jewels complete in the chatons? I had assumed since Waltham made bajillions of watches that spares for the jewels in chatons would be simple to find, but I'm buggered if I can! Am just I going to have to try and put replacement jewels in the existing chatons? I'm just a hobbyist, but am a bit of a perfectionist so would like to get the watch running as well as I can. She's a lovely heavy size 18. Next watch I'm on to is an accutron space view... A bit of a different beast! Cheers in advance guys.
  10. Hi , ..Nice Hamilton . Looks like my X-Wind . As far as the Accutron running fast , you are talking about phasing the watch to run on higher voltage batteries . At 1.5 instead of 1.3 volts . You may want to try an accu-cell made for this . You can try one ,...as they are more expensive , to see the outcome .
  11. I just got one of those Accutron astronauts as well and I love it. It runs a little fast, but I understand that it just means it needs to be adjusted for the higher voltage off modern batteries. Maybe I'll find someone to do that this spring. This is my current daily though: Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  12. could i be just a sales pitch? much like the railroad watches, designated RR on the case,BUT not certified.? accutron soled a wrist watch with it on the dial. vin
  13. Given at least some similarity to the Accutron, I wonder if someone who works primarily on those would be willing to take this one? Oldfathertime.com and accutrons.com are the two places I know of. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  14. I'm unable to answer your question, but I'm wondering if these movements are the same as or similar to the original Bulova Accutron movements?
  15. welcome - welcome. the Bolova Accutron history is Very interesting, but not well understood buy the collectors or the "watch mechanics" (electronics). i have a spaceview (as found) and several emty nice accutron cases. i am shure you will have a lot to offer this good forum. vin
  16. In 2011, while still in college, I was watching modern marvels one Sunday, and a short segment about the Accutron came on. I was intrigued, yet never really was a watch person. I saved up and bought a 214 hope it to later convert it to a Spaceview. Since then I have been repairing all types of watches, especially Accutrons. My most recents are an Electroquartz and Ultraquartz. I have no formal training, but love new challenges. If you ever have Accutron questions, I may be able to answer them! Can’t wait to be a part of the forum! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Indeed the movement does not require a spacer. What is the problem with the tension ring and the crystal ? I had an Accutron once that came with a standard ACT tension ring acrylic crystal and I replaced it with a new one and everything was fine, you just have to do some tests. Usually they fit.
  18. Hello, I have just joined and see that there are lots of new members here, many of whom seem to be novices like me. I confess that not only is my interest in watches very recently acquired but I am honest enough to admit that I don't know if it will last: my real love is photography. However, I have recently bought a very nice-looking watch at a thrift store: it cost me about $12 and I was so pleased with it that I spent $30 on a new leather strap for it. I have also bought some basic tools for changing straps and batteries. My interest is in watches as aesthetic items, and in watch-collecting, rather than in watch repair: I don't have a good natural aptitude for fixing things. But I do like to "have a go" and am quite careful and methodical. If I am going to buy watches cheap, online or in thrift stores, they may well need fixing up to a greater or lesser degree. If I want to start a basic watch collection my first instinct is to aim for a variety of styles and mechanisms. My two watches both have quartz movements. My thoughts right now are that the quartz movement is, by far, the most sensible technology for watches. It's the most accurate time-keeper and also very economical i.e. cheap! However, I am hankering after acquiring a watch with either a mechanical movement or possibly an Accutron, tuning fork movement. I would appreciate any advice on how to plan my next purchase. Really I think I am just going to use my aesthetic sense: some very expensive watches can, to my eyes, be quite vulgar in appearance while some cheaper watches can surprise me with their elegance.
  19. Hello everyone... Bulova ACCUTRON (carcass)
  20. Well I finally did it. Dug out the old Hamilton with its demised 500 movement and modified it--just a bit! but not with a 667 Hamilton to make 'Pacermatic' oh no, much more fun with a tuning-fork movement, still 'electric' and still a revolutionary movement, with that graceful seconds hand flow motion. Go Quartz?--You Must be joking! The original 500 movement had broken trip/contact wires, and try as I did, cant find any anywhere. Looks like they went unobtainium sometime last century! I recently got hold of a mens Accutron, I had thought was a 2180, but turned out to be the smaller 2301 so-called, ladies movement in the mens case with a substantial brass spacer-ring. This movement is just a fraction bigger than a British penny, runs at 480Hz with 240 tooth Index-wheel but unlike the other ladies Accutron this caliber has a seconds hand. I dismantled both watches. The coil was dead in the Accutron, so I sourced another complete working watch for £20--Bargain! I serviced the first movement then borrowed the coil from the worker fitted it, where it ran under a glass in its holder for a couple of weeks. I used the now coil-less worker movement as a template for my experiments. I examined the Hamilton movement ring. This part has two projections that serve to retain the battery overhanging the side of the 500 movement, so these would need to be removed. A small grinder took care of that. I now had a more or less round hole in the Hamilton spacer-ring, into which I hoped to fit the Accutron brass spacer. The Accutron spacer was just a little too big, so I reduced its external diameter a little until it fitted the Hamilton ring. I lined up the stem slots and roughly held in position with rodico. fitted the template movement in the middle then came the dial. Here I had a problem. The feet were exactly in line with the outer diameter of the Accutron movement and the inner diameter of Accutron spacer-ring--Bugger, they had to go, which is a shame as I had wanted to retain them, hoped to drill the spacer-ring to accept them, it was not to be! So,--Off they came and the dial feet stumps ground down flush. Again with Rodico (love that stuff!) held the dial to the combo spacer-ring then offered it all into the front case half. Snapped the back on and checked for position of stem hole in movement to case--Amazingly, it was a straight clear shot right into the movement, so I tried the Accutron stem, all good! Out it all came again, so cleaned everything and securely soldered both the spacer-rings together, making one solid part. I then fitted the running movement to the spacer combo after flux and excess solder removed, and reattached the dial with a small amount of double-sided tape, that strong very thin stuff. Only issue now was the hands. The original Hamilton ones are all too big for the Accutron movement, so until I find a solution, I took the original straight gold hands from the mens donor Accutron and cut them to size, fitted them and reassembled back to the case. If you didnt know what a Hamilton Ventura or Pacer is supposed to look like, I guess you wouldnt tell, Its not too bad. The stem proved a Lot easier than I first thought. I shortened the mens case stem and again surprisingly, the Hamilton crown fitted perfectly. Its running now and will take some pics when I strip it all out again to clean the case and crystal, but its nice to wear this frankenstein love-child of two arch rival American watch makers.... --It even has kept time more or less to the second too! Anyone any ideas how I can source or modify hands to fit the Accutron movement so to re gain its correct appearance?
  21. Before I bought a couple of 344's, I had seen that they were the battery of choice for this watch. Even the website you provided says they are a replacement for the 1.35v #343 of yesteryear. However, the better voltage match of the Accutron-type would be nice. I might end up going for it and buying the the "Accucell" for it. If the watch was the later model that had the battery hatch it would all be so much easier. Every time I the battery is changed you have to "blow the hatch" and risk ruining the crystal with the vise during reassembly. Still, I like the watch enough to consider investing $11.00 per year. We'll see. BTW: It looks like in order to use the Accucell in the ESA9150, I have to do some sort of modification or something. This is noted on the website you posted, if one has a movement where the positive side faces up, i.e. the back of of the watch. They don't say what to do, just that they have a solution.
  22. Moving right along. There's no way that I could have done the job without having the technical manual. There are sequences that must be followed, or else. A couple of things to note though: 1.) When you're ready to fit the date-setting spring, don't install the bridge that is over it first, as specified in the manual. You need a little bit of room to compress the spring so that it fits into its recess, which is partially under the minute-wheel bridge. You can put in one screw first, and swing the bridge over and away from the spring boss, fit the spring in carefully, then swing the bridge back over its rear end, replace other screw and tighten both screws. 2.) There's a point where you need to move the thin spring arms that are installed on the lower side of the train bridge once it's installed. I filed the end of a brass tapered-pin down very thin, and used that, held in a pin-vise, to get in to manipulate those little suckers into their friction wheels. Those will be the plastic wheels that are on the center-wheel arbor, as well as the third-wheel(?). At any rate, they are the two plastic pulley-like wheels that sit parallel to the wheel itself. The little spring just add a touch of tension to the wheels. Interesting setup. 3.) There's a stop-works like setup for the date mechanism. Once you install it, be ready to check it for freedom. The first time I did it, it was only free to a point, but then locked up between the finger under the minute wheel and the maltese-cross piece below it. There's a channel in the top of the maltese that it seems you want the finger lined up with. After I redid it, it seemed to work fine. 4.) It does seem that the #344 battery, at 1.55v, packs a bit to much power for the watch, which was designed for a 1.35v battery. With that battery no longer being available, there's an expensive Accutron-dedicated battery that works well, but is expensive. With the 344, the watch does run fast. I'm going to try to regulate it by slowing it down at the balance. Trial and error is tough though, as it's a monocoque case that's a pain to open and close. The watch runs approximately +45 seconds per day with this battery. Would it be possible to slow it down enough at the balance? If so, how much should I move the regulator? I don't have a timing machine, so it's all trial-and-error, unless someone can help with some good info. Thanks ahead of time. Cheers. MAH00269.MP4
  23. Personally I always oil both ends of the centre seconds pinion/wheel.... This part is most/more prone to corrosion if for some reason moisture gets in the case. This pinion/shaft is holding the seconds hand--which acts as a heatsink, therefore that shaft will be fractionally cooler than the rest of the bulk of the movement, the result is condensation usually at the pivots, it then rusts/seizes solid--Or in the case of Accutron 214 gets twisted right off on the chaton jewel side, but strangely the watch keeps on running quite often......
  24. I only work on Tuning-Fork types, mainly Accutron.... The differences of the date mech of the 218 series relate to the day/date 2182 and the date only 2181/218D versions. they are fairly different too... Day-Date 2182 has the trip-spring with the hook that fits into pillar-plate, and abuts against a nipple, then onto date trip-arm, the date detent-spring is fitted After the date bridge is in place by threading it through the hole in the date-bridge, short end to middle of movement. 2181/218D has the date-trip spring thats threaded into/under the date bridge after the bridge is fitted.--Yup, Weird! If you strip the train on any 218x, during reassembly, leave the fourth wheel bridge off the bottom till the main bridge is fitted on top with all 4 wheels. This means there's only two wheels to locate the jewels, not three, (third locates anyway as its held by hack-lever.) Makes life so much easier and no need to poke around to locate the wheels, you dont want ever to touch the Index wheel with anything metal...
  25. Hi, I really like the accutrons. I currently have two, a cushion case spaceview and a 14kt tv case 214. As to what to do if they run too fast there's a few things to try which you may already know. Before phasing check to see how many teeth the index finger will hit before pulling away from the index wheel. If I remember correctly it shouldn't be more than 4 or 5. More than that means watch will have to run fast. I also remember reading somewhere that there are some that can't be phased for a modern battery and I have ran across a couple of those and had to resort to using the accucell. It seems like there are a lot of accutron collectors where I live. A guy just brought in four for me to work on last week. One was a spaceview with the second hand dragging on the crystal, one was a 218 with a bad coil and the other two just needed batteries. He also had an elgin electronic that someone had put a 387 battery in upside down. Even if battery had been right side up watch wouldn't work because it needed a 357 which is much thicker. The 387 wouldn't make contact with the hatch cover spring.
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