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DIY Screw polisher. Inspired by Alex Hamilton, I have made my own screw head polisher. Less than £4 in parts. I hour to make. Chuffed. Additional photograph information Bottom nuts are tightened to make a solid base. Nuts below and above wood are to make the level set when using the polishing base. I will get a small picture frame with glass to insert the polishing paper. The screws can be altered to accommodate. I can now polish to 1 micron. I piece of wood 2" x 2 1/4". 2 x M4-30mm bolts. 6 nuts. 1 pin vice from set of 4.

Have a look Watches Repair Grinding tools for repairing watches Polishing screws watch clip large steel wheel - AliExpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006323971307.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.222eNcXxNcXx7O&algo_pvid=9dbf666f-da7d-478b-aeec-3ccf26ccc021&algo_exp_id=9dbf666f-da7d-478b-aeec-3ccf26ccc021-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis!GBP!34.06!28.95!!!303.26!257.77!%402103890917122601452468668eed45!12000037037463356!sea!UK!4431570049!&curPageLogUid=Ap2YMIcipYZ9&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A Click where is says . Colour tool board right image. Full set of tools, for this item This is £132 plus 20% VAT plus postage = £170. Has ten different pin vice holders. Mine holds any size of Watch screw Charging £28 plus Vat plus delivery = $40 just for the paper holder Mine works well. Very solid

Ok, it gets even weirder. I did a Google Lens image search on one of his photos and found that it was from an earlier eBay listing. And it's from Pakistan. https://www.ebay.com/itm/404462530789

1969 Buova Sea King. Nice non-complicated clean dial with period font numbering that is pretty nostalgic, at least for me.

While my heart lies with mechanical watches, I'm a sucker for a pretty face, and these were too nifty to pass up. Neither appears to work, but I haven't dug in yet, or even found the correct batteries yet (Varta 548 or Renata 386). I took it apart and found what appears to be a ceramic circuit board with SMD components on it. Let the research begin.

I found another of his has photos from one that sold a month ago in Australia.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186371709129 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/404429535724

I see that yes, I've never met anyone that uses that . Good call Hector, hes definitely a dodgy seller then, he has screenshot those pictures dated 11th March. Yey more ammunition, fun evening tonight then

Edison said "Genius is 1% inspiration and 99% blowing things up." Or something like that.

A long time ago I bought a clock from an ebay seller they described it as working, which it wasn't it was in a right old mess. So I asked for my money back which the seller refused. I contacted ebay and explained it to them they said return it so I did. What I did was take photos of the process of packing it up. I contacted the seller and told them what I had been advised to do. I received a message from the seller telling me the clock was broken into pieces and they would not refund my money. As you can see I was one step ahead of them because I told ebay I had photos of the clock being packed up and you can see it isn't damaged, they agreed and I got my complete refund. Always stay one step ahead.

Well, 02 in 3602 means 'no shock protection, small seconds hand'. For sure there is only one balance staff for 3602, so no way to order wrong one, but spare parts from the last years of the production are wid bad quality. I would advice to true the balance and check how it behaves in the movement without the roller first. To see if the endshake is normal and the balance position against the lever bridge, because in Molnia the distance between the balance and the lever bridge is verry small and if not trued, the balance may rubb.

If you are interested in the hobby of watch repair then why not. There is no indication on the dials that can be seen that they contain anything other than quartz battery powered movements. Repairable ? depends on what the batteries have done inside. Cheap fashion watches will contain cheap quartz movements available for just a few of your low value currency, by far the most time - cost efficient way to have them working again. But by all means try your hand at actual repair, this is where the true value of these lay which is the personal experience to you, the knowledge and skill you will aquire. Enjoy matey.

Okay, I got the staff riveted in properly. Before resorting to super glue, I did a search on Youtube and found this video that uses a weird faceted stake to tighten up the roller table. And what do you know, I have one in my set. Gave it a shot, and it worked a treat. Now I have an excuse to buy the truing calipers I've wanted.

I notice the dial feet screws are not present between the plates, maybe the main-plate has them in the side...anyhow the dial will need to come off the view the setting mechanism for finger printing like RichardHarris said...

Well, first screw would be cosmonaut , but please mike don't tell Ross I said that. Wise idea.

If you can link to it we could have a look and give you our opinions! EDIT: Sorry, missed the link. I'd recommend a Unitas 6497 or a Chinese clone Seagull TY3600. When you start out you want Incabloc anti-shock springs as they are the easiest to handle. Quite often you can find genuine Unitas movements for not much money on eBay in pocket watches. For example: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313&_nkw=196326170759&_sacat=0 Also, if you later want to design your own watch around a Unitas 6497 you find tons of options, cases, hands, dials, on eBay.

Saw this power supply module on FB. Bought a couple for cheap on Amazon. Printed a case...added a switch. Voila. That is not a pot but rather a rotary encoder. Adjustment in increments of 10mV.

Nice work Ross, but is it solid enough to work properly .... we await the first test. I have some brass bar left over, I might have a go at one myself.

I know; I'm famous for famous last words

Isn't that what Dr. Frankenstein said right before ....

If you take another look, I typed "digit," as in the traces that select the digits. Pins D1, D2, D3, and D4 from the Mostek chip. Sorry that I wasn't clear, but I'm glad I made you smile. Yes, using enameled wires to reconnect the leads is exactly what I intend to do, provided the display is working. I'm starting with the one that doesn't have a broken circuit board to take one variable out of the testing process. Have no fear. I am familiar with how to use my power supply.

I use the 24 hour system all the time Rich, and refer to UTC/GMT/ZULU time in international conference calls, though I don’t do many of those now. As Richard said maybe ex-military/airline/pilot/mariner, I am ex military. Tom

Maybe he's military?

remember on rechargeable watches their using different types of batteries and or capacitors at one time. This means the normal voltages the think of like from a silver cell do not apply yes the top of the page it has a nice description which I'm snipping out

Shipping to UK was (!) £2.11

Hi everyone, excited to learn more from you all. I am just getting started in this hobby, I have a small collection of modern watches but have recently been enjoying learning more about the restoration and repair of vintage pieces.

Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.

Page 31 in the manual states 1.3 V so that seems good! @watchweasol Where did you find the manual? Thanks!

Hi it looks good on the wrist , well done.

Hi. A normal watch runs on 1.55v anything below is suspect.

I'm afraid I have no experience with this watch, but I would try the same method as for any other movement having a date complication.

I love online shopping due to the convenience. I have learnt if "The Boss" says we'll just pop in here, expect to look at every item in the shop and if it's a shopping centre, visit every bloody shop! But yes, it does have its pitfalls.

As a final rinse, yes. Even a quick dip and swirl of a pallet fork will not harm the shellac, but use a puffer or heater to evaporate the ethanol quickly afterwards. Pure ethanol evaporates without a trace. As a final rinse it is great. As a cleaning fluid, probably not the most effective, but better than IPA. Not sure about meths, which is ethanol with additives, so only disadvantages as a cleaner or rinse as far as I can see. If you have been using IPA as a general cleaning fluid and you want to use ethanol instead, then keep the exposure times as short as possible.

I can asure You that this is a staff that needs riveting. Closing the hole usually leads to loosing the center. so the balance will probably be good out of true now. As You have nothing to loose, there is a simple way to solve the loose roller problem: use (small qantyty of) superglue or thread fixer.

I received the ESA 944.111 movement today from Germany. I successfully reassembled the watch with the new movement and everything is working perfectly. I realize that this is very basic work for those of you who have helped me with your comments but I have to say it was extremely rewarding to bring a 42 year old watch with sentimental value back to life after being broken for 19 years. I also have to say, it was not quite as straightforward as I imagined . As always I learned a lot so that it’ll be easier next time. On to the next project. Thanks to everyone for your help.

Red LEDs? that’ll be nice if you can get them working…

Methanol seems to be more volatile, evaporates fast and more toxic and very corrosive compared to both ethanol and isopropylalcohol. A much simpler structure of only one carbon atom, less bonded to its hydrogen. It is obtainable as almost pure methanol, not that you would want to use it considering how toxic it is. Methylated spirits or just pure ethanol could well be a better option to isopropylalcohol.

So-called "Digital transistors" are just transistors with appropriate resistors included in the package to allow them to be driven directly from digital logic ICs & microcontrollers etc. You definitely need a normal transistor for the Accutron.

Hello everyone . I am French. I return to my workbench after several years without opening a watch. So I need to get back up to speed with cleaning and repairing my watches. I don't have any luxury brand watches. Only inexpensive watches. I have a preference for Indian watches, particularly HMT, and for Russian watches. I hope to find some help here. For now I won't be very useful to the community but I hope that will change. So if among you there are HMT specialists, I will be happy to speak with them. Good day.

Hi all. I've been a minor collector of watches for many years and have been a member of TZ-UK since the dawn of time! More recently I have got into doing some (very) amateur fixes and mods to some of my cheapies. Current victim is cheap Chinese copy of a CWC G10 which I intend ultimately to fill with oil, but there are alterations I will need to make first and I have questions! I will post them up in the regular forum. Neil

The company was set up in the 1950s, once you receive it, it may have markings, if not we probably need to see the keyless works. The name on the dial isn't the movement manufacturer.

Hi I think you will find all the information you require in the attached pdf a pertaining to the Citizem. H461.pdf

pound of curiosity is this a radio control watch? According to Amazon it came into existence around 2012 and that would make it vintage four a quartz watch. The problem with that really complicated citizen watches would be no service information and no parts availability typically. in other words usually there really complicated watches they suggest sending it to the factory. otherwise for the normal rechargeable watches if you in find the service manual. Often times they would have a test point to check the battery voltage. Then you place it under bright light to charge it up more and see if the voltage gone up.

So after going through dozens of random pictures resulting from a Google search for "vintage chronograph movement", I may have a match. The Landeron 52 is 14.5 ligne= 32.6mm. Which also seems to match the proportions of the pictures I have. https://reference.grail-watch.com/movement/landeron-52/ What do you think? Did I get it right? Do you know anything about this movement?

PV usually have the voltage printed on them. Connect a multimeter to the leads, set to DC voltage and take the reading.

Measure the diameter if possible of what remains of the post and check that against the hole in the setting lever. If you are to attempt drilling out, drill undersize then gradually increase the hole with a smoothing broach, the post needs to be the same size as the original with a tight friction fit in the hole.The repair may last it may not, it is a repair to plastic after all. A hot weld of the joint would probably work better than an adhesive .

I agree, but as you have no prior experience, start with a large movement either the Unitas 6497 or the Unitas 6498. If you don't want to spend too much money, which is a good idea when you're new, there's a good Chinese clone (I've been told) of the 6497 named TY3600. https://www.cousinsuk.com/search?searchTerm=CHI3600M

If you intend to repair them yourself then have a go. If you are thinking of taking them to a watchmaker then the answer is no they are not worth it.

I would at least save that walking liberty half dollar out of the case, that's 90% silver.

They are cheap fashion watches, the pocket watches probably have a very cheap quartz movement in them, the wrist watch appears to be a chronograph, which if it actually is, is still probably not worth more than what a proper watchmaker would charge to change the battery.

Would need to see the movements to have much in the way of a clue.