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Yes you can. You have to thin the metal just in front of where the two halves of the tweezer are spot welded. About 2-3 cm length. The amount to grind off will be by trial and error and personal preference. I have some that are very light and some that are heavy.

You should remove the roller and continue riveting the staff. Use pin wice to hold the staff where the hairspring seat and test if the rim can be easuly turned.

I had to make a tweezer # 5 size but with a longer tip (1-3/4") in order to reach into a movement when assembling. #5 I had was too short, so I made one and am good with how it came out. Only thing is the original I used was a low cost $5 medical tweezer I had. It is very firm to squeeze and was wondering if there is any advice on a good way to soften the pressure necessary to squeeze it? PIc attached. Thanks, bob

I do not think that Pierce is a bumper style auto=matic, I wonder if it looks like this one ......

Hi from what Ali express are saying either it won’t get back to them or they don’t want it back so if you try to return it and it gets lost!!! You end up paying for it any way so best keep it and take the $5 discount of the next one. Not an ideal situation but you still have the oiler.

Schatz 8 day

their minor variations to this. Like for instance take a tiny piece of Rodico on the pivot of the staff hold the balance wheel an attempt to rotate the staff with your pin vice the pin vice is supposed to slip because yes the rivet really does have to be very secure if it rotates you'll see whatever you stuck on the end rotate.

You should be seeing an amplitude of 270 plus with the 0.95 x .12 x 400 spring, but, and this is a big but, if this movement hasn't been serviced in 10 to 20 plus years, which most watches of this type haven't been because it isn't cost effective, there may be some worn parts creating the drag through the wheel train

I dont have anything to open it with.

My advice would be - put this nice watch to one side, and practice, practice, practice on some cheap movements.

Yes I have 20 of them and they are usually better made but not always, the best and most reliable time keeper was made by the only French maker of torsion clocks, Claude Grivolas my one is 1908 but some had German plates due to a patent dispute they couldn’t use there own movements until the dispute had been settled in early 1908 , the round movements are fully Grivolas square movements are JUF or Hauck and maybe other German manufacturers Dell

Haha- so this is to my taste as well but it’s not Barcelona, more Magaluf someone is tarting up a bit, innit? …. Seriously folks, do we know make and or calibre?

I've got those bearings if you need a source

Hi most likely wear on the wheel. The jumper looks ok, was it like that when you removed the dial. What’s the movement make and calibre. Usually found under the balance or on the plates, Maybe able to get a service sheet.

Here you see how @nevenbekriev thinned the base of his home made tweezers:

The 99 cal was in the Ebel ATP and a black face dial model was made though the one you have isn't recognised. The case is not of the usual military style which would look heavier,nor the hands but these may have been changed at some time in its life and there are always exceptions to expected designs. The caseback may shed more light with markings and militaries are generally of a screwback with good water resistance of the time.

The disk pendulum with glass dome are the good old ones to go after.

Not the case with your watch, but as for the hairspring "breathing", I do like the Etachron system a lot. One can turn the stud so that the hairspring runs exactly in the center/middle of the regulator, touching either side equally. One can reduce the gap of the regulator so that the duration at which the balance wheel slows down gets if even shorter. Not having the Etachron, you have to manipulate the hairspring (and if required the distance between pin/boot) to achieve the same result / effect. Glad you found the cause of your problem

Yes, the balance staff rotates with the collet and the roller position changes. And whole truing and poising too.

when replacing balance staffs you have to make sure that the balance staff is properly riveted and doesn't have the ability to rotate. if your balance staff is able to rotate then everything else on the balance staff will also rotate depending upon how poorly the rivet is.

As you say, hard to tell looking at the video. It needs to be assessed in 3D from various angles. Anyway, it reminded me of this post which I have found useful. Probably a bit too elementary for most of you. Nevertheless...

OK, but did Uou prove this? It is important to know for sure, not only to guess. In the videos the hairspring seems not well centererd to the collet

I don't think that is possible, might be a good time to try your hand at silver leafing, CasKer Co. has some....I don't know if yours is round or not... https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/product10702.html Fancy Watch Crystal - Domed Silver TrimSED.24.0 $6.95 VIEW OPTIONSFancy Watch Crystals - Wide Silver TrimSE.24.0 $6.95 VIEW OPTIONSSapphire Watch Crystals SSAPH 0.95 Flat Silver TrimSSAPH.35.0 $40.00 VIEW OPTIONS

You seem to have posted 8 pictures the same, each one tells no more than the previous except what trousers you are wearing . Ebel was one of the brands used by the British MOD during WW2 ( ATP ) this looks military ? so it should have something decent inside.But we wont know that unless we can see it, this brand doesn't come up too often so will be interesting to see. The movement will give a date range to it's age, value is usually estimated, its only worth what one/some want to pay for it. Crack it open .

Welcome to the forum. Be careful with that one. Seems to have some luminous compound on dial and hands. A watch of that era may contain radium.

Before asking for help it is normal to post an introduction and tell us a little about yourself. There is no real value to that watch. People that collect Ebel might show an interest. I would say its from the 1950's.

There is nothing better then to have someone next to you at the bench. Getting your hands dirty is the best way. Books can only teach you so much. You dad has come across far more problems then what are in books. He can watch you and tell you how to go about putting the wheels in there respective places and the position the strike and chime warning wheels should be next to the fans, this so you have good warning with out lifting the hammers. Don't for get we can also help you. I love helping with clocks.

Bergeon Platax No. 2677 How to Guide.pdf Bergeon Platax No. 2677.pdf Background In the old days, before shock protection, I’m sure replacing balance staffs was one of the most common tasks for a watch repairer. They probably replaced several staffs every day. There are many ways to remove a balance staff. One very convenient and quick method is to use a Platax tool. However, this method is considered a destructive method by some repairers, meaning you can only replace the balance staff so many times before the hole in the centre of the balance wheel will become too wide. You can read a more about it here. I guess I would think twice or trice before using use a Platax tool on a Philippe Dufour balance. Anyway, for my standard ETA, Sellita, Unitas, Vostok, etc. balances I have no reservations about using a Platax tool. One dilemma with the Platax tool is that it has been discontinued by Bergeon (No. 2677). The offerings on eBay are few and far between, and as with everything else Bergeon, they are silly expensive. I would feel a bit embarrassed to let you know what I paid for my used copy which probably has seen hundreds if not thousands balance staffs in its life. Anyway, as with most everything else Bergeon, the quality of the tool is second to none, so I’m pretty sure I’d get my money back (if not more) should I decide to sell it in the future. That’s a major benefit with quality tools which makes it a lot easier to pull the trigger. So, how often do I expect to use this tool? Well, as all my watches so far have been equipped with shock protection and as I expect most future watches that I’ll be working on will be as well, the answer is, not very often. As a matter of fact, I expect it to be so rare that I might forget how to use my Platax tool when I need it the next time. For this reason, I decided to document my findings and that is what you’ll find in the attached PDF document. Do note that the document isn’t a tutorial, it is my personal notes, gathered from watching two YouTube videos (see below) and my own thinking and experimenting. For this reason, it is possible I got something backwards. If so, please let me know!

I can't open it.