Leaderboard

Eyup matey. How you doin ?. A few things to discuss here. As Nucejoe says the coil seems to look ok on its own with no coning. You say it looks slanted but looking at the photo this maybe because the weight of the stud is pulling one side down. I think you need to foget your app for the adjustment, for the time being and just try a visual check that the stud arm can alter the beat error. You should be noticing that the balance wheel is moving, watch the position of a spoke of the wheel change. Or better still if you can sight down between the center of the escape wheel and the banking pins the impulse jewel should follow through as a straight line when the beat error is getting close. This is easier done without the train wheels installed. It is also good practice on vintage movements where there is no adjustment arm and the beat error has to be done with adjustment of the collet. When the watch is in beat the watch should start up with minimal wind providing everything else is ok. When there is a certain amount of beat error the balance generally requires some encouragement to get going and depending on other factors will also not want to continue if the error is very poor. Try a visual mate first then you can go from there. Technology is not always what we want it to be, we should rely on ourselves as well to see what is going on. No mate not yet. Make this a last resort when you ruled out everything else. HS manipulation is best to practise on something scrap first.

I finally had time and the spares to fix my Tudor project. It is the first watch I have ever done that had major work needed. I would like to thank everyone on this forum for their dedicated posts I scrolled through many to update my knowledge for this one. From using vinigar to desolve the broken stem from the crown to the scary KIF springs that where very intimidating to me as I had never seen these before. This one has been rebuild without even dropping one screw as I took on Nickelsilvers tweezers advice.

Given you probably want to give the movement a clean and service, and given the existing paint damage around the hands, then I'd remove the hands so you can remove the dial. With black acrylic paint (water based) and a small paint brush you could then try and touch in the worst of the missing paint before using a water based varnish to provide a stabilising and protective layer. I'm talking about a spray can of water based varnish here unless you own an airbrush to do this. And personally I'd opt for a satin finish.

No they dont. Which is a shame. But the value of a lady's equivalent of the mans watch is usually less than a quarter.

I love Kalle Slaap (or however you spell his name)! Thank you!

Great project Tony and great achievement !

Interesting. Another movement maker I didn't know about. -> http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Prim_68_3 They are still around apparently. -> https://www.prim.cz/our-history Furthermore they seem to do some interesting watches with their own in house movements. https://www.prim.cz/watches?filter[tags_0][]=1

Barrel is suppose to turn but " real slow" like three turns in 24hrs, so seeing it turn means its disengaged and power is not transmitted into the train, turn every gear of the train the , oscilator should oscilate at some point.

Unlikely. Pretty much any "Faulex" will have a fake crown. There is probably a factory in China dedicated solely to making fake Rolex crowns.

Shouldn't be hard to find the parts you need. There's plenty of cheap Felsa movements, and parts, on ebay.

I will do. At a brief glance some of them look like total shite. I did get a bit carried away on sunday night, i had money burning a hole in my pocket. I'm hoping the stock of around 1000 crystals some staffs and stems and the few vintage tools ive bought are a much better buy.

My amusement is always that newbies remove their balance wheels and show us pictures and ask what the problem is. Well first problem is easy the balance wheel out of the watch doesn't have a problem the problem is in the watch. So the first problem is the balance wheel has to go back into the watch because that is where I was looking for specific things that I can't see if the balance wheel is out of the watch. Which is also why have the quote above you can't really tell how it's bent especially at the stud unless you're in the watch because the stud is heavy it typically is being pulled down it makes the hairspring look out of flat which it may or may not be. If you are checking the balance wheel for flatness out of the watch you would place it in a true in caliper where you can spin it and you can look at specific things which you would probably never see anyway so it's best to put it back in the watch where the problem is a problem that I still need a picture looking straight down but in the absence of that it did give me a clue about something with the picture you have so that works out. You have a four Arm balance wheel and The roller jewel is on the other side someplace probably in alignment with one of the arms which is really good for you. Because when you put it back into the watch with no power you can push on your stockholder and the arm which is closest to the pallet fork pivots jewel should move back and forth to visually put this watch in alignment you just need the push the stud holder until the arm providing that's where the roller jewel is in alignment with over the pivot for the pallet fork and you will be in alignment in other words you will be in beat versus trying to use your Which is a waste of time. Oh other problem with your Is your running insanely fast could be a regulation issue or probably they hairspring is touching something it's not supposed. Unless you have somebody else learning watch repair since you're the person doing it that means you're the person who has to fix the problem. But first you have to figure out what the problem is before you can fix its. Then working on hairspring is is something you need to practice with so ideally you should have some practice sheep watches that you're not trying to fix where you can practice bending the hairspring and learning how to bend it back. Typically practicing on a watch that you're trying to repair when you have no experience at all well hopefully get a balance complete but that also is a problem on vintage Seiko watches so you need to practice some place first

Hi Joe, here's a video................

As said, a notch is not mandatory. One need proper tools and technique to open these, then a case press to close them back.

Welcome to the forum @Polco I'm getting started with clocks. Still things that tick and keep time though.

So after my booboo and ordering the wrong size mainspring winder I thought I would pass the time being creative and not sat infront of TV waiting for the post man to deliver my goods. so I've been on my woodworking lathe making these pens

The eBay translator is well known for getting it wrong, especially when translating Indian (South Asian as they seem to be called nowadays) to English. When the seller writes 'Its a rusty Brocken scratched to hell wreck the translator converts it to never been worn mint condition

Speaking of streaming (something that can't easily or reliably be done on my internet connection), I used to do a fair bit of it. These days (owing in part to the aforementioned lack of communications infrastructure), my music is 100% vinyl. 6-8 hours a day playing in the background, just rolling through my entire collection. I'm also a software engineer, and spend too much time in front of a computer screen for my eyes, and glasses are a fact of life. I've found that the ~20 minute/side is the perfect interval to get up from whatever eye intensive thing I'm doing to give myself a break. I know the topic is re: music, but the form factor plays a part as well. Also, hi-fi audio has a lot of mental overlap with horology, and I've got a tube pre-amp project on the back burner... Well, it's been a bit more in the front over the last few days, but it's a relatively low priority due to the same desk hog project that's keeping the watches in the drawer.