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i would have cheeted. epoxy this one ; do it right nex time. vin

I ended up taking the barrel and ratchet-wheel screw from the "parts movement" that you found on eBay. I also purchased that NOS 1790, but the movements in these watches are the larger 1692. Still gives me a complete unused movement for parts. Attaching some images - not sure how this is going to be formatted in the post (perhaps should have inserted using links). But in the order that I think they will be in: 1) The newer movement fully serviced with the new barrel and ratchet-wheel screw. 2) A look at the dial before remounting in to the case. 3) Look from the rear - all mounted with the back off. 4) From the rear - with the back on. 5) The parts removed (barrel assembly complete with broken off screw head). 6) The two watches side by side. 7) My great uncle's watch from the rear with the original strap mounted (this strap came on the one I just acquired). 8) My great uncle's watch from the top in the correct original box (also came with the watch I recently acquired).

what ever gets the job done.

Another Setback. I thought I would try securing the balance by restating it, but I left the roller table on and thought it would hold up to the pounding. I thought wrong. The roller table is made of brass and simply crushed. Ahhhhhh, should have taken it off prior to re-riveting the balance. Now I need another roller table or simply call this a scrap movement. Good news is I got it for free. “Should have simply JB Welded the balance back on” and I know, not normally acceptable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Diamond plate-2000 grit minimum Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

One other thing that occurs to me. Fit the setting lever (443) and the screw (5443) *BEFORE* you fit the stem and crown. Once you have it fitted, screw the screw right down, then back off by about 2 1/2 turns, then fit the stem under the tab that operates the lever and position it correctly. With the crown/stem in position, screw the screw back down till finger tight, and prove the lever/crown/stem is operating correctly, then tighten the screw completely. Attempting to fit the setting lever, crown/stem and screw all at the same time is a much more difficult (and unnecessary) task.

Which part is causing the issue? Model 24 Service manual attached. 24.pdf

There is one itsy-bitsy problem with the picture though? It appears to be the balance wheel isn't in the watch? Yes I know when it's in the watch it's really really hard to see it's easier to see if it's out of the watch but if it's rubbing touching bumping and causing an issue that is usually in the watch not when it's out of the watch. So the problem occurs in the watch that is where you need to look at it. Out of the watch the balance wheel is not in its alignment with both pivots it usually can lean a little bit. So ideally when you're looking at a problem like this you should be looking at it in the watch for the most part.

I , too, like unitas movements for reasons you mention, better yet are the larger size ones that came in pocket watches, good set mechs too.

Before strip down, I would give it a full manual wind and make a record of how long it runs on bench. Expectedly runs more than 30hrs, the question is how much longer. Repeat the same with the movement out of the case, next raise the seconds hand and repeat, repeat by removing the remaining hands and the dial plate, day disk.....continue with min train bridge with seconds hand put back on. You are eliminating possible faults as you strip the movement down. The game is to find the point movement quits stopping at, then you have found the location of the fault. This approach is worth mastering and useful particularely for cases when complete strip down is not on the agenda. Fault finding as you strip the movement down makes sense, to strip down, clean reassemble oil and face the fault is the shoot first ask question later stralogy. As for amplitude, I always apply diesel fuel or kerosene to escape teeth and observe the little machine fly. This usually eliminates the, suspect bent pivot story. Best Regards joe

Probably a shock protection jewel (guessing Incabloc for Omega) that shifted with a shock and didn't reseat correctly. A hairspring hangup would almost certainly have more drastic timing results. That it stops at that specific area on the seconds hand could be a slightly damaged tooth, that normally wouldn't show up but with the distress at the balance might be more sensitive.