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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/05/19 in all areas

  1. With the indispensable help from my buddy J Trenalone on the West coast, this ~80 year old monopusher chronograph is back in working order. There were a multitude of issues getting this working. The balance staff, escape wheel and mainspring all gave their share of headaches. I also have to mention that I bought TWO new mainsprings from Cousins that broke one after another when tested. The mainsprings are listed as GR5032 and are supposed to be correct for the Landeron cal 2, the cost 11.80 each and after shipping £22.64. I think they were no good to begin with because of age. I finally had to buy one from Borel using the measurements form the original, which had set and needed to be changed. Finally it has come together. I you try to find these, you'll quickly discover they are difficult to come by. Its someone else's watch, and I appreciate the opportunity to work on this type of early column wheel chronograph J
    1 point
  2. Are you pegging your jewels? They really need to be spotlessly clean. In particular do the hole jewels for the pallet fork, and push the fork end (the slot) into brand new pithwood a few times. Check that no particules clung to it too. Roller jewel should be spotless. Many (most) folks, even experienced professionals, often go for the mainspring when the problem is elsewhere. Yes, the barrel really does need to be in good order and clean but in my experience on modern pieces if the spring looks good and the barrel isn't eaten up where it rides the arbor or the wall (autos) amplitude worries come from other places. In a 2892 there's kinda "one spring", but on other older calibers it's usually possible to put a stronger spring in. It's a bad practice if it's compensating other correctable faults. One small possibility in your case is the lubrication you've added to the barrel is letting it slip too much. Nonetheless I'd expect more amplitude especially after just winding up. You need a braking grease for the barrel wall, and theoretically no lube on tbe spring as its teflon coated.
    1 point
  3. The type of speed controller you need depends on the power rating (wattage) and type of motor you are using ("universal" brushed, vs brushless etc). Mostly the motors used are similar to sewing machine motors, so you might get away with using the sort of foot pedal speed controller that is used for sewing machines.
    1 point
  4. I have dealed with some of those GMT movements and from my little experience : - place stem in "hour setting" position - press really gently on the release button (use the larger screwdriver that you can put there ... 1.5mm should do) - turn gently (about 1 °) back and forth while gently pressing until it comes out What we must consider is that DG3804B is (as far as I know) about just a DG2813 with a GMT function added ... so very low manufacturing quality and they are "hit or miss". I have one which is a workhorse (almost) keeps pretty good time and never caused me any issue, and 2 which were just "shitty movements" until I decided to service them (long journey and much less easy than playing with an ETA). I'm not certain that using an extension could be a good idea as the metal used for the wheels is not good so you'd better use the release button if you ever want to get the stem out ... just proceed really gently.
    1 point
  5. Got my new Hamilton GMT Traveller 2. Beautiful watch with an ETA 2893-2 Movement. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  6. If you can find a place that sells them cheaply let me know. I just recently spent £10.95 to buy a pack of 3 jewels for a pocket watch I'm repairing, but they are friction fit not rubbed in. I just recently purchased a lot of moment parts with one of the main reason being I can salvage the jewels to use for future repairs, in other movements.
    1 point
  7. Charge whatever your shop rate is. Time is money. From the time you sat down , until the time you buttoned it up had to take at least one half hour.
    1 point
  8. Not a chance I'll answer that one. I'm strictly an amateur. Suffice it to say that I didn't work for free prior to my retirement. I wouldn't expect anyone else to either. You have costs to cover and let's face it, without your professional service, this watch would still be a non-working paper weight.
    1 point
  9. Every once in awhile you get an easy one. Hopefully, it will help make up for a repair that takes way too much time for the amount you can charge the customer. Nice watch btw.
    1 point
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