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You might get away with a pair (or two pairs) of round nosed pliers, with small "noses", something like this. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/small-round-nose-BAIL-MAKING-jewellery-pliers-3-6mm-5-6mm-jaws-bsis-bl-sm/222883655206?hash=item33e4e6ae26:g:h2gAAOSwqu1aqlSw:rk:18:pf:0 Bending tempered steel is always a bit of a hit and miss affair, so I would be tempted to fit the spring in the barrel and see if you can catch the spring with the arbor and then press the arbor in to the hole, it may not need any bending at all.

Today i finally finished my restoring project, an Elma from the past, brougt back to life Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If it's an ETA 2836-2 based ORIS movement then as far as I can ascertain this will apply to either the calibre 644 or 690. [I suspect the former as the latter seems to have an additional complication for a second time zone as a further sub dial which you do not mention]. Like you however I've drawn a blank finding out any information / parts for this calibre . The reason I'm replying is in case, if you agree with the above, another forum member has any further knowledge on the calibre.

I don't know if the hole end is more tempered than the rest of the spring, but I've never had trouble bending it, or have one break.

Basically what they have done is increase their charges to cover the costs they incur by using a credit card. Then give you 2.5% back if you use a debit card. Sylvia Rook from the Chartered Trading Standards Institute said was "no different" to a card surcharge. This is not the only company to use back door methods to retain their finances. I personally refrain from using a debit card on line. Bank transfer is probably the way to go although you still are in effect paying the 2.5% surcharge. I had an altercation with a local auction house soon after the ruling came in in January last year. I left the goods I had bid on and said "I'm afraid you will have to sell these items again" They billed me by post on two occasions but I just returned the invoices "Less 2.5%...Please amend" Needless to say I didn't pay and never got the goods.

I suspect the stem is unique to the 2809. A look on http://www.windingstems.com gives the Ronda number for the 2809 stem as 1765. A 'reverse lookup' on this Ronda number then just throws up the Vosotk / Wostok. Cousins however have the stem listed; and there may be other suppliers.

Hi Thank you both for getting back to me so soon. I think that I am getting the forum and the lessons confused. The WRT forum works just fine and, since I've never registered for the lessons, it isn't surprising that my password doesn't work; I don't have one for the lessons. Sorry for the confusion. Dave

I am affraid the moisture have already taken it's toll and all over the movement too. I would have taken and do now, take the watch to service centers. Moisture ruins lubricants. In general, as soon as the moisture appears, the dial should be dealt with. Placing the watch under direct sun light or expose to other very mild heat, also taking the movement out to submerge in lighter fluid and blow dry helps reduce the damage, before you urgently get the watch to service man. There are some treatment to somewhat clean the dial. Depending on the value of the watch, the job should be entrusted solely to professionals. Do not attepmt yourself. Regards joe

It would require a complete new balance assembly and regulator. It's my understanding that Seiko will do this for you. If your SKX007J isn't a counterfeit, then there's little chance of you having the "B" version as almost all of that production was from SII's Singapore manufacturing facility. Yours will likely say made in the Philippines, possibly Malaysia. Japan regards both as part of the JDM. One of the reasons why J versions of the SKX007 began commanding a higher price was the point of manufacture for the movement. I've seen a few J versions with a 7S36 movement also. More than likely it was as a result of higher demand than could be supplied with 7S26 movements for a short while.

If you are intent on trying it, I will post pictures to show you how as walkthrough. You will be removing/repositioning the roller on staff. This should give you an idea. Remove the ballance. Remove the HS. Grip the roller in your pin holder, slightly rotate it clock-anticlock to loosen the roller off of staff. Reposition the roller prependiculare to spokes, tap to tighten the roller on the spokes. Reinstall the HS so the stud is at 90 degree angle with impulse pin.

The roller table. Sorry, on phone, so hard to bring up an image. It's what's on the balance staff and holds the roller jewel. In 99.99% of cases (and clearly in yours) the roller jewel should be at 90 degrees to the balance arms. They should be at 90 degrees to the fork (line from escapeme wheel pivot jewel to balance pivot jewel).

As I recall, you loosen slightly the circled screw, then press on the yellow part (that's the set lever) and it should come out.

I love Russian watches. I would love to see Mark do a tear-down on a Vostok movement like he did recently with the Chinese clone 2824.