Leaderboard

As StuartBaker104 pointed out a similar thread seems to be going on at two places. I usually use tweezers to unwind the two hole nut in these movements, but for those who isn't comfortable to do so I just tried out another solution. Since these nuts appear in movements of different ligne, the distance between the holes will differ. It probably will do between manufacturers too. The simple solution is to buy a small divider and modify the tips, make the tips flat instead of pointy. This will make them less likely to slipp. Now you have a tool like "one size fits all".

Today I was following the thread with a question about a locking nut for the crown wheel, since I already popped out the movement from the case I decided to take some shots of the adventure when servicing it and make my usual PDF.. Remontoir Cylindre 10 Rubis.pdf

... now why didn't I think of that. By far and away the best suggestion. Give that man a medal at once.

Now need to replace the jewel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Here they are Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I now have more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hello All, Just staying out of trouble today with some seikos, that were purchased for parts from a vendor in The Netherlands.Starting with the one one the left, the movement was rusted beyond practical repair. I replaced it with an NOS Seth Thomas branded 7009 The one in the center was in similar condition. Not a thing is matching on this one, the case and the back don't match for one thing.The hands and movement were pirated out of westclox automatic with a ghastly chrome case .it was a utc branded 7009 equivalent, 7005 calendar parts were swapped over so movement could work with the dial and case. Totally Franken, but the watch was a lost cause when I got it.The results I think are pretty good. The one on the right was a relatively unmolested 6109 , except for the fact that the previous owner had glued some luminous material to the indexes.It looked awful, some of the residue is still on the dial. The problem with them all, and the two remaining on my bench was gasketing, they were improperly sealed and all suffered to some degree from water , most likely sweat intrusion. I will have to look into proper gaskets for them. Thanks for looking. YD

Some people tell me I have a screw loose. My X wife for one.

If you are de-magging a whole movement then try and do it running as not only are both ends of the H/S restrained from the motive influence of the field but the spring itself is moving independently of the magnetic field, further enhancing the efficacy of the method.

Glad I helped. To give full credit I was told this by a lecturer at one of my night classes at the watch and clock school I attend. I have demagnatised whole watches successfully before, but only using an expensive Greiner Magnomatic Demagnetiser unit that has built in decay, so you don't need to move it away at my watch school, never on my cheap Chinese demag. Also when the hairspring is in place both ends of the spring are restrained which won't completely stop the vibration, but will limit it. I also agree that the full meter is important, I basically move it as far away as I can stretch my arm You can see the same thing happen with tweezers if you try to demag them by only holding the end and leaving them open, they will vibrate in the magnetic field and won't demag properly, but will if you hold them closed and slowly move them away as you say up to a meter. I would love to have the demag unit that is at my school, but as they cost £850 new I can see me staying with my $5 Chinese unit for a while yet.

I enjoy turning staffs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro