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This watchmaker has been plying his trade for many years, in this same spot, at the city market, in Gingoog, Mindanao. That is, since long before one would have thought to advertise batteries on ones window. How do you feel about your workshop now? I love mine :-)

Nice! Looks like a micrometer head. If it's Swiss, it'll be in MM. If it's American, it'll be in Inches. You can just put an indicator against the tailstock and bring it in one "click" (although it probably doesn't actually click) at a time and compare the scale on the barrel to the indicator reading. 25.4mm to the inch exactly.

Expired listings are being handled differently now. If you look carefully, there is a blue bar at the top, and towards the left the word "listing" is actually a link to the original listing. Pain in the patootie, but you can still get there.

Just put a collet in with a piece of brass (or anything with a smooth surface), take a measurement to your tailstock, turn 10 "clicks" on the dial, measure the difference, divide by 10 = viola you have your scale!I have never seen this feature - would be very nice to have!

Mine looks exactly like Marks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hi old hippy Apologies for not replying sooner but have been so busy I have not been near the watch until today. It is a tiny part with not much to tighten like you said. I didn't have a punch or pair of pliers small enough to get in on the stem to deform it slightly to improve the friction fit so thought outside of the box and used pair of nail clippers. Not the go to for watch makers or repairers I am sure but none the less as an engineer I like to think of solutions to problems. I gently held the inside of the pinion and found the original spot where the pinion tube had been deformed during manufacture and gently set the cutting edges of the nailclippers on the same spot and squeezed ever so gently. I refitted the pinion to the watch and ………………. The friction to adjust the time has greatly improved and the watch hour and minute hands are now moving as they should so success. Thank you ever so much for all your help and a big thank you to everyone who took the time to read and also those who replied to my post. Andy

I have these as well and I think they are grate .....

A professional dial restorer is probably the way to go. You'll find painting numbers on neatly nigh on impossible. I have done this for small repair areas but painting on so may numbers neatly by hand won't give good results. If you're determined to have a go yourself the only other technique I could suggest is printing your own decals. If you made model kits as a child (or even as an adult!) then you'll be familiar with the decals you put in water until they come away from their backing and then you carefully apply to the correct place on the model. Well you can get waterslide decal paper which you print your design on from a standard printer to do the same. Assuming you can match the font and have access to some kind of program on your computer where you can layout the numbers in the circular pattern required and to the right scale for printing then this is a DIY option.

Pad printing?

Well that really stinks! Bergeon products are way over priced & not the quality they were! I myself don't own a canon pinion remover because I work on Pocket watches. Will they refund your money?

I had the same issue. The new bergeon canon pinion mover tool does not work with the smaller pinions. Really annoying considering the price. Looking at the vintage versions of this tool they close to a finer setting. Maybe there now made in India !!!

Whilst on the subject of Bulova divers, here's my contribution from 1979.

Not correct. The Ingersoll Navigator rechargeable watch that the OP describes is just that.... rechargeable. It comes with a plastic stand which has a coil embedded in it and plugs into a power supply, recharging the watch by electromagnetic induction. I couldn't say whether or not the battery that the OP has is original to the watch, but the watch most certainly does need a rechargeable battery.

We don't have a technical data sheet for the Sony battery but on the back we do see it's a Rechargeable lithium-ion battery. The LIR1620 Is also a lithium ion rechargeable battery with a data sheet mentioned above found at the link below. Non-rechargeable lithium batteries are magnesium dioxide-based. So both are lithium batteries different battery chemistry means different voltages and different characteristics. Non-rechargeable batteries typically do not like to go into the circuits were there being charged bad things usually happen. https://www.powerstream.com/p/Lir1620.pdf