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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/15/18 in all areas

  1. Here is my cat "Lew" helping me adjust a pocket watch and adding a hair to places one should never be.
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  2. Omega "Dirty Dozen ".......
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  3. Agree with John but considering the 2824 isn't, after all, a cheap mov.t I would recommend to use exactly what ETA recommends. I suppose that's 9010 on all jewels but pallet stones, where 941 should be used. And don't oil pallet fork pivots. That will maximize amplitude & durability, for a total of GBP 30 before VAT it won't break the bank.
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  4. Topic moved, as it has no question. JD, if you make these a little more detailed with step-to-step pics and descriptions I'll be happy to have them in "walk-throughts".
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  5. So exactly what you're describing is what other people have described lubrication goes bad superfast. Easy way to find out is take the watch apart and clean it again and find another oil. So as a beginner the cost of watch oil is astronomically expensive. Do a search on this message board and you'll find a lot of unhappy people over the cost of watch oil. On the other hand a little tiny bottle will last you for years. Then there really is not a universal watch oil good for everything. But knowing that it's not ideal but it will work you could go for a bottle of Moebius Synta-Visco-Lube (9020) Watch Oil. It's synthetic it has a very long life it's a little heavy for some of the balance and escapement but it will work.
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  6. Funny handshake stuff is very collectable.
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  7. So I found a parts list at least it confirms that it's a newer spring with bridal attached. Then bestfit online doesn't have a mainspring at all? It does have other parts like the barrel listed but not with the mainspring. Then it does confirm and agree with the tech sheet that the TIS 28.5R-21 Is the base model for the TIS 28.5R-621. Then the physical bestfit book gives the mainspring as a WA80 3 1/2 x 11 x 10 1/2. So if I do the calculations for length comes out to 266.70 mm to add to your mystery. Tissot 28.5R-21 Part Sheet.pdf
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  8. Wearing a Fortis 'True-line' this Sunday. It's an automatic with an ETA 2452 inside. Bought it cheap a few years back as it was not running, a service and it's running fine. It had a generic crown which I swapped out for a used original I had around. It has shrouded lugs which is a nice design feature and with the date at 1 o'clock it's quite a unique watch. Foetus is a brand rich in historynd their recent models are quite ice but is sad that they had to declare bankruptcy last year.. Hope they make it through. Anilv
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  9. Many, if not most of us buy from Cousins UK. But in some case you can find the same (Chinese) item for cheaper on Ebay or Aliexpress.
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  10. I recently had a similar issue. I re-cleaned the hair spring and the problem went away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  11. Lucky you it's a 25-66 movement. The second hand wheel is probably broken. But you could still find those wheels pretty easy. They are often broken. Either rust or damage. They are pretty thin and break easily.
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  12. This is how I do it: - -With the tapered brass pin removed, reassemble the stud into the balance cock and secure gently with the screw. - Install the balance wheel complete with the hairspring onto the jewel in the base plate. - lower the cock into position, lining up the pivots and install the screws The balance will now be free to rotate un-tethered by the hair spring, but try to avoid this, as damage can occur to the free end of the hairspring. Now, carefully rotate the balance wheel so that the free end of the hairspring travels towards its home-to-be in the stud hole. If all is lined up correctly, the free end of the hair will now go straight into the stud hole, like threading a needle. Do not try to move the free end of the hairspring with tweezers if its off the target. Its hard work, and ends in tears. Instead, rotate the balance backwards, thus moving the free end of the spring away from the stud and creating yourself some working space. Gently tweak with tweezers. rotate the balance wheel forwards again and repeat process until that hairspring threads itself through the stud with your eyes shut. Now, with the spring engaged so that its just starting to show on the other side of the stud hole, you can now reinsert the brass taper pin and lock the hairspring to the stud. Note that due to the hairspring now being slightly shorter than before, and all other things remaining the same, in theory the oscillation (vibration) rate will be faster so you will need to regulate the watch again. Also, the roller jewel will be slightly off center position (watch out of beat). Does your watch have beat adjustment? If not and you are really trying to perfect the movement, then you need to tweak the hairspring hub on the balance staff. Mark Lovic beautifully describes this in a video on here - but I cannot find the link just now. Can someone assist please? I hope this helps?
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