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Often someone has a problem with a watch and after searching the internet, are fortunate to come across this forum. And after a reply are never heard of again and no feedback given as to the outcome. Then we have the individual, after the purchase of a hammer and chisel, usually of Chinese manufacture, believe they can undertake repairs and servicing. The general rule of thumb to be competent, would of had served under an experienced watchmaker for 6 years and then had a further 9 years practical experience, to be "Competent " There are professional people on the forum prepared to help and also talented amateurs. Then you have tinkerers such as myself, who have some successes and also failures but not before a lot of heartache. To try and help you, the guys on the forum will need to know specifically what you've done and where. Also lots of close up pictures of the movement. In the absence of this, the best advice I can give is to locate a reputable watch repairer. Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

As wheels go, its probably one of the easier ones to do as there is no crossing out of the spokes, although I would need to make a square hole reamer and get the correct profile cutter. I've already got a small mill and dividing head, so making the wheel is definitely possible, but not something I was planning attempting for a while yet.

Very big thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

There was an interesting video on Youtube on knurling using a standard thread tap mounted in a lathe, the item to be knurled was attached vertically and allowed to spin freely, then was advanced onto the turning tap slowly, the cutting edges of the tap both cutting and turning the piece at the same time. I'll try to find the link and post it.

To let it down I just put on thick leather gloves and held my thumb against the winding wheel, released the click and let the wheel turn slowly against the friction of the glove. I did this as I could not see any other way to do it as you need to remove the movement from the case to get to the click and the winding wheel stays with the case. I didn't really like doing it this way, but could see no other way. I also agree with what oldhippy is saying

Your hairspring is distorted, it should be a smooth curve from the stud to the regulator pins. It's also not centered due to the distortion, in this photo it's shifted towards the lower left, assuming the pivot is in the jewel. Have a look at this video.

You are, VERY MUCH SO !!!! [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Trust me on this one. OP is a beginner and doesn't have the eye trained enough to tell if balance is swinging good. Facts: When a machine can't detect a steady amplitude, all other values can be discarded. Machines that can pick a signal before work, will pick it again after. Magnetization can cause timing issues, not lack of amplitude and crazy beat errors.

The thing is, for the OP it was measuring fine before, but not after. Basic logic says, blame the mov.t not the instrument.

Here is another document that can help us understand what we are trying to register. http://www.iaeng.org/publication/WCE2007/WCE2007_pp624-629.pdf

My advice is buy another watch to use, and put that one to one side for now. Get Donald De Carle's book Practical Watch Repairing, and some old watches for £1 or so each, and try taking them apart after reading the first bit of the book. It's quite funny. Friends see the book, a few screwdrivers, hammers etc, and watches in pieces, and immediately start offering you their family heirlooms to repair, saying they don't trust the high street expert! lol.

I put more info on the stand and holder on this thread:

You should never remove the balance and pallets and let a movement just run down. It can cause any amount of damage.

So on paper the plan is outstanding except unfortunately I speak from experience with mean time screws. Mean time screws are interesting the threads have been designed so that the screw can be adjusted in and out and it stays wherever you leave it. But those are really tiny threads in brass and there's a limit of how much adjustment you could do. Plus we don't know the past history of how much adjustment other then they don't appear to be correct. So a modification of the plan to minimize screwing the screws too much. Otherwise you end up with loose meantime screws. So rather than going all the way in and coming out were only going to go in. We're not going to worry about whether they're in the right place or try to correct for poise because you can end up chasing your tail if you try to play with the screws without statically poising first. So first put the regulator at zero and see what it's doing on the timing machine. Then one full turn in of the mean time screws on the arm . Then one full turn of one Pair of screws isn't going to To be enough but you can use that as a gauge. To understand the effect of the mean time screws and timing I'm attaching a Hamilton PDF. You'll notice that they prefer to adjust all of the mean time screws this way the weight is evenly distributed. But I wouldn't worry about that for now if it all. Start with a pair see what happens more than likely it will be all the screws at least one turn they go to fractional turns when you're getting close and finally the regulator. Hamilton tech_note_on_regulation.pdf

Right now it looks like the best route is to turn the two main meantime screws (at the ends of the arms) all the way in and check the rate. They definitely don't appear to be equal anyway, and you're going to end up chasing your tail on the hairspring issue. Turn them out equally in small increments to get it close, then use the regulator for the final adjustment. One step at a time. This watch wasn't designed as a tight tolerance movement anyway, so I'd focus on the timing screws to start with. If after that the regulator doesn't function correctly then I'd tinker with the pins.

Problem solved. Just carefully pushed down on the teeth with the arbor steady on the bench and it opened.