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Hey Guys, First of all I wanted to thank you again for All your help and advices. So I finally managed to take some time and work on the faulty project. Following the advices I disassembled the balance assembly, passed everything on the ultrasonic and put it back together. It took me a longtime and I was loosing patience at the end. Mostly because it was my first time tearing down the balance. I followed the videos on how to deal with the hairspring by Mark L. As an introduction and they helped me a lot. I believe my work can be improved by using a better magnification (which I will be looking for) but it is not bad for a first time. The watch is assembled and running.... Now I will wear it and see how it runs. Not having a timegrapher I am not able to verify its accuracy but I will keep comparing with my other watches. At the same time I was able to do the same for another project : a 7005 which was in an awful state when I got it. Scrap movement to study.... But I managed to get it running again which makes me very happy. (Dial was so rusty that cleaning it meant taking out all original marks) it will become my first experimental painting project... Hopefully in a near future. I learned a lot! David Sent from my Mi Note 3 using Tapatalk

hello my name is T I am a beginner in the watch repair field small amount of experience, Would like to make it my business have been a master jeweler for 20 years pre fab manufacture but would like to explore the watch repair business I enjoy building. have done the lesson 1 and 2 and would like to continue with the advance course and videos any advice would be helpful as I am stumbling around the site I think this guy Marc Lovick is a great teacher .. just need to know how to get around this actually took me about a week to get this far. thanks I look forward to a reply T

Hey Deggsie... I'll check out the watch you just tell me about. Thanks for the advice. I think I see what you are talking about when talking about the 700, it just helped me to dive into it and start my way, break the glass. I will be a bit more confident when working in another movement. Looking maybe on getting a 6497 or a 2428 to practice on. Anyways. Step by step. And yes I think that was the reason a contaminated jewel or end stone. Something I will be looking at on my next projects. (And thanks for the proposition for the dial I'll let you know :-) ) David Sent from my Mi Note 3 using Tapatalk

4 looks like the staking stump used for removing rollers from a 2 arm balance wheel. Maybe it's to hold a balance securely?

Old school watch repairers would mark the inside of the case with a number, most say it refered to a job number, like an invoice number. They kept paper records of the jobs done and used this number to match things up. There was no standard, each person used their own system so unless you had the right records of the right repair person, deciphering the numbers is virtually impossible. The best indication the numbers DO give is the number of times the watch was serviced, usually the more the better.

Job numbers from the watch repair person? Don't look like dates to my untrained eye. The slash could be a symbol for the type of work that was done (slash = full service, for example)

ETA bought Unitas many years ago, but I can't find details on when. So the "correct name" depends by the piece age. Like Valjoux, Peseux, etc.

If the small price difference is not important to you, my recommendation would be for the original Swiss mov.t (Unitas), Seagull grades their mov.t, and the cheapest ones are prone that nasty problems. read: http://www.asian-watches.com/2016/04/a-warning-about-seagull-st-3600-vs-eta.html

My suggestion is to go with the ETA 6497. Aside from esthetic appeal of the ETA, It is considerably easier to work with Incabloc over KIF springs. KIF are easy to break, and also become unhinged and fly away quite easily. J

While I'm not familiar with that movement, most of the quartz watches that I've seen will stop running if the stem is pulled out to set the hands. But if you've already replaced the stem, it locks into the movement properly, and the battery checks out, then it's probably not an easy fix. You might try blowing out the movement with a can of compressed air, like the type used to clean electronics, like computers, keyboards, etc. From what I understand, fine hairs and dust can easily stop a quartz movement. If it was running before you removed the stem, and you were careful when you removed it, I don't know what you could have done. But, as I said before, there's a lot going on in that watch. I know it's an expensive movement/watch. Best of luck.

Its a fake and its crap.

The watch may be authentic vintage but the dial is reprinted. Bulgarian sellers have found that is appealing to the naive buyer so the place all kinds of cheesy images like Che Guevara playing darts with Fidel. There is no IP violation or counterfeiting, so you can complain as much as you want but Ebay will not remove listing.

It's just market forces no different than pocket watches stripped of their movements & the cases sold for scrap. Look in the bay there are hundreds of movements for sale with no cases.

Well, what the OP is telling us here is that this is not a genuine watch, but a Chinese reproduction.