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Oh, feel a bit silly now. I hadn’t fitted the jewel plate... now it looks much better

lol, before you take a hammer to it, carefully measure it and draw it....if hammering does scrap it, you'll have what you need to get some quotes. I don't know what is not shown on the rest of it, presumably just a cross drilled hole for a cam? imo its well less than an hour's work so might not be too bad to have made. The problem with getting it red hot, is the metal has the consistency of Plasticine. you can easily bend a 1" bar by hand for example. So, a hammer strike might bend it downward, but it will also spread out under the hammer, as if you were hitting Plasticine. If you can, with a small oxy acetylene torch, get a red zone as strip along the bend line, that would be ideal and bending it back easy, otherwise you may better cold forming....but be really careful not to bend the vertical column. Also, on heating it, if its cross drilled for a cam, it may be that that part of it at least would have been heat treated (although the mushroomed bottom suggests its something less than tool steel strong). Get the whole thing red hot and you undo the heat treating. I would guess it was made to accept collets so would have a drawbar...no knowledge of that lathe, just probable speculation based on a tailstock quill that appears to have a self releasing tape (as in collet style) vs a Morse taper.

Very interesting program.

So I recently ran up on the same problem with the winding clutch and pinions, this time on a 16s. I deliberately left them out of the cleaner and did them by hand and ended up with the same sticking problem. This time I ended up cleaning all the teeth again and lightly oiling with a small drop of sewing machine oil and voila, no more sticking and a nice, smooth action. One more lesson learned.

There may only be two of those on the planet and you found them both, nice! Its not a turret tailstock - example of a turret tailstock below. I do think watchmakers lathes that take collets in the tailstock are somewhat rare, at least they sell for a premium. I've a Pultra that does, buts a bit bigger, 10mm. No idea why its seating the collet so deeply. what are the drawbar thread particulars - dia and pitch? A Morse taper is a self holding taper - unlike watch collets that are steep and self releasing. The taper per foot is much less (around 5/8" irrc). MT 2 or even 1 will look huge compared to a watchmakers lathe....there is a MT 0 but I can't see from those photos where it would go. As for measuring the bore, there are lots of tools but the most basic is a set of small hole gauges and telescoping gauges. These are set then measured with a micrometer. Cost and accuracy goes up from there. A set of small hole gauges irrc usually covers from 1/8 to 1/2" As for the bent piece, some ham fist maybe got a little over zealous. You could start banging around on it, but you could also wreck the fit of the rest of it easily enough. I'd make new one out of something tough - a preheated chrome moly like 4140. As its not holding, I'd say make one or draw it up and get it made.

STOP Do NOT tackle this yourself! If you've never serviced any watch, this is NOT the one to cut your teeth on. Check out my watch repairer of choice for the 7axx & 7txx range of watches. As you'll see it's a minefield of tiny plastic parts.

Are you sure it doesn't have a jewel plate like this only on the bottom of the lower plate.

If the pivots are not broken then it can only be the jewel has move or cracked.

It looks like the wheel is sitting against the plate and it shouldn’t be. It looks like the jewel is allowing the staff to go through past the pinion. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Is it a Dubois and Depraz module in that?

Status report: After messing with this movement for most of the day, and never really being able to figure out, or perhaps get to operate, the chronograph functions, I finally got it started up. I looked at another of the "NOS" movements that I bought last year and one looks like it had some grease applied to the center arbor at the back of the watch. I applied some clock oil to the center arbor and gently manipulated a wheel or two to move things around. Eventually it started running, and is running now 6-8 hours later. I'm not thrilled that the chrono functions don't seem to be operating properly, but I can live with that I suppose. At least it's running. I did learn a bit more about working on quartz watches so the day was not a total waste. And someday I would like to mess with a working chronograph to see exactly how they're supposed to work. I'll have to keep my eyes out for another. Just a quick snapshot of the little devil. It's an OK looking watch. I took it in "eclipse" style in honor of last week's lunar eclipse. SAK watches with this style bezel may have been the most popular Swiss Army watch ever sold. The non-chronographs are ubiquitous. They made a couple of other dials for this model. One was a dark blue with gold registers. I like this one much better. Cheers.