Leaderboard

Wrecked and worked on these a lot in the 80s. No, not the Seiko, I mean the PX Vespa's

I think you may find that this is an old style tapered canon pinion with a central shaft that needs to be driven out from the front. Have a looks here and you will see what I mean; http://www.zipworld.com.au/~dazb/horo/oldStyleCP/CannonPinion.html

Just wanted to give feedback. Marc was right - While the shaft was hard to see at first, there is a shaft and i was able to extract it.

Not unfortunate on a Seiko. As Clockboy mentioned, between 240 and 250 is normal after just a few years of use. 300 is virtually never seen,, but check https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/4569-6r15-amplitude-record/ for an exception. At 220 (with a good pattern) they still keeps good time. Note that 70, 7S, 4R, 6R all share the same escapement design, in fact parts are interchangeable. Also, pendant tubes can be replaces on divers, but requires milling/drilling and custom fixtures. Unless you have the equipment ready, is not worth for the value of the watch.

Check the position of the caseback, if it's crooked or upside down or anything like that then the groove inside isn't lining up with the stem and that can cause issues like this. Consider having a watch technician maintain this watch in the future.

Wearing this Beauty Grand Seiko I picked up a few months back…..

I should say slipping cannon pinion. But you have already checked that? As you wind it around something in the date mechanism is slipping for sure. How does it feel when you set the time with the crown? If it's very light or heavy?

I took a photograph of a few Macchina Sportiva case backs and took measurements of the text, the logo panel and diameter of the text relative to the panel and case back. I then edited and recreated the Logo panel in Gimp. I recreated the circular text using the same font as a layer. Then I created a black background layer the same overall size of the case back. The artwork was the laser printed onto a transfer film ready for transferring to the case back. Obviously, printers do not print white text. Therefore, I used an acid etch primer on the case back before painting it with an off white background for the text. The transfer was then applied and baked on. A few coats of matte lacquer was then applied to seal and finish it off. This is not one for the faint hearted, it needs a lot of patience.

Haha that destruction picture is so ... fake. That wooden hammer would not do much to those steel cased watches The thing is, i dont care about the manufacturer. I am excited the same way by a chinese crap or by a no value but 150 year old Roskopf or by a LeCoultre.