Leaderboard

Now we can fit the autowind mechanism. Refit the reduction wheel and screw which is left hand thread. Fit the pawl lever onto the pin on its driving wheel, the lub should hold it in place while you flip it over and put into position. Make sure that both ends of the lever are not lying on top of the reduction wheel when you fully tighten the screws, just gently ease them over the edge first, so that they are engaging with the tiny ratchet teeth. Fit the rotor and check that the autowind is working ok, taking care not to slip and catch the balance. It would have been nice to go on and fit the dial and hands and then re-case the movement, but I have just noticed that the watch and the balance in particular appear to be magnetised. So I will leave it for now until my de-magnetiser arrives. Hopefully I have covered the most important points and the rest is just cosmetic really. I hope it has been helpful, I have quite enjoyed doing it. I've tried to explain things as clearly as I can. If I have been unclear at any point I would be glad to help if I can.

Best way to get results for new questions is to start a new discussion with your request in the title. http://www.phfactor.net/wtf/ISA/9001-1300.pdf http://www.isaswiss.com/fr/informations-techniques.html Then for everyone else for the original question here's a walk-through. http://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html

I've got a recipe for baking turnip watches...

When out with my good lady I spotted this:- :thumbsu: £2.99 with lockable lid designed to prevent egress of noxious smells ! Struck me that there was another use !!! Well i was meaning to get a dust cover anyway :cool: Works for me ! NB Other products from other suppliers may work just as well :D Cheers, Vic

Some of my bits. A cyma military watch, I wear this alot, so I guess it's my regular watch.

It's a while since I worked on a 48, but I think this problem will be caused by the minute runner spring (8270) be out of adjustment. The vee shaped end of the spring should rest perfectly between the teeth when the minute counter is reset. If it is slightly out, it will cause the wheel to rotate ever so slightly when the hammer lifts. To set the spring press the chrono reset to and make sure the hammer is down on the heart there should be very slight play on the minute wheel. Now adjust the position of the spring to ensure it rest perfectly between two teeth on the wheel, this is what keeps the minute hand at zero, not the hammer. The reference to the the chronograph runner being blocked means that the hammer should be firmly down on the heart so that there is absolutely no movement of the chrono hand. Unlike the minute hand, it is the hammer that keeps the chrono second hand at zero.

In the servicing section with all the others.

Hi bobm12, thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge with me. I feel confident to have a go. Could be a nice present for someone. Cheers, Mike

Hi Mike, First look under the balance wheel and you will see the ETA logo and movement number: that's your brand and model. Also, the seconds hand should be at 6 o'clock for an ETA 6498 and at 9 o'clock for an ETA 6497 (since those were originally pocket watch movements we are considering the wristwatch normal crown at 3 o'clock). Chinese clones are pretty much the same: clones! They are all at least fairly precise according to finish, version, use, etc. Regarding the cases, if made for this movement they should not have any problems other than quality: some better than others. Make sure the selected dial is made for this movement and has the proper dimensions to fit the case. Also, some movements, to fit correctly in their cases need an extra ring that restrict play (called movement holder, this is most frequent on those ebay "Panerai" cases). In most cases, the rings might be missing or not supplied. Most parts among the original 6498/97 and the 6498/97-1 versions including Unitas original, are interchangeable with some exceptions given by, version (notable balance bridge among others) and "orientation" (98 vs 97). The higher bit version -2 is "less" interchangeable parts wise. Also, do a search in our forum to find out more about this movement and its builds. I believe we have a lot of "experience" shared in here. Hope this works for you, Cheers, Bob

Many thanks! Stay tuned, I have the rest to add.

The key to any dispute is evidence. If you have undeniable evidence then just stick to your guns. In your case pics of the movement before it was sent. I had a dispute a few years ago with a furniture company I got no where with the usual correspondence so I decided to take the company through the small claims court. I then started to get letters from their solicitor showing such things as the costs they were incurring, letters saying they had been instructed by the company to deny all claims and they would defend at the court. So as a precaution I visited a local solicitor & he assured me I would win the case & what was happening was they were trying to scar me off. The reason they do this is 75% of all claimants back off once threatened even when they have a 100% solid case. The end result was two days before the hearing the companies solicitors offered a full refund + my expenses & the case was closed.

Shouldn't the seller be responsible for checking this out? After all, the watch should be under warranty. Of course, it is almost impossible to ensure a store will have a watchmaker on staff.

https://secure.eta.ch/CSP/DefaultDesktop.aspx?tabindex=1&tabid=28

I really don't think there is anything wrong. Sometimes it can take quite a while to get things to fall into place, especially if the bridge location dowels are a bit on the tight side. Try again, only this time keep a very gentle pressure on the bridge with a piece of pegwood, while using an old oiler with a bend on the end to gently ease the pivot into place. When you eventually get everything in place, use your puffer to blow air onto the periphery of the escape wheel and the the train should spin freely. Now tighten the the screws ever so gently and do the above test to ensure everything is still OK before fully tightening. You will manage, the longest I have taken was best part of an hour on a Roamer movement!

now all I need is a lathe....thanks Geo!

As Don has said, also check the whole balance pivots and jewel holes, some times if a balance pivot has broken it sticks in the jewel and it can still work but tends to ride on the broken pivot.

It's a balance chuck for holding a watch balance in a lathe for doing pivot work.

close but try this.....time to invest in a new camera

Today's watch....1950's Doxa Cal 1147 in stunning condition. The amplitude is quite low on this one so it will be serviced very soon:) This one only comes out once a year but I am shocked every time I wear it, lol.

A eternia chrongraph

Hello All, I have such a gigantic collection, I tend to wear each watch two to three times a year. (I know, I'm a watchaholic and need help, lol) Anyway, today is Tag day and I've had this Aquaracer for about a year now. She keeps better time than my Rolex and feels nice and "chunky" with plenty of heft. The construction is solid and this watch has been to h**l and back but yet she still keeps great time and looks good too;) Thanks for watching! :) Love that lume:) I apologize in advance for the horrible pics....I will get used to this phone soon enough, haha.