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The victim: The murderers: 2-3 steps with the nail file: final step, with Polywatch It takes no more then 15-20 minutes... 30 if you have two left hands, like me.

Hi Mark - good to see you here. I guessed you'd been very busy. Sorry to hear your balls are in the air, though. Anything we can do? :startle:

When fitting new stems to watches I use these tools :- Digital calipers, Fine grade diamond lap Wire cutter Pin vice Now for fitting. (1) Hold the stem in the pin vice and screw on the crown tightly by hand. (2) With the movement fitted correctly in the case, insert the stem until it locks in place. Now measure the gap between the case and the underside of the stem. In this case it is 2.16mm. (3) Subtract 0.2mm from this size and this will give the amount to remove from the stem. In this case it will be 1.96mm which will give 0.2mm clearance below the crown when fitted to the watch. (4) Now remove the crown from the stem and hold the stem very tightly in the pin vice, then place the pin vice and stem between the jaws of the digital calipers then zero the calipers. (5) Remove the calipers and without touching the zero button set them to minus 1.96mm. THEN RE-ZERO THE CALIPERS AT THIS LENGTH The wire cutters are now used cut off the excess thread leaving a small amount to be filed to the exact length. (6) All that is required now is to dress the stem with the diamond lap a little at a time until the calipers read zero. (7) Finally screw the crown on tightly and it should be ready to fit to the watch without further adjustment. I find that this method cuts down on trial and error. FOR SCREW DOWN CROWNS. A) Screw down the crown tightly onto the case without the stem and measure the distance nbetween the bottom of the crown and the case. B ) Screw the new stem tightly into the crown, then insert into the watch until it engages and locks into the movement. C) Press the crown down firmly as far as it will go and hold it there. D) Using the vernier callipers, measure the distance between the bottom of the crown and the case. E) Subtract the size determined in (D) from the size measured in (A) then subtract a further 0.15mm from this size. This is the amount to shorten the stem by. This should allow the crown to screw full home without compressing the stem too tightly between the movement and the inside of the crown. F) Cut the stem leaving it slightly longer than the size determined in (E), and dress down to size using the diamond lap and vernier callipers as described in the original post. G) Screw the crown onto the shortened stem and check fit and function, before using a tiny spot of Loctite 221 to secure. Click here to view the article

I would say it is not beat error 0.1ms is well within tolerance also the amplitude is not good but I suspect something else is amiss. As a first step I would check it is not magnetised. If Ok then clean the escape components & check the pallets,check for end shake of the balance etc.

Not much to go on here. It's a bit like the "what was the problem" thread without clues. What is the history? Has it ever worked? If "hand winding is good", does that mean you can wind it fully until it stops winding? Where is the missing screw from the barrel bridge? Is it jammed in the mechanism somewhere? Do the hands turn freely? Beyond that I would start taking it apart... S

Ok Thanks Geo I was the Chronohand... I have Press the Hand now really firm at the CP and now it seems it Reset... Now it seems all Perfect :) But i must check that i get an new Chronohand... Because the Hand don´t looks very good :) But for now it Works... Thanks Geo and have an nice Weekend...

^^ what Stuart said plus... 1. Could be the nub on the setting lever is worn. The setting lever will need to be replaced. 2. Could be the groove on the step has worn allowing the nub on the setting lever to slide out of the groove easily. The stem will need replacing. 3. Could be the hole in the movement plate is worn and the stem has too much side shake. Much harder to resolve. Possibly find a scrap movement or turn a new custom stem with a larger diameter to fit the hole snugly. Often times it can be a combination of 1 & 2 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glad to hear you are OK and busy with work, your openness in sharing your knowledge is what makes this website so good, we miss you. :bow:

It wasn't meant that way at all Mark. By starting this forum you probably became the most approachable and accessible watch repairer on the net to the average Joe. Apologies for any offense.

If you are referring to Mark Lovick, he has been extremely busy with work. He will most certainly be back, hopefully in the not too distant future.

It was a busy weekend , but I managed to give the Seikomatic a Spa treatment . I also installed a watch-strap I had that was too tight so I put a spring-loaded extension link on it . When I took off the case back it had 3 service markings in the inside that were ink stamps . I tried to preserve them but the acetone got to them , probably from my fingers , and they washed off...[darn ]. In saying that I am saying that I haven't done my own service yet , but the movement is running great and keeping good time . I serviced and cleaned another Seiko 5 Sportmatic with a crosshair black dial and got my first non-running Accutron running by taking out the teeney tiny bent index and pawl fingers , straightening them out [similar to a hairspring , only smaller ] , reinstalling and aligning the fingers , putting a new battery in and pushing in the crown to cancel the hack , and did a couple of back-flips when the thing started running . Oh what a feeling .....oh yeah , I also put a new movement in my Seiko Flightmaster chronograph. But back to the 39 jewel Sportsmatic ,...I took a few pics to share .

A follow up on the Chinese eBay #400 / #1000 grit sharpening "stone", which I received today, 16 days after ordering. It's a solid rigid metal plate (1.5mm thick) with diamond coating on either side, #400 grit and #1000 grit. Did some tweezers and it went fast! I guess the diamonds are sharp....... The size (3cm x 10cm) is very nice for in your hand palm and gives good control over delicate work. The #1000 grit gives a nice smooth finish, but if you wish for a mirror finish, a finer grit is required. I haven't found these "stones" in a finer (> #1000) grit yet. Endurance....... time will tell, but price / quality (£3.30 incl. postage) seems very good to me, ideal for tweezers maintenance. Regards: Roland.

OOPS, I forgot to say the calipers had to be re-zeroed again! (5) Remove the calipers and without touching the zero button set them to minus 1.96mm. THEN RE-ZERO THE CALIPERS AT THIS LENGTH The wire cutters are now used cut off the excess thread leaving a small amount to be filed to the exact length. Please edit this into the original post if possible Mark.

Here's the set of hones that I use on a regular basis, they are especially good for keeping a good edge on tungsten carbide and high speed steel lathe tools. Having the plastic handle built in allows you to use it like a file. The grades I use are medium, fine and super fine. PS. They are great for dressing the ends of stems to achieve the correct length after I have snipped off the major excess.