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Old video, but new high resolution, I asked them recently if they had a better quality video as the old one was pixelated.

Two or three of spots of 9010 will do the trick Roger, it doesn't need much. That's what Omega recommended for the 1120 I have just finished.

Is that your tool fetish kicking in again Micky? :D I think the tool will be the same as yours, it's just that Bob has his held in a pin vice.

I reckon that'll be a Raketa 2609.HA under the snap on case back. A capable little engine with end stones for the escape wheel held in place with spring clips which can be a challenge to reinstall, a tiny little hole jewel set into the tip of the centre wheel pinion for the seconds hand pinion to run in, a lefty for the crown wheel screw (3 slots), a press fit cover plate for the motion works, and a shim under the balance cock. With what looks like a Russian version of Incabloc shock protection and an adjustable stud carrier it's a nice movement to work on and can turn out quite good performance. In case you hadn't guessed, I have done one or two of these :) . Cosmetically yours looks to be pretty good so provided no one has brutalised the hair spring you should end up with a great everyday watch. If you get stuck for any spare parts let me know, I may have some bits and pieces in my goody box.

The link below might be of some help. In my opinion if you wish to repair/service watches & clocks you will need more than online courses. You will need tools, a dedicated workspace & a lot of hands-on experience. http://www.clockmakers.org/horology/horological-training/

Thanks for that Bob, darn, rust!? And here's me thinking its was some kind of graphite to assist with the longevity of the movement seeing as its supposed to be sealed up lol

Nice Chronos, G, I'm partial to the mechanical ones but that Seiko is a beauty! Cheers, Bob

@Colin: Most welcome, Colin! @Micky: Absolutely Micky, those are the cousins and/or ofrei offerings....probably ofrei in my case and yes, as Geo said, held in a pin vise. The little springs are a pain, once they ping away it is bye, bye...or maybe buy, buy! :) Also, what you noticed on the intermediate wheel is rust! I was able to clean it up a bit but chances are it has to be replaced. I'll work on it a little bit more today, time permitting. I can't explain it other than thinking about chemical interaction between the lubricant and the metal since everything else is ok...no more serious rust. Even if the case is compromised, it is not very likely that whatever rusted the wheel only affected it and not the rest of the watch. Any ideas and/or solution to this mystery is welcome though! :) By the way, I haven't tried the tea method of de-rusting. What kind of tea is the best and how do we use it? I wonder if anyone out there has been particularly successful with this method and can outline the proper/fastest way to it. I have used the bergeon stuff and the vapo-rust. The former is like Chlorine or Alum but milder (sometimes it works and sometimes it won't, at extremes and is good to stain everything black), the second one eats the kiff springs and erodes other parts depending! So here I am again, finding a solution for a good and mild de-rusting agent! I had a bad rusted Swatch movement (one of the lot) that was so rusted I immersed it, completely, in vapo-rust but I lost all the kiffs. The parts that were badly rusted didn't really de-rust and some other stuff came out separate, i.e. staffs and wheels came apart, etc. I would not recommend it to anyone. In any case, it is fun so far! Cheers, Bob

Not me CB, but I am going to try something shortly that might! ;)

Welcome! I agree, I'm working on an FHF (font) 76, and that has four jewels on the bridge. I had the devil of a time getting everything lined up, especially the fourth wheel, as it is completely hidden under the bridge, with no way to grab it and joggle it into place. Cheers!

Here's the picture, sorry for the double post.

That's a good point about the train bridge Geo, I hadn't spotted that.

Hi Kees, That's a nice watch you have and it should be a good one to work on. One thing to note if you're not aware of it is the crown wheel screw (with the 3 slots) has a left hand thread. These often get sheared off if you don't know. Have fun

That's the ones Micky.

Welcome to the forum Kees, and thank you for the informative introduction. This is a friendly forum with lots of good members who are always willing to help, I'm sure you'll like it here. Like you, I'm another that has a background in mechanical engineering. The watch you are about to work on has the potential to be a really nice piece, I like the look of it both inside and out. Having had a look at the movement, I really wouldn't recommend it as a watch for a first attempt at servicing. The train bridge has five jewels in it and I think it will be a really awkward one to replace. It would be better if you could start on a movement that has more bridges in it and less jewels per bridge. It's tricky aligning pivots with jewels when starting off on this journey, and you need to develop a very delicate touch to do this without breaking things.

Welcome aboard, I too come from an engineering and mechanical background :)

Welcome to the forum. Lots of newbies here & lots of really knowledgeable guys to help you if needed. Enjoy

On a cold and windy day I worked on my me acquisition, a Seiko 7a48-7000. Here's a pic of the serviced watch: Http://www.clarkson.it/seiko/7A48_7000/458463/7a48_7000_458463_04.jpg

Funny you should say that, Marc. Here's what I'm wearing as an everyday watch at the moment. I wish I'd gotten mine as cheaply as atimegoneby.

There are some surprisingly good economy guitars out there, I have a Crafter D7 (solid cedar top on mahogany back and sides) which I picked up for peanuts at a boot sale last year and although I can't claim that it's the equal of my "posh" guitars it certainly outshines them in terms of bang for buck. The cedar top has a similar warmth to it's colour as yours does hence my question; it could just be that I need to calibrate the colour on my monitor :-) Not wearing a watch right now but will post a WOTD in the morning.

I think a nice plane light leather strap along these lines would look great. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Padded-Buffalo-Grain-Leather-Watch-Strap-Band-22mm-20mm-18mm-Contrast-Stitching-/390534571020?var=660112853733&hash=item5aedaca40c:m:m6rT6PjEbP1PjhLQx8iL-sA

Great work on some of the sorriest looking Ramon pieces Bob [emoji106]

Interesting interview with the great man, can you believe the interviewer was actually wearing an Apple Watch in front of him tho?!

So if the escape wheel spins really fast it means the pallet fork jewel are not engaged with the escape wheel teeth. Understand how this works I have a link below. So a lot of this will depend upon how much disassembly you did. You should've remove the balance wheel and pallet fork is it would've made it a lot easier for reassembly And verifying the escape wheel is in its proper position And the pivots are still intact. Then unfortunately just because the escape wheel spins doesn't mean the pivots are intact. If one of the pivots is broken off it can still spin although it has a habit of wobbling a little bit. So pallet fork can be quite a challenge to get in and great opportunity to break one or both pivots off. If you didn't take the pallet fork out and set the escape wheel on top of it you'll break one or both of the pivots. Then at the link below you'll notice the escape wheel teeth the pallet fork are all in the same plane if the pivots are broken you'll find the escape wheel is either above or below the pallet fork and the fork is not holding the escape wheel in place which is why it's spinning. Then this is an exceedingly complicated watch with all kinds of things to break beyond the escape wheel so I wonder what else is broken if anything? Then if this watch hasn't been serviced in the last five years or more that also needs to be taken care of the watch needs to be cleaned and re-lubricated. http://raulhorology.com/2012/10/setting-up-the-escapement-eta-6498-end-shakes-divisions/

You were right the first time, the hole marked turn is where you remove the stem. Insert a largish screwdriver into the hole that says turn and turn the screwdriver 45 to 90 degrees while pulling on the stem to open up the jaws inside it. It may take a few attempts as you can't really see what you are doing but should feel it open up. Once you spread that clip the stem should pull out easily. Hope that helps.