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Have a look at this video Steve it might help you.

I find that the best method is to simply position it in your eye so that the natural tension of your skin holds it while your face muscles are relaxed. So touch the eyeglass to the bottom of your eye, slightly before where you want it to sit, 'hook' the edge of the eye glass into that bit of skin, then do the same at the top of your eye, done right, and with a little practice you can keep a loupe in your eye while keeping your face totally relaxed and passive, no effort required. That's not to say my eyeglass never falls out, silly things like that will happen once in a while even with experience, which is why I think a lot of very experienced and highly trained watchmakers, even the Swiss watchmakers, often opt to use the headband/holders, because your eyeglass falling out is just a concern you don't need when working on something very complex and delicate. In my work capacity I'm sitting down, standing up and being interrupted so frequently I can't justify the faffing about it takes to use a holder (saves me precious milliseconds), but they are good.

OK, so my first walkthrough here. More a picture reference for people, who like me, cannot remember for the life of me where things go. Not a particularly nice movement this, a pin pallet chrono, but one in need of a service none the less. Movement comes out through the front of the case. The split stem just needs a good tug to free it. A crystal lift would be needed to get the front of, but in this case it was poor fitting and just fell out. The split stem The dial screws, one is a little hidden under one of the chrono levers The dial comes off, with a little spacer ring Chrono wheels are held in place by this stamped spring plate. It simply slides backwards for removal. Note how the fingers locate on each staff. With plate removed, the wheels can be removed. With the top plate removed, the operating levers can be seen. The small V shaped spring top right is the only thing providing tension on any of the chrono levers. It pinged across the room while I was reassembling. Much swearing and searching ensued. Fortunately a found a subsitute that did the job. The date mechanism is modular, simply remove the two screws and it lifts out as one. I have to admit I only gave this a cursory clean rather than a full strip. With the balance out you can see the lovely pin pallet The click is just a small spring tucked away in here This plate screw is the location for one of the chrono levers so remember where it goes. The sub-second wheel needs to be removed from the drive wheel for the chrono The rest of the going train And finally the keyless works, which like the rest of the movement are pretty simple After cleaning, reassembly was pretty straight forward, though aligning all of the wheels under the one-piece plate was a bit tricky. (And the escapee incabloc spring, I have slotting them back in). One point to note is that, when re seating the chrono second hand, the spring plate needs to be braced agains something otherwise the pinion simply pushes out as you try to attach the hand. Once back together and oiled, time keeping was not too bacd. Not excellent, but then it is a 40 year old pin-pallet which was desinged to be disposable. I could not find a lift angle for the 8420, only the 8422, which I assume to be similar, which is a slightly unusual 60 degrees. The crappy crystal was replaced with a rather funky bevelled and armoured Seiko item, for reference Heuer Ickx's take a 33mm exactly crystal.

No - keep them dry.

Sorry I could never tell the time at a glance with that. I know I wear glasses but I do have my limits. :D

They were obviously being polite! :D

Both are a matter of the hairspring not following the path of the regulator. When you move the regulator, the regulator pin is pushing the hairspring out of the center which causes the beat error to change. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Marc WRT Addict Member 306 posts LocationNorthampton, England Posted 22 April 2015 - 10:44 PM cdjswiss, on 22 Apr 2015 - 7:43 PM, said: I think I'm right in saying that if the hair spring coils are properly concentric and the terminal curve (the bit that goes through the arc made by the regulator curb pins) is circular rather than spiral, the moving the regulator shouldn't introduce any beat error. If the regulator curb pins impinge on the spiral part of the hair spring, or if the terminal arc of the spring is not circular, then as you move the regulator the curb pins will interfere with the concentricity of the hair spring which possibly could introduce or exacurbate beat errors. Here, Steve, is a question and answer from a previous post that may be relevent to your problem in classical physics.

I think that the first thing that I would look at in both cases is the hair spring geometry. Is the hair spring flat and correctly centered? Is the form of the terminal curve circular around the balance axis or is it spiraled? Does the hair spring sit centrally between the regulator curb pins throughout the arc described by the regulator adjustment? Is the gap between the cub pins correct? If adjusting the regulator results in changes in the beat error that suggests that either the terminal curve isn't circular or the hair spring coils aren't properly concentric. When this is the case, moving the regulator pushes the hair spring side ways which can alter the resting position of the balance and thus beat error. Incorrect regulator curb pin spacing and non-parallel curb pins can be a source of rate variation between the vertical positions which can also be affected by the hair spring not being properly centered between the pins.

Totally agree! Yet, four compliments on it in two days- fingers crossed one of them wants to buy it! Because this dial is about to make me go :pulling-hair-out:

I'm sorry Dan, bit I couldn't live with the dial................even after a few of your best beers. :(

If you are using your iPhone5s can I recommend you use Tapatalk (free app on iTunes) - it is not the best app in the world, but I find uploading using Tapatalk to be very reliable. https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/tapatalk-forums-discussions/id307880732?mt=8

I was always advised that the dumbest thing to do with any question was to not ask it. Asking questions is the outward expression of an enquiring mind, and an enquiring mind is a sign of intelligence, not dumbness.

First off , I want to second and third the dumb question response by you and Geo . I feel that when you get to a situation where you have a question , you're curious and interested , you're learning , and you can help others that just got into that territory . Second Gotwatch , I'm glad that you posted that link . I forgot that I have it in my files and once I get on that site , I really start surfing it . It definitely is a good one .

Ishima, An excellent write up.

Best statement on the forum yet!

Actually, it's just the opposite. See here: http://people.timezone.com/library/wglossary/wglossary631691881806327073 edit to add: There is no question that is a dumb question. Ask away, we all are here to help.

More look for books Books by Donald De Carle. http://www.goodreads.com/author/list/465592.Donald_De_Carle. By the way here ssylka.Ne reading these books, it will be difficult to understand the world of watches.Sincerely.

The Chronostop is not an automatic watch and is therefore not fitted with a slipping mainspring so a light coating of 8200 grease is all that is required on the mainspring. When lubricating a spring and barrel for an automatic watch, the spring should be very slightly lubed with 8200 before being fitted into the barrel. The barrel wall should have three or four spots of 8217 placed on the inside barrel wall before the spring is inserted.

I did similar with 99p pair of specs, but I had to leave the lenses in! :D

Good idea! I like it! Will