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How could an Omega balance become so out of poise ? With such a variation in amplitude, it's got to be more than the balance poise ! Before even considering poising, I'd want to get dial up/dial down much closer (<10s) than 89s difference, and with similar amplitude. Is there a big difference in amplitude DU/DD ?

Now that the pivot has broken off, you can probably grip the broken end with a pair of pliers and remove it by gently twisting and pulling it. If you know the calibre of the movement, you can try searching for a replacement 3rd wheel. If none can be found, you'll have to repivot the wheel. That would be a future project.

I use the term "restoration" lightly. I did a full service, cleaned the case in an ultrasonic, and replaced the crystal. When I got the watch, it wasn't running, and now it is, so I'll take what I can get.

UPDATE: After swapping in successively smaller timing washers, I have this watch keeping great time with the regulator at mid scale! Waiting on a sub second hand to arrive then I will finish this and deliver it to the owner.

The freewheel is only friction tight at the at last millimeter of the pivot. I use a homemade tool for lifting it off. It comprise two sewing needles with the eyes soldered together then glued into the end of a bamboo chopstick. It is wedged under the freewheel near the hub until it pops free. My mentor doesn't even use any tool. He just removes the whole wheel bridge then using his fingers to grasp the wheels on each side, with a gentle twist, he separates the wheels.

You can grab the bit of remaining pivot with a pinvice and remove by pulling and twisting at the same time. The puller for 5 spoke wheels like this and driving wheels for chronographs is the Presto #3, for even spoked wheels it's the #3A.

You need a THIRD WHEEL, LONG PIVOT, the old minute drive wheel can be refitted if its undamaged.

Oh yes! I wrote that above…I didn’t know I had to use this kind of tool. Lesson learned. I will ask them. Thank you, again.

Oh I meant presto tool should have been used to remove the wheel, it wont do no good now. Go on to julesborel.com, see if they have got the 3rd wheel and possible alternatives to it.

No no Doc, slightest warp then the wheel wouldn't smoothly drive the sweep arbout.

Should not attempt removing the broken piece without the right tool., the wheel warps easy.

https://www.kccscientific.com/frequency-converters/?gclid=CjwKCAjwoduRBhA4EiwACL5RP7tpjJBx88XiBop2XSHEdD6rOlbWKNNzkMq4emq6TlTMSLulTYTvUBoCNt8QAvD_BwE If you have deep pockets, this is the one for you.

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&2&2uswk&Tissot_27_020 I think the OP was referring to a sweep center second freewheel as @Nucejoe was saying.

It seems so. Here is a useful list: https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/mainsprings

It happens, I think its called independent minute drive wheel, you best get you a replacement. Check the jewel this fits in under good magnification. Some folks here have removed these wheels with success by hand puller tool.

ETA 2391 is a solid son of a gun, will run for ever, has the dial been worked on?

When you tested it on the timegrapher, did you test it in all 6 positions or just dial down?

Looks very much like an ETA 2391. Compare fig 4 at http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&ETA_2391 Is yours an 11.5 ligne movement?

After carving a cat out of a block of some extra hard pine wood (I think that pallet came from the US.) with a blunt kitchen knife decided to make a whittling knife, my first ever knife. 100% recycled. Again wood is pallet wood, pegs from skip, blade is from a used table saw blade. Not perfect at all, but I am happy. I would need a proper belt sander. I left the markings from the file because i liked it.

Thank you very much for your words of welcome.

The canon pinion in AS1803 is offset. There is a spring incorporated into the minute train which prevents reverse load transfered back to the offset canon pinion which if malfunctions, it will disrupt moving of the hands in one direction and not in the other. The crown wheel may also jump " skip" one or more tooth if under excessive load

Does it say 21 Jewels on the dial? What is the diameter of the movement? Also, my guess is that the Seconds Hand Pivot was bent when you placed the movement upside down (without the Dial installed). That's why i never use such pad as shown on your photo. Get yourself Bergeon 4040 movement holder and never place a watch face down with the dial being removed.

Hi, I just wanted to place a tipp here. While I like the Felsa 4007N movement inside my Ulysse Nardin, I wanted to place a hughe tipp here. My watch was sometimes working for days and then it seems to stop but on manual winding it was always working solid. Thus I suspected the auto winding mechanism, especially the bearing. It was not the case. After having disassembled this watch so many times and replacing the mainspring etc I finally found the fault. Its an driving Wheel which is transfering the power from the Autowinding to the ratchet wheel. The correct part number for my caliber was 1482. The wheel consist out two wheels/gears which are just pushed into eachother. I guess this was done with a staking set initially. So the fault lies in the detail that this smaller gear was becoming loose enough that sometimes the auto winding was not able to turn the ratchet wheel anymore. So in practical, this wheel was acting like a loose clutch. I missed this for quiet a while during any visual inspection but at a certain moment in time i tried to turn it with my tweezers and noticed the issue. I was not able to fix it with my staking set as I am not experienced enough and just bent the Gear and the "closing" stump was not working as expected for me. Anyway.. I ordered the replacement and boom. Works. So if you work on an automatic felsa with these symtoms, check that part. Greetings Max