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I have just serviced this Swiss made golf scorer. The main interest to a watchman is that the reset of the scores is done by turning the crown a full circle and each score is reset by the 'hammer' labelled A in exactly the same way as the second and minute hand flyback resets of a chronograph.

I am in the process of building a custom tester based on the Accutron 600 test set. I choose the 600 because I have a pristine 700 and dont mind hacking the 600. I like the test set because of the huge 25ua meter! I am designing a variable battery source using a miniature digital volt meter mounted on a 3D printed module that plugs into the hole in the 600 test set (where the leads are stored). This is not a "does everything" tester either. It will let me test for low and high battery voltages, and also test pulse current. The picture shows the current state of the module--basically got the 3D print done. The electronics will be trivial.

So I was following a tried and tested procedure for replacing the gasket in the crown of this Seiko diver. For those who don't know, it involves stuffing small gaskets into the available space, squishing them down, which results in the washer popping off so you can get the old gasket out. (See here for more info: https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.com/2015/10/12/crown-revival-seiko-6105-and-62mas-crown-gasket-replacement/) I used a pendant tube to do the squishing. It worked: the washer came off, got the old gasket out, But now the pendant tube which I used to do the squishing is stuck! In the photo I've put another of the same tubes next to the crown so you can see which is the part which I need to unstick. I have tried: pulling it out with a pin vice heating it dissolving it in alum pulling it out with a magnet pulling it out with a pin vice +superglue soaking in acetone to dissolve any remaining rubber which might be sticking it vibrating it in the ultrasonic washer soaking +vibrating in WD40

That's not a bad idea. You could even remove one coil or two, it would not make a considerable impact on its function. We had to design and make a transformer including making the frame out of bakelite sheets in school and we could never place the required amount of coils into the space we had on that frame (just close to it), yet the output voltage of the transformer was correct to the tenth of a volt. When a coil is dead it is usually burnt so you must be extremely lucky if it is not though. ( Probably someone who works with these things daily should comment on this not me who barely touches these things nowadays.)

Phew! Done it. Superglued a stump from the jewelling set onto the tube. Then couldn't get the stump out, no matter how hard I gripped with the vice. Eventually jammed it in a door, gripped the crown with wire cutter wrapped in a cloth, and pulled with my whole body weight. Came apart in the right place, crown undamaged, tube removed! Thanks for your help and suggestions.

Hi LWS There was a Tester/power supply designed and made by Martin Catt, it was on the net I built one a while ago it works ok and would be a doddle for you I am sure. Have a look at thr pdf's below as they contain all the instructions. Its pretty handy. catt_pwr-supply_01.pdf catt_pwr-supply_02.pdf catt_pwr-supply_03a.pdf catt_pwr-supply_03b.pdf

You could try gluing a longer, tight fitting tube over the pendant tube and wriggle it out. Hope it doesn't end up like the nursery rhyme "Why did the old lady swallow a fly?"

That is a neat little gadget, and quite well made. I haven't ever seen one. I will need to keep an eye out for them. It is basically the simplest form of mechanical adder/calculator. Not quite a Curta, but very interesting none the less.

Do you have a good hold with the pin vice? I doubt you do, because the nose of the collet is almost flat. Anyway, if you can't grab it, you can cut it, ideally on a lathe. Since you probably don't have one, I would then take two sharp screwdrivers, 2 or 2.5 mm. See if you can cut some grooving on two sides. Then prying there up with two drivers.

I changed a battery on one a few months ago and I think it was a ETA. If so as already said Cousins sell them. These movements are serviceable if you are OK comfortable with that.

The case number would be on the inside of the case back and is 3 or 4 numbers, some with a single letter in front. I'm not sure when they started using the case numbers, the earliest example in my own collection is 1962 and none of mine from 1958 have it, so I would guess sometime between 1958 and 1962 is when they started using the case numbers. You can download the ABC Catalog and Supplement here. There is a section at the beginning explaining how to use the case numbers to find the correct Bulova part number. If your watch does have a case number and you look it up, it will have a line showing all of the correct Bulova part numbers, but if it has a split stem it will tell you to go to the "Split Stem" section. For example, case 622, under stem it says "*(Split Stems)", so you go to the Split Stem section (starts on page 110 in my copy) and then look up the case number there. For 622 the correct female split stem is found on page 117 and shows the part as 16C-11AC 11.28 MM. Unfortunately, this section seems to be incomplete and for some reason it doesn't list all of the split stems in this section that it should. For example, case 2981 shows as a split stem and tells you to go the Split Stem section in the catalog, but there is no entry there for that case.

From the vid if the roller jewel is 90 degrees from the arms it's massively out of beat too