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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/16/21 in all areas

  1. This is the intro, the book is 135 pages long and my scanner's very slow so it's going to take a bit longer than I thought... a Sunday job. KIF Spare Material Catalogue P1-17.pdf
    3 points
  2. you're seeing several things go on like look up your AS cal. 1686 made around 1960 then the Unitas cal. 6325 made somewhere between 1965 and 1970 how many years ago was that? 51 years and how long are the Swiss supposed to supply parts for their watches? then a very long time ago I did hear a number of how long they were supposed to supply parts but I'm pretty sure it wasn't 50 years. Then when it came to the electronic watches that was a much shorter time span. then there's a problem with mainsprings got your catalog go to the back section where they list the mainsprings by size. Start counting how many different mainsprings there supposed to supply and how many different mainsprings is that? While you're counting the mainsprings look at all the different names and brands I wonder how many of those ever get serviced? the unfortunate reality is for a company they can't keep making mainsprings forever especially if there's a limited demand for them.
    3 points
  3. I got myself a single Horia anvil (approx. £28 with taxes and shipping) to complement my Seitz set, and you're right the diameter was on the big side and wouldn't fit. Because I was impatient, I tried to adjust the diameter myself, which ended up destroying the anvil (I'm too embarrassed to reveal any details). I should have listened to your advice and sent it back, but now it's too late. Anyway, the other day I needed to adjust the third wheel end-shake on a Unitas 6380 but I couldn't get any of my Seitz anvils to fit under the bridge or on the main plate. I felt extremely frustrated thinking about that I would likely have to order a Horia jeweling tool and then have to wait for a many days, weeks, or maybe even months. Trying to come up with an alternative solution I placed the train wheel bridge on the large non-holed Seitz anvil but when I pressed the jewel the whole bridge gave way because it is quite thin. So, I decided to bite the bullet and order a Horia jeweling tool. Getting the Horia press and the set with 24 pushers and 24 anvils from Cousins would be a quick option, but way too expensive, approx. £1910 with tax and UPS shipping. There was a pretty attractive offer on eBay for approx. £420 (Global shipping program) but it only had the set with 8 pushers and three anvils. Or, I could go AliExpress and get a Horia clone set having 24 pushers and 24 anvils for approx. £170 including shipping and VAT. None of these options felt particularly attractive. In the process of trying to determine what to buy, it suddenly occurred to me that maybe the Seitz flat pushers could double as anvils!?!?! Note that I consider it a small miracle that the thought even occurred to me, Ha-ha! It worked perfectly! I haven't fully examined all possible combinations of flat pushers and pump pushers, but at least the two largest flat pushers can double as anvils. Perhaps this is why the Seitz set has so few dedicated anvils!? Anyway, I still decided to order the Chinese Horia clone having 24 pushers and 24 anvils. It will likely take a couple of months before it is delivered. It would seem most reviews are positive but I've also read I should expect a few of the pushers and anvils to be poorly done. Anyway, keeping my fingers crossed and until then I believe the Seitz flat pushers will cover most situations.
    2 points
  4. This is the commercially available mix: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/dial-silvering-powder?code=S1524 But I prefer to use magic Rhodium for restoring brassed parts. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/magic-rhodium
    1 point
  5. Here you can get some estimted of repair costs https://watchguy.co.uk/
    1 point
  6. Seiko 7025-5010 1978 blue dial, just finished.
    1 point
  7. Coming back to this issue; a loose hand usually results on overshoot to beyound the 12 marker. But a fault in the hammer (flyback lever) due to a weak flyback spring , lack of oil on the hammer tips or interference between the hammer and the underside of the second wheel assembly will produce the fault that you describe. Believe me, I have seen this often. A good deal of sleuthing is needed to fix it. But it is an enjoyable occupation. First you should obtain a chronograph guide. They are available on eBay as downloadable pdf files for a few dollars. Search: Esembl-O-Graf Chronograph Watch Course for your movement or something similar.
    1 point
  8. Happens a lot when I'm servicing old watches. Sometimes I receive them with loose date windows or dial markers. I find it safest to reinstall them and put a small dab of superglue from the back of the dial if possible or at the outer edge if not and allow it to wick.
    1 point
  9. Thats a bit tough. probably best to inspect the frame for how it was fitted in the first place, probably just pressed in and held by friction. If that fails a little super glue around the hole edges and press back in, You will only need a minute amount. Rodico can be a bit tacky.
    1 point
  10. Well I feel little stupid . Thanks @Plato and @Deomandinka, really appreciate your help. Learning new things everyday
    1 point
  11. Sounds easy but it's quite a fiddly job to get right even with the right tools... to my knowledge Seagull don't sell parts.
    1 point
  12. Welcome to WRT forum.
    1 point
  13. The same guy (Krishnamurty Sudarson) seems to be running https://www.watch-spares.com/, so be careful. Ask for pictures, detailed description, and negotiate the price before considering anything!
    1 point
  14. 'Whatever stops the hand at 12' is fixed permanently to the second wheel. There are two possibilities (1) as W said - a loose hand or (2) a faulty hammer spring - the part that resets the hand. Definitely send it back.
    1 point
  15. Hello ans welcome to the forum enjoy
    1 point
  16. If everything else fails, this may bring you close enough; https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/mainsprings.php
    1 point
  17. That's how it's supposed to work. My Tag changes date in exactly the same way. The hour hand is moving separately from the rest of the movement which allows it to keep time whilst changing the hour or date.
    1 point
  18. To measure gemstones or precious metals maybe?
    1 point
  19. LOL, there is no quick set on these watches. It is changed with the "Time Zone" i.e the hour changer. Here is the manual for you https://content.abt.com/documents/36109/Swiss_Army_Chrono_Instructions.pdf Enjoy
    1 point
  20. What is so keen about Vostok watches, is that they are inexpensive, have rugged simple ( and per some accurate) movements, and highly moddable. You can change straps, bezels, probably hands too. Basically you can customize the watch to fit your personality. Small wonder they have a cult following. You may call it a gateway fiending into horology and watch collection. And these watches due to low prices can be addicting. And that is not a bad thing.
    1 point
  21. I agree. Many times I have looked to purchase a mainspring from Cousins and they have been marked Obsolete and sometimes very expensive, possibly due to scarcity. More often I have to source elsewhere to get my mainsprings.
    1 point
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