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A recent online purchase and repair to a 1983 Timex commonly called "Red Dot Diver". Bought in non-working order I found internal damage due to a sheared pillar screw. With the aid of my parts collection all was corrected. Here is the before and after. - New Crystal - replace pillar screw - replace hour wheel - COA ( clean, oil, adjust ) - polish buff Only follow up has been with the seconds hands not seating correctly. This is very common with vintage Timex because there is no center tube. So once lifted off the seconds wheel the hole tends to be distorted. Typically I will place hand on a flat metal surface and peen the metal down. In this case that did not work so I when to next level and add a dot of black nail polish. The watch would have originally come with a stainless steel bracelet and the white strap on it now is for wrist worn testing.

I saw this posted on The Watch Site. Apparently, Frederique Constant is releasing a 40hz mechanical watch using a single-piece silicon balance in place of the traditional Swiss lever. I watched the video at the link below and was pretty impressed (but then again, that is not difficult). ? In the video, they are claiming 10x the oscillations per hour compared to a traditional balance system. They also claim that the oscillator needs no lubrication (!) and replaces about 20 parts from a traditional watch. I find myself wondering what the longevity and shock resistance of watches built around something like this will be. Also, I wonder whether anyone other Frederique Constant will touch the tiny weights on the oscillator, which are apparently used to time the movement. I can't post a direct link to the video, but their marketing page with the video on it is here: https://monochrome-watches.com/frederique-constant-slimline-monolithic-manufacture-video-review-technical-guide-specs-price/

You can't loose buying a new mainspring if you intend a full service, just to get the thing running though, I would have taken the barrel out, remove its lid and inspect the innards.

If the jewel is physically still in place yes you can use liquid shellac. It's actually quite nice to use the touch up jewels that are already in place if you think there might be an issue. The only problem might be getting the liquid shellac where it needs to go which is on the back side and not getting it on the hairspring. Usually the one dip cleaner is just for dipping not ultrasonic. Then is usually just for removing oil film not for aggressive removing of whatever you perceive your removing?

Face and hands can be replaced at any time but are only original once. Replace them and the value will drop. Nothing wrong with an old watch looking old.

That is a tall order. I would concentrate on giving the movement a good service. A good thing about Tudor is often spare parts of( lower grade) movements fit it so you are not all at the mercy of Tudor. I am not sure if a brand new genuine dial is out there to be found and yes any non genuine replacement will devalue the piece. Take pictures at every stage of disassembly and hopefully a data sheet is available. Good luck.

Watches UK has pictures of a similar-looking Tudor with a calibre 390 inside. I can't advise you, but your questions are the right ones.

Definitely keep the Elgin oil it supposedly last forever and it's extremely good. So good that it's prized by lots of people and still use today plus it was synthesized. I'm attaching the technical sheet for that. Then a newer lubrication guide from Omega 2017. A big Problem with horological lubrication guides they don't always tell the whole story? For instance if you look at ETA they recommend an awful lot of HP 1300 In locations like setting parts where I think grease Would be preferred. It's only when you get the newer tech sheets to find out that they surface treat basically the entire watch which allows them to get by with oil as it's not going to spread. Newer lubrication chart can be found at this link Which now brings up an amusing problem notice at the bottom of the page this "The Synt-HP oils are preferentially in use for ruby bearings. For brass bearings, we recommend Microgliss D-4 or D-5." http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/oils I was talking to somebody who works in the swatch service center and 9501 other than visible watches 9504 is preferred. The 9504 appeared on my bench last week and for just trying it on one of the pocket watches I banish the 9501 as this is better. the white high-pressure substance that they mix in does seem to do its job quite nicely at least for the one watch I tried. Interesting about the temperature reference for choosing 9010 or 9020. It rains a lot here I wonder if that qualifies? But somewhat joking aside if you do look at the lubrication specifications there are specifications for lubricants to be used in extremely cold locations plus those have to be surface treated or they will just spread away. But that's more like Arctic temperatures. Typically I work on pocket watches you will find on my bench is zero 9010. The light oil a choice is 9020 unless I'm doing a quartz watch than its 9000. Then yes I'm going against the world for the entire world believes 9010 is the universal balance wheel pivot oil. But amusingly if you look at the tech sheet it says the oil does not spread except everyone who uses it typically surfers treats the stuff related to balance pivots. Yes read the specifications for shock protected jewels they have been surface Treated. Eta even surfers treats their balance staff. Then as far as the world coming to the and sluggish amplitude I've never had that with 9020. Lubrication also becomes a personal choice and my personal choice for light oil is 9020. If you look at the horological data of escapement lubrication originally it was 9010. Then they moved to 941 at least on paper. That little reference is just because they had a lubrication for escapement's doesn't mean people gave up to 9010 and embraced the new 941. Then for the higher frequency watches 9415 came out. But don't know if was cheap watchmakers or cheap watch manufacturers? In that they soon went from the low-frequency watches have this the high-frequency have that to an either or situation. Then now 9415 is recommended for everything providing you apply it correctly and don't get carried away with too much. TS5500EN elgin oil.pdf Omega 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication cousins uk.pdf

Over multiple decades of wet and dry sanding I have always got confirmed what I was told on the 1st day: the markings are just an indication, if you like how it does and how long it lasts then buy more, otherwise just get something else.

I recently serviced a good runing vintage watch, with balance cock shimmed, Date written inside on the back plate indicated it was last service 18 years ago. Shimming is acceptabls as long as the jewel holes on both ends of the staff remain in line or shimming imposes no extra friction on pivots.and all else such as the impulse jewel so on work uneffected. You can shim to lower or raise the cock. Oris indented a cross on the train bridge to raise the cock. I can post a walkthrough, if this post is loved to death. Cheers.