Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

17 Good

About NewToWatches

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hmm. On mine, the 7S26 crown was screwed (and presumably glued) onto the stem. The threads of the stem were plainly visible,so it honestly never occured to me that unscrewing the stem would be a problem. I placed the stem in a pin vise, and unscrewed the original crown with very little fuss. The NH36 movement came with an extra threaded stem. so I assumed moving the 7S36 crown from one movement to the other was no big deal and an expected part of the changeover. Seems to be working fine with a little silicone grease on the stem and gasket. To be fair, I haven't pressure tested it and do
  2. Here ya go: https://www.esslinger.com/bergeon-4266-watch-crystal-remover-tool-crystal-lift-10-mm-to-45-mm/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1d0L72WLY7U
  3. Yup! The 7S26 crown worked fine. I used a bit of Jeweler's epoxy to affix the crown to the stem. If I had to remove it, I'd get out the heat gun and warm everything up. Most ordinary adhesives will soften under heat. I have been happy with how the project has turned out. Funnily enough, I had thought the day/date would have to be rejiggered with the change-over, but the watch has been running fine with no day/date problems.
  4. Wow! Stunning combo. So classy! Love the blue hands. May I ask the process that produced that blue?
  5. Thanks for the tips. Perhaps I will do that when I am up to servicing the 7S26 movement. In my case, the stem came with the new movement and the crown came with the 7S26. Nothing is as cheap as the part you already have. Always glad to hear from those who are more experienced (which at this point is nearly everyone).
  6. I bought a slightly modded Seiko SKX007 off of eBay, about which in general a more experienced man than I here aptly quoted Obi Wan Kenobi: "you will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy." LOL. To be fair, the watch was accurately described cosmetically, more or less, but I didn't take the time to read the description. One thing that wasn't entirely accurate was the representation that the watch "works well." Well, it did run, but not to expectations. The amplitude was low, the beat error high and the rotor felt sluggish. So what's a newby to do? Well, a full service of
  7. Sorry - the flat surface of, say, a bridge or plate on which a flat wheel or gear sits.
  8. LOL. Just trying to complete my first assessment. Stuck at 70%! Looks like it is going to be a long night and a good long while before I am up for polishing anything . . .
  9. I am about two thirds of the way through the first section of the Watch Repair Course, and I am getting used to seeing the careful dissection of the Seagull ST3620 portrayed there. One of the things that catches my eye about this movement though is the rough machining work on the various pieces. I get it: it is a mass produced movement made at a price point. But I am fighting the urge from other hobbies of mine to smooth obvious tool marks where I see them. I realize that it may be the investment of the wrong kind of time on the Seagull movement, which will never be an ETA movement, no mat
  10. Thanks folks: Google was helpful in searching for the WRT discussion, which was here: https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/10860-custom-decal-dial-tutorial/ I did try the site's search engine, but my search terms were too general. It was Klassiker's hint that put me over the top and let Google find the discussion here, so: many thanks for that!
  11. Really remarkable thread. Awesome to see an idea go from concept to reality. Just stunning :bthumb: !
  12. I have seen Mark's videos on refinishing and printing dials for his own projects. I would like to try something similar on some Seiko 5's, removing the factory dial, buying a brass blank from Esslingers (or similar) and then painting or enameling a white surface. I would then try Mark's technique of laser-printing and transferring a design of my own onto the dial. I want to try crafting something like a mid-century dial face -- think of a Hamilton Thin-o-Matic or a 1960's Seiko Sportsman or Alpinist. I need to know what materials to use to get a plain white face that will take a water-
  13. That might be interesting! Have a link to the seller? [Edit: Duh. I see you listed it. No need to reply]
  14. Modern microscopes (or dissecting scopes) usually use multiple lenses to enlarge an image. 10X (that is: "ten times normal") would be an ordinary eye-piece. The objective lens (sometimes there are several on a turret -- a compound microscope) have different focal lengths (like lenses on a camera) and you choose the one that gives you the magnification that works best for you. There are limits though. In general, higher magnification means less light hitting your eye (assuming your light source is constant) and a narrower field of view. So: "10X" is a fixed eyepiece that means "ten t
  15. Arrived today from Japan: A lovely Hamilton Jazzmaster Automatic. Nice clean lines, and is currently ticking away on the TimeGrapher: +13 s/day, Amplitude: 258 deg., Beat Error: 0.4 ms. in face up.
  • Create New...