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After a nice dinner and a short snooze, I think the mojo came back. The part that I previously suspected was in the wrong place, probably are. One can’t really see it from the picture but I don’t think the unlocking wheel bridge (7151) goes on with a setup like this, that part will poke up to much. The bridge should keep the wheels in place nice and flat. So, if you pick the pinion off the position where the ring is in the picture you should have an intermediate wheel left in place underneath it. There is a small hole in the pin holding the wheel in place. The slot milled beside the wheel houses the pointy spring part on the 7305. The smaller of the holes on the 7305 goes in the same place as the intermediate wheel so you have to lift that away when installing the 7305. When the 7305 is in place you put the wheel back. The 7292 is put in the hole with the flange on the 7305. To finish everything up you place the unlocking wheel bridge (7151) on the whole wheel train. The pointy part on the 7151 should point towards the winding stem. The 7151 is then screwed in place by three screws where off one goes into the hole where the 7294 now is placed.

@JohnR725 @rodabod the donor movement is in and running nicely. Traces are still a bit wavy, but good enough for a 50 year old Russian watch. Thanks for your help!

I think the BHI correspondence courses are worth considering for someone in your position, if doing Mark's course leaves you wanting to get deeper into it.

Quartz is generally not what I look for but this one sort of caught my eye. -

Not sure what the caliber number was, heard that Tudor has a movement made specifically for 58, but looked very similar to the pics and yes had the same type of balance setup. Screws were crosshead/Philip's style and as you can see very difficult to access in-situ with the tools I have. I either have to take the movement out of the case or take out the balance, non of which I was comfortable with doing to a brand new watch unless I had the whole afternoon. To be fair rates in all positions were within specification. He just wanted to see if I can't make it even more accurate. If the concern is whether or not it was fake/tampered, I can assure you, it was bought new straight from AD and had no signs of tamper. So Tudor has used thread lock, which I don't have too much of an issue with from an end user perspective. That threadlock would've stayed put until the next service had we not been naughty and tried to take the rotor off before then. From a watch tinkerers perspective though it is a bit annoying.

@HSL Couple of more snooze and this snooze alarm will actually ring. @markr will you take pictures as you go, how you finally reassemble this with success is a valuable walkthrough. Good luck.

Maybe I just don't "get" smart watches. OK maybe some of them look kinda cool, but what are they for? I'm not exactly a Luddite, since I've worked in IT most of my life, and "change management" is part of my daily workload, but the "advantages" that a SmartWatch gives me are not actually particularly useful in my estimation. I don't find the utility of a SmartWatch outweighs the hassle of actually having to pay for, own, and baby the thing all the time. They need charged all the time. I already have a smart phone that is just as demanding. They tell the time. Big deal, everything tells the time. They alert me when my smart phone needs my attention.. Big deal, so does my smart phone, so why strap a clumsy lump of plastic and glass to my wrist just to tell me my other clumsy lump of glass and plastic needs my attention? They tell me what my pluse is, how many steps I've taken today, what the weather is going to be... Big deal, I've got enough things badgering me about problems that aren't really problems without adding even more sources of random data to my already befuddled brain. Leave me alone. If I need to know my pulse, I'll take it. If I can't take my pulse, I'm probably already dead, and if I need to know what the weather is, I can look out of the window (assuming the unable to take my pulse situation doesn't apply). Obsessing about how many paces I've taken sounds more than a little bit... obsessive to me. I already know I should take more exercise, and an OLED screen and lithium battery strapped to my wrist isn't going to make me fitter. Sell it to me.. Someone. Why do I need a smart watch? Why does ANYBODY need a smart watch?

I would suggest picking up bags of replacement blades from Burgeon, and making a handle from scratch to your needs. You may want to alter diameter, length and other details to make them "yours", but I've learned that for the cost of ten-packs of replacement, polished and anti-magnetic blades, it's not worth me trying to re-hone and polish them, with finally demagnetizing them. They work out to a buck n change per blade. I can't make them for double that price, and they won't be as nice. I got some in recently, and I hadn't realized how magnetic the original (also Burgeon brand) blades were. Plus the replacements are very finely polished- really a joy to work with. Finer finishing for sure than the originally supplied blades. I do appreciate your desire to make everything, and I'm not discouraging you, but the blades are sort of like re-sharpening the blades for a carpet knife. Of course you can do it, and probably to a higher standard, but you will waste a month of your life making screwdriver blades you could spend making a rose engine for example. And you won't save a dime. I also make tools, where it makes sense to do so. But as I'm a bit older, and third generation "mechanic", I've learned sometimes it makes a lot more sense to buy certain things and make others. I am also not above altering tools as needed for a specific job. Plenty of expensive wrenches that have been heated red hot and bent to a specific angle for a specific job in the box. So, make the handles- get a piece of brass round stock (or 316 stainless) and have at it. But the bag of blades (I go through 1.2mm the most) and make up a handle. I'd even say: jewel the pivot at the end. Why not? And I got a set from Otto Frei several years ago, to replace the A-F set I started with. They have the colored plastic ends, rather than all metal like the ones you posted. I personally like the larger flared plastic ends, and larger color code area of them. Probably the easiest way to get all the dimensions you want, is to buy a single driver along with rodico, watch paper, oils etc. you will purchase anyway as consumables. Then you can use, feel, evaluate and change the driver to be perfect for you. More than two cents, but my thoughts on this...

You need to release the stud, that's the triangular piece, by loosening the screw, bottom right. Then you can remove the balance from the cock and clean and oil the jewels from the other side. There may even be screw heads there, to allow disassembly.

I wrote about such a tool somewhere else in the forum which I called a "regulator arm tool". It can be easily made from an old screwdriver. It straddles the regulator arm from the top, so that reduces the chance of slipping and damaging the hairspring. It also gives much better torque control allowing very small adjustments of the arm.

Found this and it's being delivered today. Unfortunately I don't know the model or if it's running. Seller doesn't know a thing about watches so she wasn't any help. From what I can tell the back should read Milus 17 jewel Incabloc Stainless steel back Swiss made And some numbers but I won't know what until it comes. It wasnt much so I thought it was worth a shot. Any ideas as to the year and model, I'm unable to find another like it... Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Beautiful watch, now I want one!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Risk of mishap is greatly reduced if the regulator and stud arms can be moved smoothly, I often remove/ clean and make sure both function correctly before disassembly.

Where I live in Australia, there is one watchmaker that comes up in an inter web search. There are a fair few in Melbourne, and none south of Geelong that I could find. I made some enquiries about watch making courses that would be the technical lesson part of a four year apprenticeship. And yep, I would have looked at it if I could have. The only place in Australia that came up was in Ultimo in Sydney. And they have just suspended their course. A phone call to the Watch & Clock Association of Australia was even more demoralising. On top of them saying that a lot of companies will not even supply their parts to independent watch makers (which I have also read about on here), they are beginning to see a lot of people just buying something, running it into the ground and then buying something else. It appears now that the only option is living in Switzerland for 3 years and parting with $50k AUD for the WOSTEP course. Even doing Mark Lovick's course would not aid in getting any sort of employment here as everyone wants a traded watch maker and I completely understand that. So along with all car industry leaving our shores, it appears that watch making is fast following it up. Maybe I can win Lotto and then I'll take the lovely wife, go live in Switzerland, do the course and be able to stop working for a manager that if I saw on fire I would bite a fuel tank open on a car to assist the conflagration.