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One interesting part with watch repair is the bit of tips and tricks one get from such a wide variety of people as in this forum. I realize you will have a ton of questions as you proceed with your project. To glue anything from the front on a dial isn't a easy task to pull off, hence why they glue it from the back on the factory, it is a too big risk in failing with applying the right amount of glue. Just wee too much and the dial and the logo is trash. So to answer as many questions as possible at once I have made a small walk through on a similar watch I found in one of my project boxes. Unfortunately I could with a quick look see what was wrong with it and why it was left to be unloved. Even though the case and dial is different the logo and the movement in these are the same. Here is the walk through in PDF format, just so you get a feel of the task ahead and what tools are needed. As for the tool bit you soon will get a feel of which is in your taste and which you prefer to modify to fit just you. And remember this isn't the ultimate way, just one that works for me. A quick and dirty walkthrough of fixing a loose Seiko logo on a Kinect.pdf

I just finished completely taking apart this nice little Rockford 16s P/W Mod.#2 made in 1903. Mostly it was very dirty & the mainspring was broken. (and no hands)It only has 11jewels , but I really like Rockfords. It is also a private label "Chronometer Nacional" Has anyone heard of that. It is a pendent set & wind model. The guy who sold it broke or lost the winding return spring. So he made one out of a paper clip. Well, you can imagine how well that worked. So I took one from an old movement and its up and running and pretty as a picture. In fact here are some pictures.

Bingo! I would never have thought to look at a scientific supply company. When I bought my first gross 20 years ago several watch supply houses had them. They are perfect for storing movement, wrist watches and many pocket watch movements. I wrap the movements in tarnish preventing watch paper and put a cotton pad on top and bottom for cushion. (The round cotton pads ladies use to remove makeup available at walmart for next to nothing.) Never had a movement rust or tarnish and they are super protected. Thanks everybody, Dan.

+1 to that. Ultrasonic and chemical cleaning will remove a heck of a lot of "stuff", but there are times when a bit of manual intervention is necessary. I have a brass, steel and fiberglass scratch pen set (cheap 'n Chinese, from ebay, as is everything these days it seems). The brass pen works well on stainless cases, as it is softer than the steel, so doesn't scratch the finish, but will remove even the most stubborn bits of ancient DNA and fossilized chicken soup.

I think he means this sort.

A good fitting screwdriver I found does the trick.

I can never understand why one spends so much time in trying to polish, if the mark is not very deep there are many componds to use, but if the marks are deep buy a new crystal.

Here are two new links. I bought both so they are mine. https://www.mediafire.com/file/mz809lm3bms8zk3/bestfit_part1.pdf/file https://www.mediafire.com/file/eqbhdor949r0ilp/bestfit_part2.pdf/file You will need this pasword to open each volume. tickandtock Sorry I didn't know zippy was now full of crap. If you have adblocker you might need to disable it for mediafire. These are safe I have tested them.

Try reading this link: http://calibercorner.com/miyota-caliber-0s10/ One of the items on the page is a .pdf of the movement drawings. It's a good place to start as it will give you the dimensions so that you can determine your case needs. The OS10 movement is 13.5 ligne whereas the V657 is 12.75 ligne in size. Your movement selection will be too large for that case. The only listed use for that movement that I could find was in Skagen watches although there were most likely other brands that used it. Any particular reason why you've chosen that movement?

To be fair guys nothing beats a Loup and the eyeball but this can be used for servicing, the base is a bit slippy but attaching the aforementioned card will sort that, the camera cannot be angled so it’s vertical I’m afraid. The magnification is adjustable by moving it up or down, at the highest point it is more than acceptable to use for servicing.