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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/19/18 in Posts
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Hi All, Now, to start with I should say that my watch repaires are nowhere near the caliber (......see what i did there?) of some on this forum, but everyone started somehwhere right? Up until now I have been into costmetically restoring watches that run but have been somewhat unloved. Out of that I have started getting into the mechanical side too, I'm currently building up a FL Twin Power movement (one that I did not take apart) using the age old "yep, that seems to fit there" and "hmm that doesn't look quite right" methods! Some resources on this very forum have also been extremely useful. I can get the odd dead watch re-started, but a full strip down, service and rebuild is where i would like to get to. As i say mainly cosmetic work, the interest for me is taking something that looks completely unloved and turning into something that will be cherished. My watches have been bought for birthday presents, wedding presents, something that's being bought specifically to hold onto and pass down to the next generation, and that's what it's all about for me. Anyway, some examples for y'all Hamilton Self-Winding: Stunning Louis Erard Triple Date: Longines: Omega Geneve (never did try to sort that bottom lug out just in case): Oris 15 Jewel: Oris Super: Roamer Popular: Rotary 17 Jewel GP: 70s Seiko Auto: Seiko SeaHorse: Tissot Visodate Seastar Seven: Tudor: Old Timex: Thought I'd leave it there as you're probably getting a bit bored That's probably about 10% of the watches I've done over the past couple of years!! In terms of my own 'keepers', I don't actually have that many. A couple below: Tissot Seastar that I fell in love with the moment i put it on: Oversized Tissot Antimagnetique, which i sold and then pretty much begged the buyer to sell back to me. Which he did.....but failing to mention that hands were fused together. So i wound it not realising, and it's now broken and slightly in bits In the future I'd very much like to aquire a genuine military issued chronograph, that will be my significant investment watch i think. Hope you like! Matt
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the required tools may very for the type of watch you want to work on. vintage wind up, modern and battery driven, ( clocks etc.).. start with the bare minimum. vin2 points
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Hello from Scotland. I recently re-awakened an interest from my youth in watches and clocks. Strangely the catalyst was searching for a replacement hand for a Starrett dial indicator that I picked up for pennies on ebay and which I though might be useful for leveling the bed on my 3d printer. It was missing the dial hand, which looked very like a watch second hand, so that led to a search for a suitable donor watch. Needless to say I then got distracted by the vast array of old time pieces to be had for pennies, and grabbed a couple of basket cases. The first one was a Sicura Voyageur. It only says Voyageur on the dial, but it has all the hallmarks of a Sicura, with the seahorse emblem on the caseback, and the remains of hands that look like the Sicura "Marine Star" It was in a sorry state, but after a quick clean, polish and minor overhaul it's Rondo-matic heart is now ticking away nicely. I'm awaiting a suitable second hand for that, currently on the slow boat from China, and it has parted company with its bezel, which I may fabricate a replacement for if I get the time. The problem there is that I can't find another "Voyager" to compare with, and Sicuras had a variety of different bezels. I found WRT by watching some of Mark's many excellent Watch Repair Channel videos, many thanks for those Mark. I have a couple of other basket case watches ordered from ebay. I set myself an artificial ceiling of £4.04 per watch (although I have already blown that a couple of times), as I figured that there was a lot of fun to be had from resurrecting an item destined for landfill and costing less than a trip to the coffee shop. My day job involves computers, and I dabble in electronics as a hobby, which means I'm fairly patient, and used to dealing with very small fiddly components, and already have a bunch of small tweezers, screwdrivers, clamps, magnifiers and so on.
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i now get it, i had to read it about 4 times to get my head round it but i do now understand. thankyou for taking the time to explain it. if only everything in life were simple and and a set standard.1 point
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I'm assuming this is a one off request for help rather than joining the forum due to an interest in horology and watch repair. I will be very surprised if you can find any ready made adaptor to allow you to fit a regular type of strap to this watch. Possibly searching on EBay you may come across a suitable strap or a broken or damaged watch that you could liberate the strap from.1 point
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Welcome, enjoy the forum. Genuine Rolex parts are like gold dust. Trust me I speak from experience.1 point
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What’s the betting the hands got turned back. I need to see the back plate before committing myself on how to set it right. Junghans made so many different types of movements.1 point
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Thanks Mark. I have bookmarked that site so I can help other members on here with such repairs.1 point
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It's a very easy repair for any competent jeweller to be fair. Especially as it has not broken completely so does not need re-aligning. You should do a search on the NAJ website for a local jeweller... http://www.naj.co.uk/en/member-services/member-search.cfm1 point
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There are other breaking greases out there Moebius 8212, 8213 & 8217.. I have a link to the website. Then application of p-125? This is really really sticky grease and if you apply too much it's too sticky. To understand this I have some images attached you can see just very tiny amounts are used spaced around the barrel. Because if you go excessive it doesn't want to slip almost at all. There are Mysteries to breaking grease? If you look at Henry's formula basically it's graphite or molybdenum disulphide Mixed into a heavy watch oil. If you look at the description on the website link below for the lubricants I mention above each one has specific properties for aluminum barrel or brass barrel or the other one that sees you more generic but unique properties. Then you also noticed that they have other greases that are lubricating not breaking with molybdenum disulphide Then don't remember which lubrication was used or whether we used too much.. Some of these if you use too much there actually too slippery. So too slippery or zero breaking which you would have with the over-the-counter lubricant that's meant to lubricate not break would cause the following? It's the weird end of the automatic spring that holds it in place when the rest of the spring winds up the end part pulls away the spring slips This is where the molybdenum disulphide Comes in its the high-pressure lubricants. Then after releasing a little power it's supposed to stop but if you have a really nice lubricant in their it's not stopping you lose a whole lot of power. So the tube is cheap try an experiment. The worst case I can see is it's going to slip too much you'll probably need an auto winder as it probably won't have enough power to go overnight. http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases
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Welcome Rattleviper, Yes, build the watch and I reckon it will be fine. You are doing very well. I have several watches and access to my grandsons collection of mainly fine watches. I wear a fake Rolex quartz with a Ronda movement with asservicement bought in Singapore and it is a wonderful timekeeper, after all that is what a watch is for. The rest I service for others. Regards. Mike.1 point
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morningtundre is right. Get it gold soldered. The higher the carat the softer the gold. You need to have it repaired properly.1 point
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Looks like the type of thing you would find in a morgue.1 point
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Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.1 point
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Hi Alex, Welcome and keep going, Help is at hand here if you need it, Regards, Mike.1 point
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You're doing the right thing investigating and finding your way around an inexpensive movement to start with! It's difficult to say if there may be other problems. This is a simple and sturdy pin lever movement but if there was an incident that was violent enough to break the pins from the pallet fork that doesn't bode well! My attention was also immediately drawn to the fact that there would normally be a jewel in that balance wheel but you have none .... however a quick check shows the EB 8800 came in 0, 1, 17 and 21 versions so you must have the base model with no jewels. It is possible to still get spare parts for vintage movements. If you go to https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/eb-movement-parts for instance and select 8800 as the EB Calibre Number and then click 'Search For Items' you'll see all the parts it's possible to get for your 8800. These are prices ex-VAT and you'd need to factor in postage. You can see that you'll soon rank up a bill where just the spares outweigh the whole value of your movement so... ... assuming you want to continue then your best bet would be to source another (or more than one) spare 8800 movement from a site like ebay and then exchange parts as necessary i.e. make one good movement from the two (or move) movements you have.1 point
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I’d recommend taking it to a jewelers to ask about gold solder. Epoxy could be messy and usually ends up where you don’t want it. Beautiful watch and worth doing properly IMO... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Hi iMango, Bless my soul! What ever is going on? Watch looks OK but straps, adhesives, and now a dremel ? It appears to be a simple job to me, clean it all up and NOT with the dremel, then fit a decent leather strap. Regards, Mike.1 point
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Hi Zeb Not in favour of kits as they come bundled with tools you may never use, Bergeon tools are great but if you are just starting out best not splash out on the expensive kit first, just get the basics good tweezers in several sizes and styles movement holders ,case openers etc and build up slowly but get the best you can afford and tailor to suit your needs. hope that helps.1 point
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Need a pic of the movement. The set up of the Westminster chime is important to achieve the correct sequence. The hour chime is just a matter of removing the hour hand and putting it back at the correct hour.1 point
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Thanks measuretwice - I can hear my Grandfather explaining all that to me when I was too young to really understand... but it mostly sank in, along with the awkward convention that a 1/4 whitworth spanner referred to a spanner to fit a standard bolt head found on a 1/4” bolt, not the measurement across the spanner jaws!1 point
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For anyone that's not sure how there supposed to be using the coil type demagnetizer this is what Omega recommends. Then even though it's in the picture I'm going to quote some text "Demagnetisation according to the three axes x, y and z is necessary when using this type of instrument. Do not release the instrument when the object is inside the tunnel as it could finish up being more magnetised than before." Then you will notice in the fine print a minimum of 50 cm away from the coil before you take your finger off the button and five seconds to get to the 50 cm.
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Thanks guys! All of those watches are one that I've bought, restored and then sold on. I don't 'do' other people's watches as I'd still consider myself an amateur and wouldn't want the responsibility/liability of handling someone else's watch!1 point
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Hi everyone, I have an old verge fusee watch for repair with separate outer case. The bottom pic and on the right is an early English lever, again chain drive and fusee. I have cleaned it and repaired the MS and made adjustment to what I still call the potence cock bearing to set the balance free with a touch of end shake. Need a HS and collet now and then we will see. The Verge will be the next job between customers. Why do I bother ???? Interesting ?? Pics herewith. Both gifted to me.
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