Leaderboard

So I played a bit in Solidworks, and this is what I got. A friend of mine helped me with the 3D printing. sup_2.STL mic 2.STL pesa.STL sup_1.STL the editables: mic 2.SLDPRT pesa.SLDPRT sup_1.SLDPRT sup_2.SLDPRT ansamblu2.SLDASM

Well done Tony. Install the new incabloc lyre spring and end stone first, so that you have a clean and correctly lubricated sub-assembly. Gently press the block back into the balance cock with the regulator components up the right way and in the correct order. Double check and check one again. You can’t press any further than ‘home’ but don’t over do it. When you get onto Russian movements, the shock spring is similar but the hinge is installed from inside, so sympathetically designed for replacement if it becomes brittle and breaks. Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At the link below picture of the special tools used for removing the setting and putting it back. Also the cross references found here. http://www.incabloc.ch/en/pieces_rechanges.php

I will have another look tomorrow (family commitments). In the mean time could you take a clearer pic of the assembly as it looks like the regulator arm might need removing which will be a pain.

So I did some checking and not finding any information in my Illinois material or online I went old school. I let the power down and slowly wound it back up until I had an observable 180° swing on the balance, and sure enough 45° lift angle was pretty much spot on. The measured amplitude now is still a respectable 309°, and the daily rate is -0.6 sec/day....thanks for the info @JohnR725

Quoting myself. This pin can be pulled out. But need to be careful not pulling to much. If parts fall out it's very tricky to get them back in place. Very small parts. But need to loose it a little to get the hairspring in. Unfortuntely the balance i had didn't work. But new parts are on the way.

That is no problem. Beat error can be adjusted by moving the complete regulator.

I was just shown how to do this tonight. To do it properly you need a jeweling tool The regulator and other split ring you need to remove from the top. You then set up the jeweling tool as if to press the setting out the top and zero it off. You now set the mircometer to press out the setting only 0.1 to 0.2mm and press the setting to lift it up, but not remove it. Now with the setting slightly proud you should be able to easily remove the broken spring through the opened up gap and fit the new one, then press the setting back in. As the setting has a lip on the top of it you cant press it back in to far.

Worked they way @khuntersaid . Rolled it out by turning the knob. Now i just need to put the roller table and hairspring over to the other balance wheel.

Is that actually a set of adjustable curb pins (for centring?). Reminds me of the Cyma Cal 234 with adjustable stud. Do you think the stud is press-fitted? On many cyclinder movements, you just support the balance cock and press the stud out with tweezers it can be a bit scary, and it makes height adjustment difficult.

53.92mm works out to 23.9 lignes, or almost a 29s......not sure if this helps or not....

Ok No big news just replaced my first watch Crystal ...Came out perfect ...I thought for sure, I would crack at least one.

Thanks ..I get the fact I can use a generic ... But in case, for whatever reason, I want to use an original part I know how and where to find it. For instance I do not have access to the watch to measure and would like to place the order before it arrives. I would be able to know the size I need to order a generic if that's the route I wanted to go. I can find Car parts, electronic parts or just about anything else. It seems you have to jump through a lot of hoops to find watch parts. Hell I wouldn't even mind if I found out the part was discontinued, at less I can end the search. Shouldn't there be a parts list somewhere for all watches produced especially the newer ones. Its easier to find 100 year old pocket watch parts