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I’m not entirely convinced about manufacturer’s shelf life dates being used to decide whether or not an oil is still good to use or not.

I bought myself a car dent removal tool and tried it today on a few pocket watches i had with good dents. Worked great. Just tap frequently and use the right size end depending on the diameter of the dent. They work the tool in small circles around the dent or back an forth for long line dents. Here are my results. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Very interesting... Thanks for the heads up!

Search here or on google "release stem".

Correct. I did not check, seems like the bezel is removable, no pump needed. I agree with Ishima, do not try DYI that, too easy to scratch or otherwise ruin it.

oh, i just found it actually, okay looks to be regular quartz, not solar. and the front should be removable by prying off, it's also a little less expensive than i assumed so I could understand some reluctance in going through a Skagen workshop, however, I will re emphasize this could go horribly wrong for you without the right experience and tools.

Some models of Skagen are sneaky, i did a little bit of googling for this model but could not find it. I was considering that it might even be solar powered, i've come across two skagens that were solar powered but did not state anywhere on the outside of the watch that it was, and they both had that line on the back with the model name in the lower right hand of the line. Honestly if you can't find a watch specialist who's competent to do this I strongly suggest returning to manufacturer. http://www.skagen.com/us/en/service-information.html However, I will say that it is very likely that the crosshead screw on the back comes off to expose 'the setting lever' which can be pressed to release the winder and from there once you have the front off it should be possible to drop it out.

Under the screw should be the stem release point.

Check video: or search "front loader" on this forum.

Probably best replacing entire spring with one with a built-in auto bridle as you have done.

Just want to thank all of you, especially@svorkoetter, for this diy timegrapher. Finally finished my amplifier combining the circuit of@svorkoetter and@wlysenko. But I have to read on all the replies to gather all the lessons learned and best practices. Hats off to all of you who contributed to this post. Now, on to improving the sensor part... Happy New Year! Sent from my ASUS_Z010D using Tapatalk

It would help for our understanding if we can have a picture of the dial without the hour wheel in place. A lot of times with watches with sweep second hands it changes how the Canon pinion functions. Sometimes there is a offset drive. For instance I've attached a picture one of yours notice I circled a gear? You don't find this with the normal Canon pinion it looks like a drive wheel. Then look at the gear side notice the mainspring barrel driving the center wheel which isn't in the center? The gear looks like it correspondence with the center wheel that's not in the center? So as a guess here Your pinion isn't on the dial side the friction point is somewhere else.

If the second hand isn't fused to the 4th wheel arbor, it should put that kind of stress on the back of the jewel. If it is fused, and can't be coaxed off the arbor without stressing jewel, maybe you could put a drop of thin oil, penetrant, on the top of the second hand, where the arbor passes. Maybe that would loosen the bond to make removal easier. That said, again, under normal circumstances, it shouldn't be that hard to remove the second hand. Good luck.

All the recent synthetic Moebius oils I’ve purchased have a relative short shelf life; e.g, 2023 so if that’s anything to go on it would mean replacing your oils. I buy mine from a French seller on ebay as they are less than the main suppliers in the UK. Hope that helps. Happy New Year!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk