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Hand wind the spring in is easier. Never used m/spring winders for watches. I could never get on with them.

I mean if you really want to play around fixing basic quartz movements you should probably find something with the common Miyota 2035 or similar, easy to find and everything comes apart and goes back together, with screws. I don't think it's possible to repair a plastic-riveted movement. Also, as has been said, this is a replica watch.

It is a Morioka Tokei movement and all of the electronic parts are missing. You can probably find a similar one in another inexpensive watch if you have some lying around. The other issue is that the watch does not look genuine in any manner becoming a Rado. I have run into more counterfeit Rados than genuine ones on the secondary market. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I took a photograph of a few Macchina Sportiva case backs and took measurements of the text, the logo panel and diameter of the text relative to the panel and case back. I then edited and recreated the Logo panel in Gimp. I recreated the circular text using the same font as a layer. Then I created a black background layer the same overall size of the case back. The artwork was the laser printed onto a transfer film ready for transferring to the case back. Obviously, printers do not print white text. Therefore, I used an acid etch primer on the case back before painting it with an off white background for the text. The transfer was then applied and baked on. A few coats of matte lacquer was then applied to seal and finish it off. This is not one for the faint hearted, it needs a lot of patience.

Enjoy the forum Etron

You will need to remove the crystal to measure it. It will most likely push out from the inside with a firm push with your thumb

I've finally got round to redoing the case back for this watch. Now it's looking pretty good. The original was probably a screen print over the finish. I used the photos of the original to redo artwork before applying it to the back. I apologise for the blurry photo.

PJA: I blended a little of the thinner and paint so the paint was fluid enough to just fill up the numbers, leaving some translucent muddy pools over and around the number grooves here and there. On some numbers it just neatly filled without anything overflowing. Sometimes I added a little more paint on the brush and dipped it again in a number if it was too weak. Let it sit like that for just maybe 2-5 minutes then took a piece of paper towel and wiped off the excess. This did indeed pull out some of the paint in the process but I'll just do several layers until satisfied. Seems to work fine so far. I'm not sure how many layers I'll do but I of course want an even look. That might be hard unless I go "all the way" and make it heavy black in the end. We'll see.

any thing that helps the " day job" keep going till retirement. welcome to the forum.

This issue has been covered before on this forum. It seems you have to wind the spring with it cover off until it slides into position. I don,t know what spring winder you are using but is it possible to position the T end into barrel slot before releasing. The other thought is to hand wind the spring in.

well, it has took me some time but i have a functional watch again. I have polished the best i could, i am happy for my first watch repair.Don't know if i said that in another post, but this old watch belonged to my father so it has some sentimental value for me. Thanks guys for the hints.

I'm doing my first steps in dynamic poising these days and for me this page was very helpful to understand the what and why: http://adjustingvintagewatches.com/category/dynamic-posiing/