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I’ve just bought myself this Unimat 3 lathe with loads of add-ons including milling attachment est to have cost around £2000 the seller was asking £890 I made an offer of £750 which the seller has excepted. Many parts have not been out of there boxes and never used. I have been thinking over the past few days about starting some clock repairs as a hobby. My eyesight is not that good but I have been tinkering around with a few old movements and getting the feel of things and I am enjoying myself. When it arrives, I will take better pictures and I will be able to explain about all the extras.

I was thinking that if we were to do a wet test, if the watch has pressurised air in it, when we depressurise, is it possible the glass could get pushed out? also, say you tape the crown down on a basic watch, wouldnt the tape invalidate the test, as in the real world the watch wont have the tape present?

These type of pins can either have screw in ends or friction fit push in ends if its a cheap quartz type watch I would guess they are the friction fit type and the ends should just pull out.

The twin flags logo and "Competition" name where registered trademarks of West End Watch Co/Droz, Amstutz and co. The name Competition was also registered to Benrus but not the twin flags logo so your watch is of West End production and typical of the 1960's to late 70's there where various versions produced including automatic's with day and date. They first started to use the name on their pocket watches around 1910 the twin flags where not registered until 1938.

Hi all, I just got my hands on a Ricoh automatic and am currently working on it. Its all dismantled and taken apart and I'll be starting to clean it and put it back together again. Coincidentally another member here 'arkobugg' is also working on the same movement and posed a question here about the set-lever spring.. isn't that funny? I haven't really given serious thought about this particular movement and when I bought it I was thinking that it was an uncommon movement and along comes another one! Anyway here are some pictures from the eb@y seller.. pictures show the watch is externally rough but internal parts are quite ok and worth a gamble, besides I like the 'split-day/date' displays. When I got it I found the dial was in bad shape.. the applied RICOH logo was bent/broken as well...ah well... The date-pusher was jammed up and I was hoping that the spring inside was ok as it seems to be a rivetted construction. After a soak and some vigorous scrubbing and a few blasts of WD-40 followed by soap and more brushing it seems to be ok now. I'll probably have a go at putting it back together again this weekend and I'll be sharing some pictures here. cheers Anilv

Hi everyone, I was asked to take a look at a broken Nautica watch. I tried a fresh battery and fair enough, it doesn't run. Closer inspection revealed a broken part on the setting lever (???) (not sure this term applies to quartz movements, there are lots of parts in there that don't look like anything I'm used to). Turns out the movement is a Timex m649. So I looked around the usual places for a replacement: Otto Frei, cousinUK, Esslinger.... and the EvilBay but no luck. I's either not available or marked obsolete. I'm was hoping to find a chart with an equivalent movement or the new version of the movement but no luck. I'm trying to get watch to tick more than I want the indiglo function to work if that makes any difference (althought it comes from the dial, not the movement apparently). Would anybody have any idea what I could replace this movement with?

Yes. But in cheap testers the pressurization is always relatively slow since the pump is operated by hand, instead the depressurization is done with a quite crude valve, so it's easy to let air out too fast. Some risk exists.

I think it has come back because of my involvement on here. I love helping out. So I blame this forum in helping me part with my hard earned cash.

I think they are the same. Cousins has Hattori Y 121 listed with the code Y 121M. J

Just popped a couple on my latest Cousins order, looks useful!

Its usaualy no problem as long as you set in the right posision...

These are the diameters of the hand openings....

You don't have to take the movement completely apart, but you do have to remove the hands and the dial if you're thinking of replacing the movement. That dial (along with the hands) will be needed on the new movement. Its not as difficult as it sounds. Take a look at some videos on how to remove watch hands and dial. Once you've removed the dial, a confirmation of the dial feet position will be needed before you buy the Hattori Y121. J

Use your index finger on the other hand to cover it up lightly when trying to install it. This way it won't jump around. Just don't press too hard to bend it.