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Absolutely Roger, it is a Kif Flector and you turn it to remove.

Well, then the problem is not with the balance. Check the gear train without pallet fork and balance first! If You give it a small winding at the crown it should spin fast at the escape wheel. If ok, then check the pallet fork pinions are in the jewels if the pallet bridge is back in place and the screw is tightened. If the pallet still not moving easily, then check the pivots! Are they bent? Is there any grease left in the pallet hole jewels? No oil needed here. Maybe to much oil or dirt on the escape wheel teeth? Also check the balance without pallet fork mounted for free swinging. Dont move to other movement until You solved this, or at least discovered the problem!

The cycle of sooner and later for one of the pallets looks around 15 beats long.... Is the escape wheel looking ok? I'd maybe have a look under close magnification.

The guy i made the stem for just put the watch together and reported all working fine He has to grind down from the thread.

Nothing is wrong with it. Leave it alone, and wear it with pride.

Sorry, how and why a watch could run fast with lose/slipping cannon pinion ?

I think it will try to "climb" over the "housing" once you turn and one of the lobes find the indentation. Just like the Seiko but with 4 lobes...kind of. I'm not good at explaining, hope you get the picture. Careful don't break it or let it go - use the tool or pegwood -- they tend to spring away...Very important to keep this in mind also when re-assembling. A broken spring gives a weird pattern in the timegraph.

As mentioned before, with 100 degree less than the normal amplitude, pattern has no significance. Amplitude is the first and foremost paramenter to be looked on the timegrapher. No correct timekeeping can be had below 200 deg.

And the proper volume setting would be 11

Ladies watches just dont sell especially watches of that era they are just too small for todays market, I had a ladies Omega 9ct gold watch dating from the early 70's a really nice watch quality movement and good condition looked after and no doubt cherished by the original owner, bearing in mind that modern ladies gold Omegas are in the 10's of thousand now how much would you value a 1970's solid gold one at ? well it's quite simple really scrap, thats all you can get for them, in my case that was £280.00 being on a solid bracelet and weighing 26 gramms without the movement.Of course there are exceptions to this such as rarity or make but most gold ladies watch are worth scrap. I could have stuck it on ebay at £350.00 but it would not have sold look at how many there are on ebay as apposed to how many actually sell and the picture becomes clear. The watch you have is typical of the period 1920-1930, as already stated the movement is not the original no ladies watch of that period would have had shock protection it is what you would expect to find in a make such as Rotary in the 60's If the watch has sentimental value and your sister actually wants to wear it then get it repaired and enjoy it. But it's value is nothing more than the weight of the platinum if indeed it is platinum, no value can be put on the diamond chips thay are worthless, so in the watch case removing movement strap and glass you will probably have 4 or 5 grams of platinum currently around £18.00 a gram depending on purity thats it's worth.

as a collector of Ladies watches, your not going to want to know. pretty much you won't get the money you put into it back unless its something very deco in style and thats because deco collectors will drive the price up (elgin & gruens of the period with color enamel). you'll most likely get scrap value if you're lucky. if it has no sentimental value, list it on fleabay as is and let someone else deal with it. Platinums of the period I've seen go as low as USD$120 - just try pick up a mens for that price!

Spending a pleasant Sunday afternoon overhauling a Rolex 3135 at home, nice to work on as it goes together so well with bridges practically falling into place.

Don't get disheartened Dave we all have to learn and its all about learning keeping calm and learning the nature of the tools your using You'll get there and when you first see that you've managed to get that balance swinging freely I can guarantee you will feel like a God.

I don't think that the MS is slipping. Do not assume always that poor amplitude is due to the MS, in my experience, in most cases, it is not. Reference article http://watchguy.co.uk/service-allaine-felsa-1560/

I had trouble loading a few pics ,...my bad... so here they are.

I'm feelin' Retro today... I think I'll do a Double Header.. Starting off with a snazzy blast from the past with this water resistant Seiko 5 automatic 6119 - 5411 , ser. # 223055. I must like this watch because I wear it a lot . Very comfortable on the wrist . It was pretty shabby looking when I first got it , so I serviced it , cleaned the case and bracelet , Re-finished the case and put a nice satin finish , extended the bracelet with a spring loaded expansion link , and installed a new Seiko crystal . For the second half of the Double Header , up to bat is this Seiko 5 automatic 6119 - 6023 , ser. # 022685 . This one is a Sports Water70 Proof model . It "Sports " an inner rotating bezel . I serviced it , polished the hardlex glass crystal , gave the case a light polish , and finished it off with a rubber two tone band . Black with a blue accent on the edges to compliment tne dial .

Hello everyone! The title is quite apt as I haven't worn a watch in some 30 years since I was a child; I always found them a bit uncomfortable. However I now seem to be making up for lost time and after being bought a nice watch as a present recently and liking wearing it I've been on a bit of a spree ... ably assisted with the bad influence of ebay. What I've actually found I enjoy doing is buying a movement; dismantling it and reassembling to make it work again ... and then actually making it into a watch by pairing up a case, dial, hands etc. I've made two watches already and am wearing one of those today! Okay these may never be classed as horological masterpieces but as I have a quite full-on day job I've found working on watches in my spare time very therapeutic and satisfying. And it's given me a good excuse to buy some nice tools and stuff too; a chap can never have enough tools and gadgets! What has boosted my confidence in doing this have been some of Mark's truly excellent videos. The quality of these and his calm soothing voice and dexterity make anything seem possible! I've now got a reasonable selection of movements, cases and so forth to make up some other 'one-of-a-kind' watches. Just warning everyone as I may amuse you all with my efforts along the way!

So I fixed it. What I did is ream the hole out bigger; did not have small enough files. Then I put a small bend at the end of the spring where the hole is. Then when I wound it into my bench spring winder, I made sure that when I loaded the spring into the barrel, that the wall hook had hooked the hole in the spring. Then I slowly released it. I then capped the barrel and hooked the arbour, loaded the centre pinion into the barrel (strange design) and sliped the lot into the movement and reassembled it. Using a bench key, I slowly turned the ratchet and the centre arbour hooked the spring. I u continued to wind, there was no slipping. TaDa DONE. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk