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Dont give up, you dont need that... if you can do that two wires then you can do the rest... find a 230V bulb and a 60 degree klixon-thermostat. there is a lot of them out there... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-UNIVERSAL-INDICATOR-RED-LIGHT-NEON-ELECTRIC-BULB-PUSH-INN-SNAP-FIT-230V-/322441068293?hash=item4b12fc3f05:g:aVcAAOSwuxFYuc7o http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KSD301-NC-60-degree-10A-Thermostat-Temperature-Switch-Bimetal-Disc-KLIXON-/141462899540?hash=item20efd88b54:g:hx0AAOSwhQhY3prT follow this simple but useful diagram and it will work!!! You must fasten the klixon to the heating chamber you might need a 40 degree depending on where you can place it...

I've not been buying watches recently, but couldn't resist this lovely US-made Bulova from 1944 - the year of my birth. It's in a 14k, rose gold-filled case, and has a very nice Grade 8-AH movement inside. It's the usual dimensions for a watch of this period: 41mm lug to lug, and 21mm wide. Small by today's standards, but that doesn't bother me - I wear any size. This was an eBay purchase. The seller has a beautiful collection of mainly vintage Bulova watches. If I had more money, I'd have bought one or two more. I won't give details publicly as the site policy is not to promote watch sales or sellers, but if anyone is really interested in looking at his vintage Bulova watches, PM me.

I'm seeing more and more of these, 6R15s almost new which exhibit a poor pattern or performance. This one, manuf. Apr. '14 was spinning 210 deg. face up, dropping to about 170 in other positions. What I do in these cases is let them wind down (to avoid removing the auto bridge), remove balance jewels, balance and pallet fork. Leave these parts 5 minutes in rectified gasoline (got in 1L bottle from an otherwise useless local supplier), applied 9010 to the stones, and put it back together. Takes less than 30 minutes. Picture taken before regulation.

Hi Ho, I just bought a Citizen EcoDrive with a 8729 movement. I tried Ofrei and a few other sites, however none of them list a capacitor for the 8729. Anyone know the Panasonic model number or which supplier might have them ?

As asked and answered before already: I do lubricate the stones of the pallet fork with with a very small amount of 9010, which is what Seiko recommends, they call it "Moebius A". Attached service sheet. 6R15B.pdf

Sounds like you're on a mission . Good Luck . Be very careful with the plastic pivots .

Agree with the Diashock. I cleaned and oiled my first one recently and it was a breeze! [emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use VM&P (Varnish Makers and Painters) Naptha for cleaner, and anhydrous(no water) isopropyl alcohol for rinse. Generally a light petroleum distillate will work as a solvent on the oils and dirt in a watch. Something like Naptha or what we call "White Gas" (Coleman, or camp stove, fuel) here in the states. Just be careful with alcohol, it can dissolve the shellac that holds pallet and roller jewels in place. Also, a little bit of heat is good when drying the parts, I use a hair dryer. The idea is to keep water from condensing on the parts as the alcohol dries and the parts cool.

Mate all I can say and this is through experience of being on a budget and trying to find a cheaper way of cleaning if using ultra sonic machines. i don't have an expensive ultra sonic I've small James cleaner holds about half a litre if that, for glass jars I use a small Kilner jar for cleaning fluid and two of small jam jars ( the type you get in hotels ) for my rinse agent. Together this lot has cost me approx £35. For cleaning fluid and believe me I have tried loads of off the shelf or home made ultra sonic solutions and believe me the best I have used is L&R ultra fine cleaning solution, no it's not the cheapest but it **BLEEP** cleans fantastically, and shines at the same time. I re use mine by filtering it through coffee filters, £2 for 40 out of tescos that way it stays clean to reuse numerous times. For rinse agent I use isopropyl alcohol, luckily I can get this for free from work, but I believe it's not too expensive over the counter so to speak. I know the £53 for the cleaning solution (inc P&P ) sounds a lot but I can assure you I've probably spent double that on different cheaper alternatives that haven't worked.

Not sure what do you mean by that. 6R15 based Seiko cost easily $500 and their owners usually take good care of them. Actually the Seiko Diashock system is one of the best ever made, with possibly millions of units produced. Easy to work with and highly effective. Finishing is simple but very nice. Cotes de Tokio on the rotor, beveled balance cock, and few more details. Made in Japan. The 6R15 is primarily a mov.t for JDM watches.

The Timex is a good watch to start with if you want to understand the fundamentals of how a mechanical watch works but I will caution that putting that watch movement back together will be a chore. I consider Timex watches the "Everest" of watch repair; I haven't yet successfully repaired one.

After measuring try getting it here: http://m.ebay.com/itm/351621417912?_mwBanner=1 I have had wonderful experience with him. I would make sure to measure the bushing (brass part surrounding jewel) I think that is what it is called. Make sure you ask him if he has one with the exact same diameter as the original and you should be able to get one that works perfectly for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Based on the photo you posted, here is what I think is the schematic diagram for the wiring: https://goo.gl/photos/AYv4okiS3kvzL8XW6 Please double check my drawing against the actual wiring before taking this as gospel. I am working from a single photo and don't have the machine in front of me to validate my work. If it were my machine, I would not touch the solid wiring interconnecting the switches and rheostat. I'd reshape that coiled resistor to make it even and floating between the two terminals, making sure it doesn't touch anything. The reason that coiled resistor is there is because there is a small amount of voltage dropped across it when the current is applied to the heater, and that resistor ensures the correct amount of voltage appears across the bulb. It also ensures that the heater continues to operate should the bulb burn out. You can't replace the bulb with a LED because it will be destroyed when you turn on the power. Find a vintage looking pilot light to replace the original one. They are very readily available for low price. Measure the voltage across the coil with the bulb removed. That will tell you the voltage of pilot light you need to buy. An alternative to buying a new light is to remanufacture the original lens. See this Youtube video for inspiration: The shininess or crispness of the brushes is not important, their length is important. If they are too short, the motor will not run properly because they won't be contacting the commutator properly. Also, don't clean the rheostat. It also uses a carbon wiper and you may damage the wire windings if you aren't careful. Just use an electronic spray cleaner, like Deoxit, to clean the surface of the windings. Like I mentioned, replace the stranded wires connecting the heating pad to the panel using good PVC or Teflon insulated wire of the correct gauge. You can solder it onto the connectors on the panel but only crimp it to the heater wires (because of the aforementioned breakage that could occur). Good luck. It's going to be a nice looking machine when you're done.

So for those that want to see what's inside the TimeTrax Watch pickup images attached. The sensor itself the disc is 15 mm in diameter the piezo is 10 mm. You'll notice it's covered with hot glue I suspect that's to minimize picking up audio it would have a dampening effect. It's mounted to a spring-loaded pin and I have images of it in and out so it doesn't have to go in very far it just has to pick up the vibrations. Then the one I have is considerably older which is why it has a metal movement holder versus the newer out of plastic. I was thinking now that we have 3-D printers readily available we could probably design something ourselves. I imagine a lot of the cost was having the original plastic injection molded.

That's not such a crazy idea, although it would be best if the second microphone were also in the watch stand, but isolated from the watch. That way, any noise picked up by vibration of the stand itself would also be cancelled. If you have a regular sound card with a stereo line-in, you wouldn't even need a second card, just some software changes. In fact, you may not need a second input at all. Simply wiring the two piezos in series, with one pointing in the opposite direction, should have the same effect. In fact, that's exactly how the microphone in the headset I'm wearing in my avatar works. One mic faces my mouth, and the other faces away, and only the difference is picked up by the plane's audio panel.