Jump to content

Fitting Domed glass crystals


Tmuir

Recommended Posts

I've got a cheap quartz diver watch (That isn't used for diving) that I'm replacing the domed glass crystal on for my dad.

This will be the first glass crystal that I will be fitting that isn't just a flat one.

I have the Chinese clone of the Bergeon 5500A press with all the aluminium dies.

I'm looking at biting the bullet and purchasing the Bergeon delron dies for domed glass which are not cheap. Bergeon 6527-6CP

Please confirm for me that I will be flirting with failure if I just tried to use my aluminium dies to fit a domed glass crystal as I just want some confirmation before I part with my hard earned cash.

Yes I know I will be spending way more on tools than the watch I will be fixing is worth, but I don't mind that as its an investment in the future of fixing more expensive watches, but only if I really need to buy them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I''ve got one of those for fitting the 'unbreakable' acrylic crystals.

I am talking about the flat bottoms solid domed mineral glass crystals which you need to push in that sit in the plastic I ring in the case.

I'm pretty much sorted for fitting any acrylic crystal and for flat mineral glass, but the possibility of shattering a domed mineral glass does concern me if I use the wrong tool.

These are what I'm talking about

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/250mm-domed-flat-bottom-cousins

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would not use a metallic dye on glass or mineral glass. Then again I wouldn't really use them on acrylic either.

Can't you just get the cheap chinese plastic/nylon ones ? I have those and they do the job fine. Just get the ones with a metallic thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Happy to buy the Chinese ones if they do the job.

I have a very cheap Chinese ones where the dies just push on and its crap, so you reckon the Chinese ones with the metal threads are ok?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A world of difference between swiss bergeon tools and chinees.

The chinees made scratches the crystal before you can get in installed.

Considering your intent for long term use and" investment" I recommend the high quality tools.

Sorry , didn,t mean to disagree.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like there are many more types of watch glasses around these days. In my time it was normally high and low dome, tension ring and shaped and the branded types. Plastic or nylon dies are better than those metal ones. I never had the influx of Chinese or tools from India. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Obviously you should get the expensive ones if you can afford them but I don't know if the swiss make plastic dyes.

If not the chinese ones will suffice. But remember to get the ones with metallic threads. And be sure to screw them all the way in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the dome is not severe, use a scrap of pine or fir (soft wood) as a buffer and a regular arbor press. You could also apply (a TEENY-TINY) bit of Molykote 111 to help the glass slip into the ring.

If it's a real PITA, I'd be looking to the factory Seiko tool/die for the job. I bet you could order the tool (once you figure out what exactly it is) from an authorized Seiko shop. Or, maybe let the shop press in the crystal if they have the tool on hand.

I'm not above going to the "experts" when I'm well out of my comfort zone with these things...

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...