Jump to content

Vostok questions


Recommended Posts

Ok so I'm trying to get another Vostok going with the graveyard of parts I've acquired. Now if you look the train wheels looking correct, mesh correctly, and the pivots are fine.

 

The problem seems to be when I try and put the train bridge on it doesn't seem like the pivots line up into the jewel holes resulting in the train bridge not being able to screw down completely. Also the centre wheel is loose (perhaps it's the wrong wheel? But it's from the same kind of movement. Also of note the pivots look fine so I know it's not that)

 

The balance freely floats and is in great shape actually. It winds up just fine and it seems like the keyless works are all right. Pictures are included please let me know if you see anything that I don't thanks.c571b4b644174aba592fbeca599e8945.jpgb34399a78239ffa87c69ebf3bdf8586f.jpg56537e8e4afb589c273661dd041d0aaa.jpg5416b801f5df0ba3fd21ee4a27a7835c.jpg1842164420c889875ef48c17fcb54e2a.jpg

 

Sent from my Z956 using Tapatalk

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The train wheels look fine to me, but that doesn't mean I can say for sure they are. It's hard to say by just looking at the pictures. The problem could be the train wheel bridge itself. If you are sure the wheel pivots are correctly aligned in the pivot holes in the main plate and the wheels are spinning freely, then I'd suspect the train wheel bridge. Those pivot holes are microscopic, so make sure none of them is blocked and make sure all jewels look OK. If you have a stereomicroscope use it. Also, make sure none of the wheel arbors are bent. It could also be that there is something wrong with the bridge itself. To test this, remove all wheels and then mount the bridge on the main plate. Does it align perfectly with the main plate?

Other than that all I can say it can be a bit fiddly to get the bridge in place. Usually, I will have to manipulate the wheels under the bridge with fine tweezers to get the pivots into the bridge jewel bearings. My 20X/40X stereomicroscope is a blessing in these situations.

Don't quite understand what you mean by "the centre wheel is loose". It looks like the dial is mounted, and so I would assume the keyless and motion works is in place. In that case, can you set the time? Does it feel right? If yes, I'd say you have nothing to worry about.

Yes, the balance spring looks somewhat battered. It looks ugly, but I've had springs looking like that and still running fine. I'd say worry about that later if needed.

Please keep us posted on your progress, and here are a couple of pictures from my last Vostok calibre 2414 strip down. Note, these are macro images, so remember to click the images and then click again to get the full resolution.

Good luck!

41860057400_07b419c9fe_o.jpg

42951605464_0d40f78948_o.jpg

Edited by VWatchie
Some additional info about the pictures
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/21/2018 at 3:59 PM, bsoderling said:

Hi,

Not sure if it’s the photos but to me it looks like your HS is heavily off-centered.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

There definitely seems to be a hair spring issue but this will have no impact what so ever on the refitting of the train bridge.

Your photos imply that you have installed the barrel bridge, pallet bridge, and balance cock before attempting to install the train bridge. Or that you've removed the train bridge without removing anything else and are now trying to reassemble. This I believe will only make life difficult because the pallet fork will seriously restrict the movement of the escape wheel, and as all the wheels are meshed together, all of the other train wheels as well, thus considerably reducing your ability to jiggle pivots into place.

I always follow a specific assembly order (which may or may not be an accepted standard practise) which seems to make relocating pivots as painless as possible. If the movement has a separate escape wheel cock then I start with that, otherwise I start with the train bridge. With nothing else on the main plate there is plenty of room to fiddle everything into place and all of the wheels are clear of obstructions that could limit movement. Once I'm happy with the freedom and function of the train I then I install the barrel bridge. At this point it is possible to properly test the transmission of power all the way from the main spring to the escape wheel, and once this has been proved satisfactory I then install the pallets and the balance. It is sometimes necessary to install the barrel and train bridges together but the pallet and balance should always go in last otherwise it is impossible to test the freedom of the train.

Hope this helps.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very observant Marc and excellent advice! I follow the same assemby order and it just didn’t occur to me that having mounted the escapement would hinder or make it a lot harder to mount the train wheels bridge.

Edited by VWatchie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes indeed it was because the pallet fork was still in place. The centre wheel of this particular movement was a mangled mess so I replaced it with one that I had then went back to assemble the train bridge... Which as you noted was next to impossible because of that darn pallet fork. I wasn't even thinking about it until it popped into my head... Hey, genius the pallet fork needs to come off before the train and it's bridge will ever think of going on. That little pallet fork caused me quite some grief... I only needed to see back for a minute. You know it was on the bench for a few days before I realized and came back to it... Lol moral of the story... When you find yourself getting frustrated set it down and come back to it.... The answer will be so obvious

Sent from my Z956 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Following on from my question about identifying screws in the AS2063 movement that basically fell out of the case in bits, I’m pleased to report that I’ve got it all back together, and the movement is running pretty well.    But… There’s something wrong with the keyless works and hand setting. It’s fine in winding and quickset date position - these work - but in hand setting position winding the crown turns the whole gear train.  I don’t really understand how it’s meant to work. It doesn’t have a traditional friction fit cannon pinion.  The second wheel is unusual with a pair of smaller pinions on it, which seem to interact with the barrel and the motion works.    Could this be the problem? I must admit I just cleaned it and popped it in place when reassembling the gear train. I’ve lubricated the pivots but didn’t do anything to the extra bits on the second wheel.    Does this make sense and is anyone able to figure out what I’m doing wrong? Thanks in advance, as always.    ETA - the parts list calls it the Great Wheel, not second wheel. 
    • You're thinking metal to jewel in general I guess. Maybe it would be a good idea to peg the pallet staff jewel hole on the main plate after the epilame treatment. I think that could work as it is my impression that the epilame doesn't sit very hard, but I could be wrong about that so feel free to educate me. I didn't remember that 9501 was thixotropic (thanks for the link). That would mean it's even runnier during impact (lower viscosity) so perhaps it's time I get some fresh grease as mine seems a bit too runny. What I have seen is a whitish surface after washing but it goes away if I scrub the surface with a brush in a degreaser (Horosolv). I don't think it embeds itself in the metal but sticks very hard to the metal. I don't worry too much about the cleaning solution. I just want perfectly clean parts and my solution can be replaced for little money (ELMA RED 1:9). Anyway, I quite often need "to strip back and rebuild" and scrubbing parts by hand isn't exactly the most stimulating part of a service. Just got confirmation that Moebius 9501 has a lower viscosity (68 cSt at 20° C) than 9504 (305 cSt at 20°). The viscosity of Molykote DX is 285-315 cSt at -25° to +125° C. I was surprised to see that the viscosity of Moebius 9010 (thin oil!) is higher (150 cSt at 20°) than my 9501 grease!
    • I’ve had a couple movements where it is clear the previous watchmaker was diligent with lubrication but the old epilam had turned to a fine white powder covering the pallet fork and keyless parts, which can’t be good for parts. I’m spare with epi since I don’t know how long it takes to degrade to that state…
    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro. I thought the idea was for the epilame to create a barrier, a wall between the lubrication and anything else, so the lube cant spread.
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
×
×
  • Create New...