Jump to content

How to remove case back on vintage Mido


Recommended Posts

There are openers which fit the flats on the back..  It unscrews off. Google "mido caseback opener".

If you have a small adjustable wrench that can work but you may need to file the ends flat. 

Anilv

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try a rubber ball used for case backs or anilv's suggestion but be careful not to scratch the case.

Another solution is gluing something onto the case back such as a screw driver and then rotating the case back out. The glue can be easily cleaned afterwards. Just don't use too much so that it'll drip around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is a screw back. This is the type of tool you need. It is universal, unscrews many types and comes with fittings for what you need.

https://www.esslinger.com/universal-watch-back-opener-waterproof-watch-wrench-with-pins-jaxa-style/

There are many cheap made in china ones about that are poor, I would avoid those.  

This is the type I had. Two handed type. I don't think they make this type anymore

 

image.jpeg.638251bd6cc366b8ae7c74bc471183fa.jpeg

Edited by oldhippy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

There are many cheap made in china ones about that are poor, I would avoid those.
This is the type I had. Two handed type. I don't think they make this type anymore

 

Yes they do https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/double-handed-up-to-060mm?code=C35303

BTW the Chinese single handle one are normally fine. The reason why sometime one can't open a tight caseback with it is because the watch is not hold firmly, and/or not enough vertical pressure from the top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Chopin said:

Another solution is gluing something onto the case back such as a screw driver and then rotating the case back out.

I recommend against that, which can be expeditious in extreme situations, but it's not a best practice. There are case opener tools for any budget, just invest in one of these.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's important that Jaxa-type openers have minimal play. I've owned Indian/Chinese ones which were crap. Eventually got a Swiss two handle version which is very good.

For extremely seized case backs, I use either a large nut glued on with superglue, or if it's more extreme, I use a brass bar (to form a handle) which I adhere with two-part epoxy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, rodabod said:

For extremely seized case backs, I use either a large nut glued on with superglue, or if it's more extreme, I use a brass bar (to form a handle) which I adhere with two-part epoxy.

I use instead a classic type bench opener and it hasn't ever failed me. Nothing messy to deal with and nothing to clean after. Changing attachment it can also open Rolex, Breitling and other proprietary case backs. Related thread:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use instead a classic type bench opener and it hasn't ever failed me. Nothing messy to deal with and nothing to clean after. Changing attachment it can also open Rolex, Breitling and other proprietary case backs. Related thread:
 
Thank you I'll give this a try

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes they do https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/double-handed-up-to-060mm?code=C35303
BTW the Chinese single handle one are normally fine. The reason why sometime one can't open a tight caseback with it is because the watch is not hold firmly, and/or not enough vertical pressure from the top.
I have the single handle one I'll give that a shot

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also have access to a bench top type, but you can in some instances end up with a case back that is so seized that the key slots start to crack due to the force applied. It's a particular problem with Dennison-made Smiths cases from the late 60's as the keys are shallow, and the steel is not especially strong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Might that be the viscous nature of oil resisting gravity H  ,  we have been comparing water and hydrophobic surfaces which are similar in principle but water is much less viscous than oil. I guess what we trying to discover is if epilame also has an adhesive trait as well as being oleophobic. Plus the oil dropet has very little mass for gravity to work on, like watching tiny water beads that can grip onto vertical glass until they are connected together to increase their mass then run down. 
    • But it also makes it seem less susceptible to gravity. If you place a droplet of oil on an epilame-treated surface the droplet of oil will still stay in place even if you then flip the surface from a horizontal to a vertical position. That is, the oil droplet remains anchored, and that's the purpose of epilame. If it was just a matter of creating an oleophobic surface we could probably use other, less expensive, methods!? I don't know @Waggy but my gut feeling tells me you're spot on (pun intended!). I believe the oleophobic property is a side effect of epilame which is designed to keep the oil anchored.
    • Saturday morning 27/4 Sunday evening 28/4 Monday evening 29/4 Floor has a drain in the middle so I am hoping that there is very little fall on it, if any. Room is about 2.5 x 2.5 metres square. Can only use about 1/2 of one wall on the right of the pictures which has a sliding glass door in it. And only about 3/4 of the wall to the left of the pictures as it has the door to the house in it. Progress. 🙂 
    • This makes much more sense now, the oil is withdrawing itself to make as little contact with the epilame as possible. Same principle as wax on a car creates a hyrophobic surface that makes the cohesive properties of water molecules pull together.  The water beads run off only when under the influence of gravity but still remain cohesively beaded up. And as mentioned earlier a pivot would keep the oil in place on a cap jewel.  Epilame on an escapement would be a different scenario, there is nothing to hold the oil in position if gravity tugs at the bead to move, plus the escape teeth pull the oil about Maybe this is why its suggested to run the watch for a short while to remove the epilame to make two oleophobic surfaces either side of the oil, creating a ring of fire 🔥 around it 😅 The oil is repelled by every surface of the epilame even that which it sits upon. So the oil pulls together to make as little contact with it as possible, but the oil cant float above that area, it can only sit there on top of it. Under gravity the oil could potentially run away as an oil bead, unless the epilame has an adhesive property which i dont think it does ? So something else keeps it in position ie a pivot under a cap jewel . But that isn't the case in a pallet jewel situation. 
    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
×
×
  • Create New...