Jump to content

Can this be fixed? (A visit from the fairy)


p2n

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, rogart63 said:

Depends on how hard it's stuck. If the plate is made from brass and you have no other steel parts on it? You could remove it with Alum. 

Search the forum. Lot of info about that. 

Thanks. The plate is all brass so will get some Alum and give it ago.

Any suggestions on where to get a replacement screw? What is the correct name for the gear/screw concerned?

brokenScrew.thumb.JPG.f1bfb4fe6e1093c4ffdbd1de1f718c84.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

That was a little much for one screw?

Yes lol. The whole watch only cost £5.50 on fleabay. I'm keeping to the cheap ones until I know how to keep the fairy at bay.

All I know about the movement is it's an "Oris". There doesn't seem to be any other identifying marks on it. I need to dissolve the stub out with some Alum and then clean it. I'll add some photos when I reassemble it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, p2n said:

Yes lol. The whole watch only cost £5.50 on fleabay. I'm keeping to the cheap ones until I know how to keep the fairy at bay.

All I know about the movement is it's an "Oris". There doesn't seem to be any other identifying marks on it. I need to dissolve the stub out with some Alum and then clean it. I'll add some photos when I reassemble it.

Have some boxes with screws from both pocket watches and normal watches. If you have the sizes of the screw i can have a look if i have anything that could work? 

If you buy the box of 100 screws from cousinsuk it's no  guarantee that there is one screw that would work in that lot. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The alum works - been soaking for a few days and been placing the pot in a saucepan of boiling water on the evenings for 30 mins or so.

Still needs a little more time as I think I can see a few remnants of the threads.

The only problem now is finding a replacement...

P3240004.thumb.JPG.bb7facabc1b51f8d4ad19cf6af29e783.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's all back together save for the crown wheel. Winding it direct it ticks so pleased with that.

The actual screw is

Head 3.2mm

Barrel(?) 2.3mm

Thread ~ 1mm

My vernier calipers are not the most expensive so these measurements may be out a little (and its all a little small for them...)

They sell a pack of these on cousins for £20 +VAT & P+P but the watch only cost fiver so I'm reluctant to spend that much!

So until then I'll be keeping an eye of fleabay for a job lot :)

 

P3280001.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, p2n said:

That looks to be the almost the same mechanism!

Got any spare screws? ;)

almost.jpg.207d52fe2780eab87ef7b3e93e2113d1.jpg

No extra screws. have a couple of baumgartner movement also. They look the same. I have been through  my box of screws without any luck. Where do you live p2n ? Could send you some screws if you like. 

Measured the barrel and it's about 1,9 mm in diameter. Both on the baumgartner and the brac. thread is 1 mm . So that could work. 

I can measure the crown wheel . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sharpen some peg wood and screw it into the hole.

Then you can use thread gauges to get an idea of the TPI or metric equivalent.

Then comes the fun job of working out what thread it is.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@rogart63 This made me chuckle - we forgot to check scale....

P4040014.thumb.JPG.67bec4b33ae9b94c2ffece72314776cb.JPG

 

Out of the screws there were two types with the same thread. The problem is the shoulder, one too small and one too big.

Original in the middle:

P4040016.thumb.JPG.602ff2898fff48b334b3b6999c2a3720.JPG

 

I haven't got an broaches only needle files - what are the chances of being able to open the hole to accept the larger shoulder?

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Maybe it's just a coincidence, but note how the epilame-treated surface is illustrated in @Waggy's post. It looks like the oil is exposed to a binder (epilame!) so that it can't move sideways.
    • The epilame under the oil will also be removed  Unless the oil makes a barrier between the epilame and the escape teeth 😅 I think i need two strong coffees now 🤣
    • If we use the rub-off epilame method of pallet stones (run dry for a few minutes before applying the epilame) where will the oil go/be transported when it is pushed away from the impulse surface by the escape wheel teeth? Onto the epilame-treated sections of the pallet! Once the oil has been applied/transported to the epilame-treated sections of the pallet where will it then go? Nowhere as the oil will remain on the epilame. So, perhaps the run-dry method defeats its intended purpose leaving the pallet impulse surfaces dry!? If, on the other hand, we do not remove the epilame from the pallet stones where the escape wheel teeth come in contact with them I'd expect more oil to remain where we want it and need it. Yes, I agree, that is the question, and my gut feeling tells me that is exactly the case. Epilame was created to have an adhesive trait and the oleophobic property is just a side effect.  
    • Might that be the viscous nature of oil resisting gravity H  ,  we have been comparing water and hydrophobic surfaces which are similar in principle but water is much less viscous than oil. I guess what we trying to discover is if epilame also has an adhesive trait as well as being oleophobic. Plus the oil dropet has very little mass for gravity to work on, like watching tiny water beads that can grip onto vertical glass until they are connected together to increase their mass then run down. Gravity isn't the only factor at play when oil is placed on pallet stones. The oil receives a lot of bashing that may push it out of position ? Thinking about it if the oil stays in position for 10 minutes enough time for the escape wheel to scrape off the epilame , then  a walled in lubrication has been achieved,  the epilame is no longer beneath the oil ( possibly mixed into the oil )
    • But it also makes it seem less susceptible to gravity. If you place a droplet of oil on an epilame-treated surface the droplet of oil will still stay in place even if you then flip the surface from a horizontal to a vertical position. That is, the oil droplet remains anchored, and that's the purpose of epilame. If it was just a matter of creating an oleophobic surface we could probably use other, less expensive, methods!? I don't know @Waggy but my gut feeling tells me you're spot on (pun intended!). I believe the oleophobic property is a side effect of epilame which is designed to keep the oil anchored.
×
×
  • Create New...