Sourcing upper, crown side, of 2 piece WP stem?

[MrRoundel]

Season's greetings, all. Presently I'm working on a vintage Girard Perregaux watch that has an AS 1240 movement. Aside from a clutch spring (which I may be able to find suitable generic), it is in need of a crown and upper part of two-piece waterproof stem. I thought that I'd gotten lucky when I found a Bestfit #8 2-piece setup for their number 360 waterproof stem on Ebay. Unfortunately the envelope only contained the lower winding arbor, which I already have. Are there any sources for such parts as these? I realize that original GP parts will be nigh impossible, so aftermarket is certainly OK. I'm new to wrist-watch work (Have had pocket watch servicing/collecting as a hobby for about 15+ years though.), and am just learning to use the Bestfit parts system, etc. It looks to me as if the AS 1240 with waterproof case, (Sea Hawk style?) would take that #360 choice stem in a #8. First of all, does that sound right? Secondly, are their any sources aside from hoping and praying that a parts movement that is complete with a crown and two-piece stem shows up for sale somewhere?  I once had such luck for a vintage men's Sea Hawk. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Many thanks. Cheers.

[Chopin]

Can you post some pics of the parts ?

Have you tried CousinsUK for generic 2 piece stems ? I think I've seen some over there... Maybe try stem extensions... That's where I think I saw something... Maybe I'm not suggesting what you need, though...

[StuartBaker104]

Pictures might help, but if you have the inner part of the stem then the outer part can be found here:

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/stem-extensions

Generic waterproof crowns are here

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/waterproof-watch-crowns

You might find a GP signed crown used on ebay, but unlikely to have a decent seal in it.

Not sure what you mean by clutch spring. If you mean a set lever spring, then according to Jules Borel http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=X`ZD\E[ its the same part as an AS970 set spring so you can buy it here

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/as-movement-parts

 

 

 

[Ishima]

I can't help but I have to ask what a waterproof stem is, I've never heard of this thing.

[jdm]

3 hours ago, Ishima said:

I can't help but I have to ask what a waterproof stem is, I've never heard of this thing.

Probably a stem that holds a gasket, as opposed to a gasket-equipped waterproof crown.

[MrRoundel]

Thanks for your input and suggestions, folks!

I did check Cousins. I did a search for two-piece stems and, believe it or not, nothing came up. I'll try again. I'll also look into the extensions, as maybe they are generic.

The case is one of the waterproof cases that was used by GP and Benrus, among others, that utilizes the tension-ring crystal that fits over the case bottom and the bezel comes down over the crystal and friction fits against the bottom.

There's a Peseux 200 in the Sea Hawk, but it's a bit larger than the one I'm working on that I believe is the elusive GP "Mermaid" from the 40's. I could be wrong about that though. As I said, it's elusive.

The stem may not be a "waterproof stem", but rather a stem for a waterproof case. The Bestfit catalog seems to show the proper stems at the back of the catalog under, "The Bestfit Master #360 System. Waterproof Male and Female Stems, Necks, and Posts." (Page 483 in my c1976 Bestfit catalog) It looks like the image on the envelope shows the stem with something they call a "crown neck". Maybe I was wrong about expecting the two-pieces of the two-piece stem as shown in the envelope image? And maybe it wouldn't have been the right "crown neck/extension" anyway. Finding the right parts for vintage watches is quite a challenge, I must say. I guess a lot of it is in the thrill of the chase. :-)

You can see the actual winding arbor part of the stem under the envelope in the 1st image.

Thanks for the links, StuartBaker104. I'll check them out. Cheers all.

 

[MrRoundel]

7 hours ago, StuartBaker104 said:

Not sure what you mean by clutch spring. If you mean a set lever spring, then according to Jules Borel http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=X`ZD\E[ its the same part as an AS970 set spring so you can buy it here.

 

 

 

Perhaps it is a set-spring. It applies upward pressure on the clutch lever. It's the one that's indicated by the arrow in the image. It was broken in the midst of the rusty area. Thanks.

[StuartBaker104]

So pictures always help! That is part 440 which is the set spring.

I have known the Jules Borel lookup to be wrong, but in addition to Cousins, John Senior at Obsoletewatchandclockparts.com is showing that he has a complete service centre for the AS1240, although not listing the set spring seperately. Worth dropping him a line.

11 hours ago, jdm said:

Probably a stem that holds a gasket, as opposed to a gasket-equipped waterproof crown.

Could just be that split stems were first used on waterproof cases. This is the subject bestfit catalogue that describes split stems as stems for wp cases http://www.obsoletewatchandclockparts.com/bestfitpages.htm

[MrRoundel]

Thanks, gents. Related question: The winding-arbor/lower stem seems to be called out, in my '76 catalog, to be a Bestfit #8 of the 360 series (Pg. 483). If that is accurate, would the upper/male part that threads into the crown also be an 8? I'm "GUESSING" that the "8" indicates the tap size? Or is it unrelated? Otherwise, it being a two-piece stem, how do I know the size the upper/crown/extension portion should be?

As I had mentioned above I was expecting two pieces in the part #8 envelope, but there was only the arbor part.  If they don't come in sets, how the heck does one know what to get if one doesn't want to order a few different sizes of things? Thanks for any help. Cheers.

Edited December 28, 2017 by MrRoundel

[rogart63]

On 12/24/2017 at 2:09 AM, MrRoundel said:

Perhaps it is a set-spring. It applies upward pressure on the clutch lever. It's the one that's indicated by the arrow in the image. It was broken in the midst of the rusty area. Thanks.

Need a spring i have a few of those for the AS1240 . Looks like you could need a clutch wheel also ? 

[MrRoundel]

Thanks, rogart63, I appreciate the offer. Unfortunately, I just bought a parts movement for around $20, delivered.  Oh, and believe it or not, the clutch-wheel, and other wind/set part, cleaned up nicely, with the exception of the broken spring. I hope the set-spring is intact on the parts movement. The seller said that it transitioned smoothly. Thanks again. Cheers.