Jump to content

Bulova Precisionist - Couldn't Resist It


WillFly

Recommended Posts

I don't buy quartz watches as a rule, and I only have two automatics - preferring hand wound movements, as many of you know, probably to the point of boredom!

 

But - I spotted this for sale on another forum, got the asking price dropped a tad, and went for it. I think it's actually rather nice, and I just love the way the glass curves towards the lugs. (Hope I never need a new glass...)

 

post-64-0-52173200-1406649825_thumb.jpg

post-64-0-83200800-1406649838_thumb.jpg

post-64-0-47271700-1406649848_thumb.jpg

post-64-0-30632600-1406649857_thumb.jpg

post-64-0-85282600-1406649865_thumb.jpg

post-64-0-54515900-1406649875_thumb.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really don't think so! It may have to be popped out from behind, with the movement out of it.

I was watching one of Mark's vids the other night and he used compressed air from a large syringe to pressurize the case through the stem hole, then POP, the glass came out.

 

Having never seen this before, I was impressed to say the least.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I remember advertising the Precisionist line as being in the category of "certified chronometer" in terms of it's accuracy.

Yes you are correct! I thinks it well beyond even a certified (mechanical) chronometer. I believe a Certified Chronometer has to be accurate to within 5 seconds a day under various conditions. I believe the Precisionist movement is claimed to be accurate to within 10 seconds a year.

I checked the COSC website and there is nothing official in place to certify quartz movements, but the COSC had already developed stringent controls to test quartz movements. You can find it here:

http://www.cosc.ch/chronometre3.php?lang=en

Edited by DJW
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
×
×
  • Create New...