I work a lot on small caliber (ladies watch size) movements but still have mishaps with the balance hairspring. These hairsprings are very fragile and easily bent and removing/replacing the balance assembly seems to be my problem. I would like any comments on the risks of deforming the hairspring by allowing the wheel to dangle during handling. I would also like to know if the position of the regulator arm/pins has any effect re risk of deforming the spring, should it be close to the stud or as far a possible from the stud, I normally leave it where I find it so the timing is close to what it was before dis-assembly. Any advice on techniques etc will be much appreciated.
I am correcting a deformed hairspring and need to set the curve for the regulator pins. De Carle mentions using curve-forming tweezers, which I cannot yet find. What are the alternate practices for forming this curved portion of the over curve?
Hi again all,
since there are some really knowledgeable people here I hope you can impart some wisdom regarding repairing a bent hair spring. after getting this old movement working again with the help of this group (new mainspring), I need a little more advice.
after hooking this beaut up to watch-a-scope it shows low amplitude and very erratic trace. I can see the hairspring is bent and need to start here in addressing the issue.
What tools are needed (not willing to spend £50 on hairspring levers at the moment)? I have basic tools (enough to service a movement), but what are the essentials for working on a hairspring? i.e for removing from a balance safely what tweezers types/sizes are recommended for correction etc.
Also, is there an easy way to identify and obtain replacement hairsprings? I assume they are very interchangeable as it would not have been easy to make new hairsprings for every watch model.
Question for those who work on Vintage Timex watches:
I've restored several Timex pieces from the late '60s to the late '70s. The technique I learned (from Internet posts and tutorials) say to simply loosen the dial-side balance pivot by unscrewing it 1/2 turn prior to cleaning the entire movement in an ultrasonic cleaner. This method contradicts the official Timex service manuals, which state that the balance should be removed, cleaned separately and reinstalled. Thus preventing the hairspring form being damaged in the ultrasonic cleaner.
My experience is this:
Leaving the balance in place (slightly loosened) is much easier and will work on the standard movements used in the '70s (M24/25, M32/33, M104, etc.)
Attempting the same method on movements from the '50s and '60s (M22, M29, etc) will result in a kinked hairspring that is damn near impossible to un-kink.
So my question is this:
What do you experienced Timex restoration experts recommend? Leave the balance/hairspring in the movement for cleaning, or take it out to soak in a separate jar?
Is the potential for hairspring damage greater when removing/reinstalling the balance - in comparison to leaving it in place?
I've messed up a couple of vintage movements that I really wish I hadn't. I don't want to make those mistakes again.
Thanks for any insights!
I recently had the pleasure of finding a damaged hairspring needing care. My first! It’s an inexpensive orient watch, gaining 20 minutes a day. I am taking Mark’s fault finding course, and have other inexpensive hairsprings to practise with. I also got some vintage tools I’d love to use. Until now for me levellers were only the Oliver Cromwell people, but ebay never ceases to surprise...
I could pass the first stages of correcting the coil, with two tweezers. But could not find a use for the vintage tools. Could you help me to figure it out?
Picture 1 is the bent hairspring
picture 2 and 3 the box of tas levellers
picture 4 is the hairspring suffering under my tweezers now
picture 5 shows the tip of the tools
picture 6: from De Carle. Would this be the purpose of the levellers? The overcoil?
Hi well done jdm a very comprehensive walk through. Anone working on the same movement would do well to read this before starting. excellent. As regards the non cleaning of clean parts screws an plastic wheels I can see where you are coming from and respect that opinion, I also see Old Hippy's point of view, being trained old school and very correct its hard to change. But as you say it works for you with no problems so therefore you do it your way. I have done it both ways and had no problems with either. Thanks again for a good and instructive walk through.
I've used enamel paint (as you'd just get from a model shop) with good results.
I suspect the lacquer you've found is the same thing ... but perhaps thinned to a consistency that makes it easier to apply.
When painting you want to do it in one stroke; don't be tempted to go back and fiddle as you'll be less likely to get a smooth finish. One coat is usually fine but if you think you need a second wait until the first is fully dried first.
Its a early Landeron possibly a Calibre 13, only way to identify for sure would be a pic of the keyless works, Eberhard in my experience from a number of years ago are a very good company to deal with if you require parts they will supply if they have them in stock, they also seem to have good factory records so if you contact them with the serial number they may be able to help.
Very much appreciated, this walk-through. It's amazing how much quicker I can work if I don't have to photograph everything! I have removed the balance cap-jewels and settings for cleaning. I'm confident I can put these back OK. There are two other cap jewels held by Diafix springs on the barrel and train-wheel bridge, for the escape wheel and third wheel. These are smaller, and look like a challenge. Before I do something I'll regret, what are your opinions?
a). Leave well alone, no need to tempt fate
b) Absolute must, if you are doing a proper job