I recently had the pleasure of finding a damaged hairspring needing care. My first! It’s an inexpensive orient watch, gaining 20 minutes a day. I am taking Mark’s fault finding course, and have other inexpensive hairsprings to practise with. I also got some vintage tools I’d love to use. Until now for me levellers were only the Oliver Cromwell people, but ebay never ceases to surprise...
I could pass the first stages of correcting the coil, with two tweezers. But could not find a use for the vintage tools. Could you help me to figure it out?
Picture 1 is the bent hairspring
picture 2 and 3 the box of tas levellers
picture 4 is the hairspring suffering under my tweezers now
picture 5 shows the tip of the tools
picture 6: from De Carle. Would this be the purpose of the levellers? The overcoil?
Is there a 'golden rule' relating to relocating a hairspring onto a balance staff with regards to getting zero beat error after it has been removed for attention. I usually take pics or use marker pen but sometime forget!
Hi all. I have a question about the fragility of hairsprings. I’m completely new to watch repair, and have started by regulating my mechanical watches (Seiko 7S26 and Orient F6922 movements). While adjusting the rate with a wooden dowel oriented parallel to the balance wheel, I have accidentally lightly grazed the hairspring. It was enough pressure to stop the balance wheel, but there appear to be no negative consequences. Both watches keep great time and have good positional accuracy. And according to my timegrapher the beat error and amplitude were not affected.
So should I just chalk this up to good luck? Or could there be lurking damage I’m not seeing?
I received a lys Longines 5L for cleaning. Upon opening the case, I saw some surprises under the balance bridge.
I have outlined my steps on how I uncoil a tangled hairspring in hopes that others can benefit by this method.
I’m a new member and new to this ‘hobby’. This site seems to be where it’s happening.
my very first attempt is with a BFG 866 which I have stripped cleaned and rebuilt. Not applied any oils or greases yet as I plan to do this a few times. However... I have noticed that the hairspring has come detached from the ‘cock’ plate? I cannot see nor find how this is reattached... is this broken?
Any guidance is much appreciated.
good show, you did good by not removing the balance till the main spring was let down. "no pallets in this design!" a watch "with pallets" it is proper to remove the ballance before spring let down. keep up the good work. vin
Hi fellow Clockmakers,
Would a bureau desk work as a clock/watchmaker desk? Not high enough (could be solved) or stable enough? I could fetch one of these from facebook around 30-40 pounds.
I like the idea because it would be more or less child and dustproof as you can close and lock the whole thing.
I have a monoprice voxel. It is limited in features compared to others but works out-of-the-box and was a good price. I wouldn't bother with a 3d printer for parts holders and the like. There are a few nice designs on thingiverse but really it isn't worth the bother. Injection molded supplies are going to be better quality and you can buy a bunch all at once instead of one waiting to print them out one at a time.
Where it may come in handy is when you need something in a specific shape that you cannot buy. But keep in mind you will need to learn at least some basic CAD design. I use Moi3d which is excellent but there are cheaper alternatives.
I've used my 3d printer to create different adapters and holders where I needed an exact shape. For example, I was bending a strip of brass and was able to create plastic bending clamps I compressed with some pliers. I was able to figure out the exact inside and outside curve I needed and print to match. The nice thing about the 3d printed parts is you can use glue to attach whatever you need to it without worrying about having to damage the print when removing it as you can always print a new one.