Jump to content

Fossil Rescue


Recommended Posts

So I hesitated before posting this new topic since it is just to share a small repair experience. Not a big deal though and I have a little time to "chat".

 

In any case, a friend of mine brought me this Fossil watch ( I didn't take a before picture but below is the "during" picture and of course the final picture). Apparently the watch had been forgotten in a drawer somewhere: battery ran out, minute hand attached but moving loosely about and 3 tiny hour markers dancing inside. To make a story short, I took charge immediately applying first aid to the poor watch!

 

post-253-0-71053000-1406076120_thumb.jpg

 

The watch after first aid applied:

 

post-253-0-34204700-1406076170_thumb.jpg

 

And it live happily ever after... :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anil,

 

I inadvertantly ruined a rifle scope by trying to fix a continually loosening objective lens shroud with the smallest dab of CA glue, and it completely fogged the objective lens.

 

Probably within the confines of the small area the fumes collected in as it was on the outside and open to the surrounding air.

 

Thanks for the heads up relative to watch repair too!

 

Rossco

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Anil, I actually used the tiniest drop from the smaller oiler on each. Then it is just fast work since they dry quick. If they dry before set, it is impossible to fit them in their respective places. So, there was no actual waiting time. By the time the job is done, everything is dry and ready! I love superglue!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

The problem with u.v. glue -- which I love, btw -- is that light should get at it from somewhere so when we are dealing with opaque materials (light won't go through), the glue won't solidify (no light = no catalyst). And no, Geo, after cured the dark won't soften it!!! Nice try!!  :)

 

Therefore my decision -- for lack of another glue at hand -- to use superglue, the one always at hand at home (I almost tried Elmer's glue...NOT!  :)  ). Not a recommended glue and there are other glues out there that do the same and cleaner job. I used microscopic amounts of superglue, - requiring total control and a minute applicator, not even an oiler, -- because of the multiple effect it might have....in general. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'll go halves with them John , we can share it 😉
    • Besides locktite Nev, is there anything random that you use to fix in the pivot ?
    • Thanks Hector, I do think though that the problem I am experiencing is specific to Miyota movement in general and the 6T series in particular.  When you describe putting the bridge you are talking about the train wheels.  The problem here is that under that same bridge you have the 4 train wheel, the barrel, 2 extra winding related wheels and the center sweep pinion.  I can mostly put them in their holes but 2 of those (the 4th wheel and the second pinion are completely under the plate so I can't nudge them in the right position.   I managed it with a larger Miyota 8200 series but with the smaller 6T15 it is even worse. Anyway, I'll retry tomorrow evening or this week end.  This evening is going another rock climbing day (going from very light pressure on tweezers to much more force going through the fingers, although in climbing we also want to use the absolute minimum grip which won't make us fall to save the muscle and be able to climb longer routes). to add insults to injury, if you read this thread from the start, I initially messed up the disassembly as I couldn't detach the rotor.  I normally (and I think I did this time too) put all my parts in their individual compartments in the part tray and I am doing my best to be very careful about them.  But in the week and a half it took to figure out how to detach the rotor I somehow lost the screws from the bridge.  I have a few others which will be needed later.  I know they are reference 922-600 but I couldn't find what it means in general term so I don't know if I can buy replacements or an assortment of screws and replace those 2 by others.
    • Something that can happen with a lyre spring, the back of the arms can bind against the shoulders of the chaton cut out where the spring is fixed in when the spring is lifted out of the way. To stop the spring bending or breaking it needs pulling forward slightly before lifting so it clears the edge of the chaton.
    • One way is to file it by hand. Good file with sharp edge is needed. Another way is with the aid of milling attachment. There is one more way, thyat is really only on the lathe, but the arbor has to be attached perpendicular to the axis of the spindle. Will be easier to show pictures than to explain this. I must say 'Good night' as my wife is now awake and is roaring when I get closer to the computer...
×
×
  • Create New...