Jump to content

How To Replace Stem And Crown For Small Seiko Quartz Watch 200834


Recommended Posts

I have an old small Seiko quartz watch with a case number 200834 and stem number 2E20-6300.  Some time after a repair of the stem by a jewelry store, the stem began to malfunction again and the crown got loose and was lost.  After watching a few of the repair videos on your website, I thought Seiko design should be just as straight-forward, and I might be able to do the repairs myself.  So, I purchased a new stem and a new crown and tried to remove the stem after attaching the new crown by pushing on any of the holes or screw-looking spots or levers to unlock the catch.  Unfortunately none of them seemed to budge.  In the process of fiddling, the watch internal popped out of the casing with the seal now loose.  I would appreciate any help that anybody could offer.  I guess I may have to purchase some very small screw drivers if needed.  FYI: I am attaching two pictures of the watch, one for the back side of the internal and one for the watch back cover. In the first post-271-0-46905300-1405747121_thumb.jpgpost-271-0-64336000-1405747144_thumb.jpgpicture, the watch internal is just resting on the watch casing.  Thank you. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's the Tech Manual for your movement.

 

http://www.thewatchsite.com/files/Seiko%20Technical%20Manuals/2E20A.pdf

 

I've never seen this movement, but judging from the diagram you push down through the hole in the "Forth Wheel Bridge (24)" near the stem.

I could be wrong about this, so I'll look for others with more experience than me to chime in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your prompt reply.  Comparing the info and picture in the manual you provided and the back side of my watch as shown in my picture, I was still not sure which hole/spot you thought was the best bet.  However, I tried again in vain all the spots and holes I could see on the watch back.  The following is what I have found with those spots in the earlier picture (I could not attach a WORD file with added shapes for illustration):

 

First Group: Dark spots/holes in the dark area of watch internal clockwise beginning with the large golden circular hole

Spot 1: Thought to be your most likely candidate but shallow, having a shiny golden top, and not budging when pushed with a pin while pulling on the crown at the same time

Hole 2: 2nd best candidate but not budging when pushed

Hole 3: Having something under looking like shiny metal wires but not budging when pushed down or pushed sideways

Hole 4: Not budging when pushed

 

Second Group: Golden spots in the silvery plate area

Cutouts 5: Looking like circular cutouts in the silvery plate above a gold plate

 

Third Group: Shiny circular spots in the dark area,

Spots 6: Looking like silvery circular discs but not budging when pushed.

 

I remember that several of the videos and advices on your website cautioned against pressing too hard on the release button since it could completely disengage some parts.  Therefore, it would seem that the correct button should not really require a lot of force (than I had applied) to push down in order to release the stem catch.  So, I am just not sure that we have found the right catch-release.  By the way, my watch # is 2E20B and not 2E20A but I don’t believe it matters.

 

I also remember that some of the video instructions showed another type of watch stem release which is by means of pushing back a lever that moves and/or appears near the stem when the stem is pulled out for moving the hands to adjust the time.  I wonder whether that might be applicable to my watch.  For a better look, I am attaching another picture showing a slanted view of the stem side.  The picture is not perfectly focused apparently because of the rapid change in the field depth over the whole picture in this view.  Again, I tried to push in each of the parts visibly out but nothing budged.  Any suggestion?

 

Of course, if you, or someone else, are pretty sure of the hole/spot to push in, I would be willing to try again by making sure that I properly pushed it in while pulling on the crown.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its going to be somewhere around here, a little lever with a small indent on it, a pin is ideal to apply a light pressure on it. with a magnifier push the stem in & out a few times & you will see it moving in & out.

post-138-0-32528500-1406362759.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Geo, r063rto, and Lee: Thanks for your replies.  I will try them and report back the results.  In the meantime, I thought I still should attach the picture of the side view of the stem hole area that I meant to attach but forgot during the last round, although the picture is not very clear in that dark area.  This picture is more relevent to the suggestion by Lee.

post-271-0-46717100-1406472764_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • H Watch Repairers—is there is a ‘standard format’ for the service marks or codes lightly engraved inside cases of pocket watches or wristwatches?   Sometimes I can see there might be a reference to year/ month but other times am confused. I’ve included an image of the rear of a 1951 Hamilton 992B Railroad pocket watch as an example. Thank you for all information you can give, Mike
    • Hi to Blackminou29–am a collector/ caretaker—good luck to you following your repair course—with hindsight I wish I’d pursued a career in both watchmaker/ jeweler fields—good luck with whatever career passion you engage.   Thank you Watchweasol for posting the amazing TZIllustratedGlossary! Best wishes, Mike
    • yes I noticed the new site and I miss the old site. It's the unfortunate problem of the Internet here today gone tomorrow sometimes some of the stuff gets backed up and sometimes well it does not then the problem with the early Seiko's were there were not necessarily designed for distribution across the planet and as such there is no customer support for them. So trying to find early stuff like technical information or sometimes even parts list for older Seiko is is problematic. But I did find you a you tube video. A quick look he seems to take a heck of a lot of time to actually get to the service single I did not watch all that but it does look like he did disassemble or started to say there's a tiny bit here  
    • RichardHarris123: Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.  I have family all over Australia, went as £10 poms Thanks Richard. Hope you’re able to visit your family here and that they’ve all done well 🙂 My relatives arrived from England in the 1790s transported on the ‘Second & Third Fleets’—a story of timber sailing ships, of convicts and doing well in this huge Country of Australia. When I visited the UK in the 1980s, I was too young to comprehend the depth and breadth of its history…  Best wishes, Mike William Chapman, my 4th great Grandad’s charges, at age 23 read at the Old Bailey; sentenced to 7 years of transportation to Sydney.
    • The whole process and the progress are closely observed, it's hand-driven and very controlled. I can't see the "danger", unless you are watching the TV while doing it. As you could have read, and in this quote "wheel" is the balance-wheel.
×
×
  • Create New...