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On 5/10/2023 at 11:10 AM, Waggy said:

I decided to suspend work on the Seiko and distract myself with another watch, this time an Orient. Any tips and things to watch out for greatly appreciated.

2d1a215f-6584-4b83-a138-2333d81490d0.thumb.jpg.c5566624fb745c4abf5fbddffddd1ac1.jpge2c2810c-0682-4261-80ad-c7b2fc1cfa73.thumb.jpg.f3f93ddb396d635497917805e6218c20.jpgbd8c5b2a-345c-4418-a978-e575a7c8efad.thumb.jpg.8013e775317d66d47ed1425802271943.jpg995b0e84-7b80-468d-b80b-72f28b9f3ad1.thumb.jpg.3aaa3f988169071226807394554e829c.jpg

Here is the finished item 🙂

 

image.thumb.png.9d5c8b06ccaee6a17b4bb395ad2d8e7d.png

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Grandpa's old watch is having some wrist time today with his original bracelet, Inside a Raketa 2609 HA.  Repaired twice, two replacement escape wheels ( dont ask ) one replacement pallet lever, one stem and one rather reduced size crystal . Came to me not working for 50 years in poor shape with a rusted in solid stem .

20230511_223027.jpg

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Another 404 watch bought in a lot of 20 (see below) so a cost of £2.85 each, Its a SIRO Cal. 296. 

This one fought me all the way, I needed to make a shim to lift the train of wheels bridge to allow the second wheel to rotate freely. The watch had no jewels in the main plate and bridges, so this is the only way I knew how to do it, ie on a jewelled watch I could re-position jewels, but this one just had holes in the main plate (anyone know a better way for next time??)

Also the watch came with the wrong winder which I only realised after hours of trying to make the setting lever work, then another 2 hours searching through my collection of spare stems before I found one that would work.

Finally I had to remove the damaged loom from the hands and re-lume them - I was left with a spot/clump of lume on the hour hand, but decided to leave it as it looked quirky and I kind of liked it ... and I was too lazy to do it again 🤪

New crystal and strap (changed to a black one) and polished the case with Flitz (amazing stuff!).

So here are the before and after shots:

Before front:

signal-2023-05-13-141407_003.thumb.jpeg.6d28ee66c06c7eefff53024d8498cc47.jpeg

Before back:

signal-2023-05-13-141407_004.thumb.jpeg.3aaad87a627d3615400ab65f3ee124df.jpeg

Movement:

signal-2023-05-13-143247_002.thumb.jpeg.3a5830d44cdffc69c2fda6396e80dab6.jpeg

And here is the finished watch:

signal-2023-05-13-141407_002.thumb.jpeg.9f20bfcce20fd91c68015dac8490b9d1.jpeg

Not bad for £2.85!

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24 minutes ago, Waggy said:

Another 404 watch bought in a lot of 20 (see below) so a cost of £2.85 each, Its a SIRO Cal. 296. 

This one fought me all the way, I needed to make a shim to lift the train of wheels bridge to allow the second wheel to rotate freely. The watch had no jewels in the main plate and bridges, so this is the only way I knew how to do it, ie on a jewelled watch I could re-position jewels, but this one just had holes in the main plate (anyone know a better way for next time??)

Also the watch came with the wrong winder which I only realised after hours of trying to make the setting lever work, then another 2 hours searching through my collection of spare stems before I found one that would work.

Finally I had to remove the damaged loom from the hands and re-lume them - I was left with a spot/clump of lume on the hour hand, but decided to leave it as it looked quirky and I kind of liked it ... and I was too lazy to do it again 🤪

New crystal and strap (changed to a black one) and polished the case with Flitz (amazing stuff!).

So here are the before and after shots:

Before front:

signal-2023-05-13-141407_003.thumb.jpeg.6d28ee66c06c7eefff53024d8498cc47.jpeg

Before back:

signal-2023-05-13-141407_004.thumb.jpeg.3aaad87a627d3615400ab65f3ee124df.jpeg

Movement:

signal-2023-05-13-143247_002.thumb.jpeg.3a5830d44cdffc69c2fda6396e80dab6.jpeg

And here is the finished watch:

signal-2023-05-13-141407_002.thumb.jpeg.9f20bfcce20fd91c68015dac8490b9d1.jpeg

Not bad for £2.85!

What did you do to the dial?

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30 minutes ago, Waggy said:

Another 404 watch bought in a lot of 20 (see below) so a cost of £2.85 each, Its a SIRO Cal. 296. 

This one fought me all the way, I needed to make a shim to lift the train of wheels bridge to allow the second wheel to rotate freely. The watch had no jewels in the main plate and bridges, so this is the only way I knew how to do it, ie on a jewelled watch I could re-position jewels, but this one just had holes in the main plate (anyone know a better way for next time??)

Also the watch came with the wrong winder which I only realised after hours of trying to make the setting lever work, then another 2 hours searching through my collection of spare stems before I found one that would work.

Finally I had to remove the damaged loom from the hands and re-lume them - I was left with a spot/clump of lume on the hour hand, but decided to leave it as it looked quirky and I kind of liked it ... and I was too lazy to do it again 🤪

New crystal and strap (changed to a black one) and polished the case with Flitz (amazing stuff!).

So here are the before and after shots:

Before front:

signal-2023-05-13-141407_003.thumb.jpeg.6d28ee66c06c7eefff53024d8498cc47.jpeg

Before back:

signal-2023-05-13-141407_004.thumb.jpeg.3aaad87a627d3615400ab65f3ee124df.jpeg

Movement:

signal-2023-05-13-143247_002.thumb.jpeg.3a5830d44cdffc69c2fda6396e80dab6.jpeg

And here is the finished watch:

signal-2023-05-13-141407_002.thumb.jpeg.9f20bfcce20fd91c68015dac8490b9d1.jpeg

Not bad for £2.85!

A nice little Oris 296 👍 . Does the tg screen look like a digital snowglobe ?

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9 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

You not prepared to tackle that beat error ? lol  

Nope 🤣 - I quit whilst I was ahead, there was no adjustable arm for the beat error, so decided to leave well enough alone.

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6 minutes ago, Waggy said:

Nope 🤣 - I quit whilst I was ahead, there was no adjustable arm for the beat error, so decided to leave well enough alone.

You’d be building a wedge to poke the stud out/in or wrenching collet through the spring. Very easy to Bork it up…

…and I’d lend you some of Dr. Tillwich’s blue magic pin pallet amp improver…unless you already used some 😲….

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4 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Get a garden spade wedged in that collet and twist. Whats the worst that can happen ? 😆

...allow me to introduce you to my A-17 waiting patiently in a parts tray for the backup balance to be studded and fiddled. It was fine with rounds one and two what brought the beat from > 9.9 to 0.6 but was was none to happy with my greed for a third...

Edited by rehajm
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1 hour ago, rehajm said:

...allow me to introduce you to my A-17 waiting patiently in a parts tray for the backup balance to be studded and fiddled. It was fine with rounds one and two what brought the beat from > 9.9 to 0.6 but was was none to happy with my greed for a third...

 Your thirst for perfection is admirable.

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3 hours ago, rehajm said:

It was fine with rounds one and two what brought the beat from > 9.9 to 0.6 but was was none to happy with my greed for a third...

Ahh.. the quest for beat error perfection.

Quite a few of the balances in my scrap box have fallen foul of that particular urge. Timexes with their "dont-you-dare-i'm-made-of-fog" hair springs in particular.

Edited by AndyHull
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9 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

You not prepared to tackle that beat error

I don't think I worry about the beat error until you get the lines to clean up a little bit.

notice how the lower line is a line and the upper is what exactly? then as far as amplitude goes we don't have a lift angle and even if we did I not sure that a pin pallet falls the normal rules for timing machine so probably the most you're going to get is the rate and the beat but you only get the beat if the lines would at least be both of them parallel. You might try putting some lubrication on the other pin whichever one you didn't lubricate put it on the other one see if it cleans things up a little bit. Often times on a lever escapement if one of the lines looks a little rough it can be an lubrication issue otherwise of this is the best it is celebrate it's running and it looks like it's keeping time.

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11 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

as far as amplitude goes we don't have a lift angle and even if we did I not sure that a pin pallet falls the normal rules for timing machine.

With no lift angle for a pallet pin movement i guess the amplitude reading we have here can be ignored completely. 

9 hours ago, Waggy said:

Nope 🤣 - I quit whilst I was ahead, there was no adjustable arm for the beat error, so decided to leave well enough alone.

As an experiment to maybe learn something  from can you give us another 2 readings with the lift angle at opposite ends of the timegrapher's ranges please.

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43 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

With no lift angle for a pallet pin movement i guess the amplitude reading we have here can be ignored completely.

is not so much the lift angle that can be measured by just the classic method of 180° and possibly adjust the machine to now say 180° but it's the waveform. I don't know on our oscilloscope what the waveform looks like and whether the timing machine will understand and display the correct numbers. So I wouldn't worry about the amplitude. The beat should be right and the graphical display is interesting is it is but being a pin lever anything that looks like well anything that looks like it goes down the screen and running straight is probably fine. This is where we need a nice running a pin lever watch to try experiments with to see how they look on the timing machine maybe it look great ideas don't know

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Good day, I have a new OMNTA watch to add to my collection, this watch was one of 16 purchased for £32.00 from eBay, which works out at an average cost of £2.00, so also qualifies for the 404 club 🙂

The watch was a non-runner and it looks like this resulted from a broken pinion on the second wheel, also, I had to use my staking set to reduce the arbour hole on the barrel bridge as there was way too much play. Finally, the bridal was broken on the mainspring - so after replacing the wheel and mainspring (fortunately there was another watch with the same movement in the lot of 16 which I used as a donor - lucky!!) and the bridge repair here are the before and after pictures:

Watch front view (before:)

signal-2023-05-19-070848_002.thumb.jpeg.418a90b5c5f1d429c4f714ab522d12d1.jpeg

Here is a picture of the movement - I just noticed that you can see the orange smudge of corrosion in the top hole to the right of the ratchet wheel and just under where the click screw is, this is where the wheel pinion was broken and had to be replaced, it looked like corrosion on the pinion, but there was little other evidence of corrosion in the watch:

signal-2023-05-19-070912_002.thumb.jpeg.f7fec416ec423d0f15f0d20a94855be3.jpeg

And here is the dial out of the case, this needed a little work, and was better in the final restoration but still not 100% and I didn't want to push my luck and make it worse:

signal-2023-05-19-070932_002.thumb.jpeg.59e6583b278cb17ae0f41b7a7e2067d0.jpeg

And here is the finished watch:

signal-2023-05-19-070644_002.thumb.jpeg.23af5a183091ceb1494b9f633afb8507.jpeg

Edited by Waggy
Additional observation
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OMNTA, that's a new one to me but I like the looks of it! Was it hard fitting the train bridge without any access to the wheels to tease them into position? And speaking of the train bridge, where is the sweep second pinion? Is it hiding beneath the ratchet wheel?

Edited by GuyMontag
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10 minutes ago, GuyMontag said:

Was it hard fitting the train bridge without any access to the wheels

Thanks for your kind comments, fitting the bridge was difficult as everything has to line up together and all at the same time, this is where my microscope was invaluable, although there were a few swear words 😬 and more than one coffee break involved 🤣.

 

10 minutes ago, GuyMontag said:

where is the sweep second pinion?

This was a strange one, as it was fixed to the main plate and couldn't be removed, please see picture:

Dial side showing wheel:

signal-2023-05-19-075537_002.thumb.jpeg.71990dd997574e1f18fcab4cf2ecf649.jpeg

Other side

signal-2023-05-19-075519_002.thumb.jpeg.d2e633a800118a8dcd1adc97891915e7.jpeg

I tried using the ultrasonic to see if this would encourage the wheel to come out but in the end I decided maybe it was a strange design and not supposed to be removed and better to leave it alone as it was moving freely and no obvious signs of damage or corrosion

Edited by Waggy
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21 hours ago, Waggy said:

(fortunately there was another watch with the same movement in the lot of 16 which I used as a donor - lucky!

What’s it like to be God’s favourite? 😅

21 hours ago, Waggy said:

Thanks for your kind comments, fitting the bridge was difficult as everything has to line up together and all at the same time, this is where my microscope was invaluable, although there were a few swear words 😬 and more than one coffee break involved 🤣.

 

This was a strange one, as it was fixed to the main plate and couldn't be removed, please see picture:

Dial side showing wheel:

signal-2023-05-19-075537_002.thumb.jpeg.71990dd997574e1f18fcab4cf2ecf649.jpeg

Other side

signal-2023-05-19-075519_002.thumb.jpeg.d2e633a800118a8dcd1adc97891915e7.jpeg

I tried using the ultrasonic to see if this would encourage the wheel to come out but in the end I decided maybe it was a strange design and not supposed to be removed and better to leave it alone as it was moving freely and no obvious signs of damage or corrosion

Smith’s Empire w/sweep seconds has that setup, too. If that wheel is pulled off you can clean and lubricate and there’s a lovely tutorial here on replacing it with the staking set. Lining up the train is a bit of a trick or if there’s to much play between the wheel and the fixed post. Good to hear you didn’t have those issues…

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    • I installed the donor pallet fork and now the watch is running, but only for 10 seconds. The lower side of the pallet fork only seems to go into the hole when I add the bridge. A visual check shows lower and upper are properly seated. I'll check the hairspring.
    • I get that, but you're making unnecessary work for yourself. Resign yourself to having to give the movement a final clean and lubrication once you've fixed the problem. You probably won't need to redo the balance or the barrel in any case. The oil captured between the hole and cap jewels will still be good even if you've had it in and out of the movement half a dozen times.
    • Thanks, some great advice. I have to go over the train every time I refit anything as each wheel has it's own bridge (cock?). They have a tiny amount of play so you can tighten them down in slightly different positions. This changes the gear mesh. I went through all that when I first started having issues with it. Movement works isn't fitted at the moment and nor is the seconds hand. The only reason I'm cleaning it every time is because each time I assemble it, I lubricate it. Mainly because you have to remove the balance wheel and hairspring to oil the top balance jewel. It's a pain so I always live in hope it will be going together for the last time. As the top one has to be oiled, so does the bottom one. Then I may as well do the train wheels.... I could just do the whole thing dry, but if it works, I'll still have to disassemble the balance again and it's always a risk. The hair spring is pinned, the cap jewel screws are underneath (stupid design. To be fair, the 3 separate bridges is a stupid design too).   I'll play with it more tomorrow and gather some more info, pics, and maybe some video.   Thanks for all the advice.
    • It's not great, IF you did the test without the pallet installed. Assuming 18000 beats per day, 25 seconds is 125 beats or about 62 oscillations. You should get 100 or more. If the pallet was in place when you did the test it means nothing. Either way, this is not the principal issue. I was going to mention that I recently worked out that I get much better pics with a loupe held in front of the phone camera than trying to shoot down the microscope. I use a 20x loupe, but try with whatever you have. The roller jewel (or impulse jewel) could be an issue, particularly if it is loose, but this is also not the main issue. Get some clear pics so you can ask the experienced members here about it after you have addressed the main issue. Nothing in the escapement explains the rapid deterioration you're seeing 20 minutes after winding. That suggests an issue in the train rather than the escapement. The failure to self-start after it has been running a while confirms that power is not getting to the escapement. If it was me, and I was confident I had eliminated the barrel as the source of the problem, I'd be looking further down the train. I'd first make sure the canon pinion was out to eliminate the motion works as a source of the problem. Also make sure the centre seconds pivot is removed, if it has one, or the seconds hand if it has sub-seconds. If that didn't make a difference I'd then work my way through each wheel starting at the centre wheel. Is it sitting level? At the right height? Does it have just enough end shake? Does it have excessive side shake? What happens if you touch the upper pivot with a piece of pegwood with just a little bit of power in the mainspring? What about the lower pivot? Once I was certain there was no problem there I'd move on to the third wheel, and so on all the way down the train. Just because the train runs freely with the pallet out does not mean it has no problems as excessive side shake (for example) will only be an issue when the train is under tension. Finally, I advise you to stop re-cleaning until you have fixed it. I know the temptation, but it's just a distraction. You need to be systematic and methodical.
    • If you short the two blue wires together, does the unit chime? I have a similar chime unit that is designed to work with a quartz movement with an hourly trigger switch.  I'm not aware of any movements or chiming units that chime quarterly.
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