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brenray cleaning machine

MrBeat
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Hammer2017
Hammer2017

Thanks again Rob. I've taken some photos of the brushes. I don't know how long they need to be, but they are spring loaded and seem to be in contact with the motor. Hopefully you'll be able to see fro

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Watex New Member

Watex

Posted
Posted

I've tried to lever off to no avail. In a post last year 'hammer' mentioned something about a thread on the shaft of his Brenray machine motor. I've tried holding other end of motor shaft in vice and twisting basket holder but with no success - I'm afraid to put too much pressure on the holder in case it distorts. The inside of holder is threaded - I have inserted screw to show this.

2lrpfbI.jpg

RmtCd65.jpg

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khunter WRT Addict

khunter

Posted
Posted
39 minutes ago, Watex said:

No sign of a roll pin.  One grub screw in basket holder and 2 grub screws in cylindrical section above. All grub screws removed.

Apologies, I need to read better. Sounds like it's just seized, might try a little heat to get them to come apart. 

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  • 1 month later...
NicolasWatchCo New Member

NicolasWatchCo

Posted
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Dear Fellow Watchmakers

I note this regarding acquiring and servicing a Brenray cleaning machine. I have also purchased one of these. The machine works, with the motor running and the heating element heating up.

I am an amateur watchmaker in training at a rookie level, to say the least. My master has recommended that I service / re-wire this machine before use.

I'm not confident to undertake this myself and would prefer to hire the services of a professional (or at least someone who has undertaken a job like this before).

Would anyone in this thread be able to offer this service or know someone who would?

I am based in NW London

Kind regards

Nick

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measuretwice WRT Addict

measuretwice

Posted
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, maclerche said:

Only if you have a functional RCD 

I think I'd disagree with that.  A GFI is safer so I agree would maybe have a greater chance of saving a life, however a ground frame will cause a regular fuse/breaker to go if the frame comes into contact with something hot.  i.e. without a grounded frame, a frayed hot wire makes contact with the frame and the whole machine is hot waiting for the operator to touch it (no doubt barefoot and standing in a puddle :) ) to provide a path to ground. 

 

Edited by measuretwice
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maclerche WRT Addict

maclerche

Posted
Posted (edited)
53 minutes ago, measuretwice said:

I think I'd disagree with that.  A GFI is safer so I agree would maybe have a greater chance of saving a life, however a ground frame will cause a regular fuse/breaker to go if the frame comes into contact with something hot.  i.e. without a grounded frame, a frayed hot wire makes contact with the frame and the whole machine is hot waiting for the operator to touch it (no doubt barefoot and standing in a puddle :) ) to provide a path to ground. 

 

I do not know what you call it in Canada (can you explain GFI?) but here in Denmark and most of EU we call it RCD or RCCD (old days HPFI) Anyway Here you can't have a private installation whiteout RCD (call it what you want) that turns off before a leak of 30 mA!  This is the only thing that can safe life. I agree that a ground will be a good idea as well.. but ground alone,  that will only safe your lift if you can be sure to have the same potential as the machine all the time... 

I think we are talking about the same but that it has different name here in EU and in US/CA?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Residual-current_device

 

https://www.consumerunitworld.co.uk/hager-cdc440u-rcd-four-pole-40a-30ma-2581-p.asp

 

Edited by maclerche
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measuretwice WRT Addict

measuretwice

Posted
Posted (edited)
31 minutes ago, maclerche said:

I think we are talking about the same but that it has different name here in EU and in US/CA?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Residual-current_device

 

 it might be slightly different.  GFI is ground fault interrupt,  same idea as RCD.  Essentially It trips if current on both wires is not the same - as you say, its looking for a leak.   

afaik in North America these are only required by code in specific circumstances - bathrooms for example.  You'd not see them in typical outlets or workshops.  Even in bathrooms, GFI requirements are usually handle at the outlet level - circuit itself is not GFI protected.  While GFI/RCD might give some theoretical improved protection, it just doesn't seem to be a problem given the rest of the code;  people are not dying and its not common or code to have to use GFI breakers (afaik)

All circuits are protected by a breaker or fuse - that is code.  This trips if too much current is going through the hot side.  However it doesn't care where the current is going - so long as its not drawing more amps than its rating, it won't trip regardless if the current is safely flowing back neutral or flowing through your heart.    This is not a safety issue outside say bathrooms where a hair dryer could get dropped in a sink as its almost impossible for a hot wire to touch a person without touch the frame.  Since the frame is grounded (as per watchabit) if a hot wire does come loose and touch it, the breaker instantly goes as the current flows through the ground.

It would be a major safety faux pas imo to think grounding the frame would only  have a safety benefit if use a GFI/RCD.   The problem of suggesting that, is if the party is in place that does not use GFI, they might interpret it as "no point in grounding since its not GFI/RCD".  Not true.  That ground does save lives/stop fires with a fuse/breaker as the instant a hot touches something it trips the breaker and stops current flow.   GFI or not, you want the frame grounded imo.

Edited by measuretwice
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watchabit Member

watchabit

Posted
Posted

Well stated MT,

When working on any vintage equipment with two wire power cords, I always change them out for a three wire grounded cord that is grounded to the chassis. In the US grounds are all connected together and to earth ground. Any leak from load side AC to ground will trip a circuit breaker. Btw, gfi's are code required near a water source. 

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  • 4 months later...
Tracey19 Member

Tracey19

Posted
Posted

Hi can eney one help please .I have purchase a brenray watch caning machine it all seems to work ok but we would like to make sure that the motor is wired correctly . It states that it is 110 -220 volts . Can this run ok on or UK 240 volt or do we need to get it rewired to be able to use it I would be great full for eney advice 

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
25 minutes ago, Tracey19 said:

 It states that it is 110 -220 volts . Can this run ok on or UK 240 volt or do we need to get it rewired to be able to use it I would be great full for eney advice 

240V is actually the limit, typical values are around 230. All equipment labelled 220 accounts for that.

BTW, you had posted in the wrong section, also we have an introduction section where most members like to introduce themselves before asking questions. 

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Tracey19 Member

Tracey19

Posted
Posted

Hi thankyou both for ur messies . I did not now hoe to go about talking to people on hear so I just added my message would eney one be able to addvice on how I would rewire the motel at all as I'm not sure it is wired correctly . The machine on ur link is not the same one as I have so wiring is diffeence thanks for eney help u can give 

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Tracey19 Member

Tracey19

Posted
Posted

Hi thankyou both for ur messies . I did not now hoe to go about talking to people on hear so I just added my message would eney one be able to addvice on how I would rewire the motel at all as I'm not sure it is wired correctly . The machine on ur link is not the same one as I have so wiring is diffeence thanks for eney help u can give 

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Tracey19 Member

Tracey19

Posted
Posted

Hi i can not see a model number on the motor at all i have taken it to a companie that does industrial motors the chap there said he thinks it is a 110 dc motor . He has tryed it 9n 240 ac it will spin slow with no resistants (you can stop with ur fingers) then he tryed it on a dc circuit at 50v dc and it span very good and it has risistence and the he tryed it at about 100 to 110 v dc and it span realy fast and risistence was good .seemed to have plenty of torce .also when u put it on to a 240 power it will start to smoke and as I explained had no risistence . So I am now stuck and don't now what to do I have supply ed pics as you can see 

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