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  1. I'm still using the plastic bushing I made (for the bolt through the elma bracket to the motor shaft). I've got those brass ones from ebay on the way, and will replace them when they arrive. The speed control works, although it seems to be a very fast top speed. I've only run it dry though, I expect it will turn slower in the cleaning fluid. Will try that out when they arrive!
  2. Ok, happy tidings! I've finished all the soldering, put it back together, and everything is working! No blown bulbs, super heating resistors, or blown fuses! The heater is heating up. I ran it for about 30 mins under supervision, and all seems to be fine. The plate gets pretty hot, but the air in the chamber doesn't get too hot, so I suspect the 60 degree thermostat might not ever kick in, but it's good to have it there just in case. I seem to be having trouble with photos again, but here' s a shot of it operating: I decided not to do anything with the control plate at the moment. The machine has taken up most of my watch time lately, and I want to get back to that. Maybe at some point in the future I'll get one made up. Once again, thanks to everyone who has helped. Without you guys, I wouldn't have been able to get it all working again! I look forward to posting in the watch repair forums from now on!
  3. Thanks for those diagrams, Henry. I understand what you're talking about. I'm just waiting on delivery of the thermostat and the bulb to get going with it. I'll update as soon as I do!
  4. Once again, thank you so much for all the input. I have absolutely no doubt that I wouldn't be able to complete this restoration without the help I've gotten here - I really appreciate it. I have a couple of quick questions regarding the new circuit diagram: - Am I correct that I need to cut the spring resistor out of the circuit completely? -Can I use a different type of bulb to the one you've linked? eg an E10 Indicator Light, Clear, 230 V, 13 mA, 1000h. This will fit in the bulb housing that's presently there. I'm not sure the neon one you've suggested will, so I'd have to work out how to house that one. -Does the thermostat need to be mounted externally so it can be adjusted, or does it go inside, and cut off the power to the heating plate once it hits 60 degrees? Thanks again!
  5. Thanks for that! I had thought that if the heater had a higher power draw, it would just under perform with what the supply could provide, not that it would pull more through! I'll take another look at it this weekend with that diagram in mind. I really appreciate your help on it - hopefully that will get it all up and working!
  6. I've no idea what the old heating plate was rated for - it was a rusted mess with no markings. I'm beginning to think I'm way out of my depth on this, and that it might be time to take it to a specialist for rewiring... I just don't have a clue about electrics, and it's proving to need more work than I had thought. For the time being I might forego the heating plate. I've been told that modern cleaning fluids don't need heat to aid with drying nearly so much as the old one, so hopefully spin drying will be enough!
  7. It's an old machine, so just because that bulb was the one that was in it when I bought it, doesn't mean it's the correct one! I should say that it was not working when I got the machine. Am I correct in assuming that the spring between the bulb terminals should not be glowing up red hot like that? The heating element is the Elma replacement for 230V cleaning machines. This is the only marking on the plate: Also, thanks again for your help with this!
  8. The bulb is 3.5V 300mA, which was what it came with, so I just did a straight replacement.
  9. The only rewiring I've done is the two frayed looking wires on the left of the pic. I've replaced them with 6amp wire - the switch is rated for 3 amps, so I presume the wire has a higher current rating than I need. The bulb is an identical replacement to the one that was in it - I'll have to double check the numbers as I'm away from the machine at the moment. I evened out the spring top left, so it's only touching at the solder points. It's the one that's heating up. The heating plate connected to the two wires on the left is getting hot - I think as it's supposed to - so that bit seems to be working. The problem (I hope) is limited the bulb fitting, and something to do with the spring, judging by the way it's heating up. I can solder a bit - not brilliant, but I can usually make a good connection.
  10. Ok, we're all up and running with this, with one exception... When I turn on the heater, the bulb comes on as it should, but that spring resistor connecting the two points glows up to bright orange in a second or two, and the bulb pops. The spring seems to be soldered to the two points ok, and I'm not really sure what's wrong here, or how to fix it. This has me at a bit of a dead end with it, as everything else (including my new heating plate) is working as its supposed to. Any and all suggestions are very much appreciated!
  11. That's definitely the best option, but it's way beyond my skill set to do, and I'm sure I'd ruin it if I tried! I'm going to get those brass bushings and use them instead of the plastic one I made.
  12. The motor shaft has a screw thread on the outside also. I can't remember exactly what size it was, but it was 9.5 mm or something like that - another imperial size. It was too big to fit into the Elma basket's opening. I don't have access to any heavier machining tools, so fabricating metal parts with threads isn't a good option for me, although getting an adaptor made with 2BA on one side and 8mm on the other would probably be the best solution.
  13. I can take that old basket bracket off - the old spring thread is in the interior of the motor shaft. I left it on as there are 'propellors' on the top that I thought might be needed to agitate the cleaning fluid. If they aren't, I can take that old plate off. I don't know what more I'd need in terms of an adaptor for the Elma basket, but the way I've done it in the photo seems to work. I'm always open to a better way of doing it though!
  14. I made a small plastic shim for it. I stuck my dremel in a vice, put the bit of plastic in and filed it as it spun, so a makeshift lathe I guess! Seems to have worked. I hadn't thought of the locktite, so thanks for that. I have a bottle or two of varying strengths on my tool table. The old heating plate was just a rusty mess, and I couldn't live with putting it back in after everything else was cleaned up. Despite my best efforts with rust removers and a wire brush, I couldn't get it cleaned off. Also, the sheared bolt was stuck fast, so I wouldn't have had any way to fix it to the housing again, and I didn't want to have it rattle around inside. I'm told that with the modern cleaning fluids, heat isn't so important for drying, but I want to have the machine in restored condition, not cobbled together, so I decided to replace it. The last thing that I want to look at is the control panel. The paint and writing on it is pretty worn and illegible. It's a standard metal plate sign. Any ideas on what can be done to bring these back up to spec? One approach I was thinking of was doing it out on photoshop, printing it on photo paper, gluing it on and clear coating it. I don't think that's a great solution though. I'd prefer to get the original restored if I can, but I don't even know where to start on that one.
  15. I put everything together, except for the heating plate, which I've given up on and am waiting for a replacement for. Motor spins up well, although I didn't think to check if the speed control is working. However, the bulb, which has been replaced, didn't work. The heating plate isn't connected, so the wires leading to it are loose. Might the bulb not be working because this circuit hasn't been closed, or is this more likely indicative of another problem elsewhere? Very much looking forward to having this up and running so I can get back to watches! At this point I think I might have been better off buying a refurbished one and putting in some of the time I've spent on this one in overtime instead!
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