steam cleaner

[adiorio110]

hi

Would it be ok to steam clean the plates with a steam master 

Anthony

[WileyDave]

 

5 hours ago, adiorio110 said:

hi

Would it be ok to steam clean the plates with a steam master 

Anthony

Probably not unless you want to risk rust creeping back on them. Steam uses water, water and watches don't mix well, even small amount of H2O can start process.  Plates can be dried with everything from hairdryer to actual "parts dryers". (UGH!, another tool needed!) Why take a risk of undoing what you've done? You could try a sample plate just for S&G. Just MHO.

[adiorio110]

 

Probably not unless you want to risk rust creeping back on them. Steam uses water, water and watches don't mix well, even small amount of H2O can start process.  Plates can be dried with everything from hairdryer to actual "parts dryers". (UGH!, another tool needed!) Why take a risk of undoing what you've done? You could try a sample plate just for S&G. Just MHO.

I am trying to save a few bucks were I can while in learning stage. Don't feel like spending 100 bucks on cleaning solutions while there are so many other tools I would like to get. So I am using naptha right now. What if I soaked in naptha cleaner to loosen dirt then steamed . After steam rinse with naptha again. I was thinking the steam would be great for blasting the dirt from the tiny creveses and the jewels.

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[frenchie]

I would stay away from steam because of the heat, more than because of the water. Watch parts are not meant to be exposed to intense heat, I'm not sure how the different metals will react. Some of them will expand more than others, resulting in parts that end up out of alignment.

If you're on a budget, use lighter fluid (and a small paint brush for tough dirt) to clean the parts, and then 99% alcohol to rinse and remove any moisture (except for balance wheel and pallet fork).

We're talking a $20 investment that will last you a decent time.

[adiorio110]

I would stay away from steam because of the heat, more than because of the water. Watch parts are not meant to be exposed to intense heat, I'm not sure how the different metals will react. Some of them will expand more than others, resulting in parts that end up out of alignment.

If you're on a budget, use lighter fluid (and a small paint brush for tough dirt) to clean the parts, and then 99% alcohol to rinse and remove any moisture (except for balance wheel and pallet fork).

We're talking a $20 investment that will last you a decent time.

My understanding is naptha is. Active ingredient in lighter fluid paid $7 for a quart. I haven't been rising with alcohol. I pick some up.

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[vinn3]

cleaning watch plates by hand is not dificult.     spend time on the basics.

[adiorio110]

I was just figuring to do the plates and get the dirt out from the rubbed jewels ..I have a plate I think I will experiment on.  I have the steamer so I have nothing to lose. 

  

[noirrac1j]

On 1/16/2017 at 8:15 AM, adiorio110 said:

My understanding is naptha is. Active ingredient in lighter fluid paid $7 for a quart. I haven't been rising with alcohol. I pick some up.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 

Naptha is the way to go. If there is a lot of dirt, get yourself some ultrasonicating detergent and place the dirty parts along with a little detergent in a cup of hot water. Rinse off and dry with compressed air, dip part again in Naptha to displace residual water and dry. Works for me.

 

Joe

[adiorio110]

Joe 

I have some ultra sonic solution I used to cleaned gold jewelry( I forget the name its the pink stuff). Would that be ok to use on watch parts? then the Naptha.

What is your feeling on using a steam cleaner also.

 

Process I am proposing

1. Ultrasonic

2. Steam clean

3. Naptha

4. Compressed air to dry

When cleaning Jewelry I use to ultrasonic to loosen dirt  then steam clean

 

Anthony

 

[noirrac1j]

I use something called Euro Sonic (made in U.S.A. so go figure) that I bought from J Borel, but I would say you can certainly use ultrasonic solution used to clean jewelry.

 

The problem with steam cleaning is the very high temps and pressured vapor, which might damage or warp some finer parts.

I know, I know...the mainplate is just a chunk of metal. But is you consider the incabloc setting, or the cannon pinion/ great wheel that in some movements cannot be removed, then you might have problems. I've had the little legs of incabloc and KIF springs  bend or break even though they were closed because I gently cleaned the mainplate with a soft toothbrush to get dirt out and inadvertently brushed the shock settings.

My example is different than using steam, but it still might damage something . I don't use any brushes when I clean a mainplate because soaking in ultrasonic solution and rinsing alone usually will make the plate shiny and clean. I then use the compressed air to get the water out of the crevices and then soak in fresh naptha--done! You're right about cleaning jewelry with steam, but  jewelry is made to withstand general abuse form the environment, whereas internal watch parts are not. Now, a watch case, sure I would steam clean a watchcase as long as the crystal is removed. I would also clean metal watchbands with steam. Hope this helps..

JC

[Geo]

On 16/01/2017 at 5:54 AM, adiorio110 said:

hi

Would it be ok to steam clean the plates with a steam master 

Anthony

You have had a few answers telling you not to do it and you are still considering going ahead with steam???

I'll give you another good reason for not doing it.  Brass expands approximately three times more than than the material jewels are made from when both are heated at the same temperature.  If you go ahead, you will run the risk of jewels moving or falling out if the plate.  Even if they don't come out completely, they may still move and screw up the endshake tollerances.

I use an ultrasonic machine with good quality cleaner and it does a good job.

[adiorio110]

5 hours ago, noirrac1j said:

I use something called Euro Sonic (made in U.S.A. so go figure) that I bought from J Borel, but I would say you can certainly use ultrasonic solution used to clean jewelry.

 

The problem with steam cleaning is the very high temps and pressured vapor, which might damage or warp some finer parts.

I know, I know...the mainplate is just a chunk of metal. But is you consider the incabloc setting, or the cannon pinion/ great wheel that in some movements cannot be removed, then you might have problems. I've had the little legs of incabloc and KIF springs  bend or break even though they were closed because I gently cleaned the mainplate with a soft toothbrush to get dirt out and inadvertently brushed the shock settings.

My example is different than using steam, but it still might damage something . I don't use any brushes when I clean a mainplate because soaking in ultrasonic solution and rinsing alone usually will make the plate shiny and clean. I then use the compressed air to get the water out of the crevices and then soak in fresh naptha--done! You're right about cleaning jewelry with steam, but  jewelry is made to withstand general abuse form the environment, whereas internal watch parts are not. Now, a watch case, sure I would steam clean a watchcase as long as the crystal is removed. I would also clean metal watchbands with steam. Hope this helps..

JC

 Joe

Thinking about it the compressed air would accomplish what I was looking for, getting dirt left behind in Crevices. 

thanks again

Anthony

[adiorio110]

3 hours ago, Geo said:

You have had a few answers telling you not to do it and you are still considering going ahead with steam???

I'll give you another good reason for not doing it.  Brass expands approximately three times more than than the material jewels are made from when both are heated at the same temperature.  If you go ahead, you will run the risk of jewels moving or falling out if the plate.  Even if they don't come out completely, they may still move and screw up the endshake tollerances.

I use an ultrasonic machine with good quality cleaner and it does a good job.

Geo

Sorry if it upsets you, but its my nature to question things until I am satisfied with the answers I get.  While I appreciate everyone's responses, I need it to make sense to me before I accept the answer.  The first answer referred to water on metal which I didnt think was much of an issue to overcome.

In Joes first answer he discussed using Naptha without touching on the evils of steam.

Someone else touched on the different metals  and parts expanding at different rates. It made sense, now you and Joe verified and backed it up.

To be honest I cant promise one day I will not try it on a spare part to see what happens.  But for now NO STEAM 

Thank you for your replies, I really do appreciate them and I hope you excuse my need to question further some answers I may receive.

Regards

Anthony

[arkobugg]

12 hours ago, noirrac1j said:

Naptha is the way to go. If there is a lot of dirt, get yourself some ultrasonicating detergent and place the dirty parts along with a little detergent in a cup of hot water. Rinse off and dry with compressed air, dip part again in Naptha to displace residual water and dry. Works for me.

 

Joe

Hello Joe,

After you have been using Naptha, are you treating them with some more or?

Armand

[noirrac1j]

8 hours ago, adiorio110 said:

 Joe

Thinking about it the compressed air would accomplish what I was looking for, getting dirt left behind in Crevices. 

thanks again

Anthony

You're welcomed.

JC

[noirrac1j]

6 hours ago, arkobugg said:

Hello Joe,

After you have been using Naptha, are you treating them with some more or?

Armand

I use Naptha for all internal parts except the hairspring, and pallet. For these I use one-dip (Troop-Balas Labs, Western) because its designed specifically for these delicate--and crucial, watch components. I don't use anything else.

 

J

[Wesley881]

On 1/19/2017 at 2:09 PM, noirrac1j said:

I use Naptha for all internal parts except the hairspring, and pallet. For these I use one-dip (Troop-Balas Labs, Western) because its designed specifically for these delicate--and crucial, watch components. I don't use anything else.

 

J

Hi noirrac1j,

I'm excited to try the one-dip and Naptha if it will improve on my current level of cleaning parts; especially as I do not currently have a method for cleaning hairsprings and pallets.  Are these simply timed soaks or do you ultrasonic clean with these solutions?  Is there risk of Naptha igniting by using in the ultrasonic cleaner?  I have a basic Connoisseurs 'ultrasonic' cleaner for jewelry and it came with a concentrated detergent.  I typically wash parts in a hot solution of the detergent, then transfer them to the hot water rinse tank of the unit and run for another cycle.  I then displace the water by moving the parts in their containers into 99% alcohol.  From here, I have a hot plate set at about 150F to 'burn off' the alcohol and any residual water.  The parts containers sit on a small wire rack above the hotplate to promote airflow and even heating.  From here I peg the plates and give them a final dabbing with Rodico.  Any suggestions you may have would be greatly appreciated!  I haven't had any problems so far, but some experienced eyes might see something I don't.   

Best regards,

C

[noirrac1j]

Hey @Wesley881 welcome to the forum. I would not recommend using naptha in an ultrasonic cleaner. There really isn't any need for it because the purpose of it is to dissolve old oils and displace any water. The concentrated detergent gets rid of any biological grime and dirt (also solubilizes grease), and that is what benefits from ultrasonication. Plus I don't think is a great idea to breathe in that much fumes from naptha. I use concentrated detergent with water I heat to about 90 C, 3x rinse in warm water followed by wash in naptha. After that I let most parts air dry with the exception of the plates, cannon pinion and drive gears: those I dry by gentle blowing with compressed air. Everything is dry and ready to assemble within minutes. The hairspring assembly and the pallet fork get separate baths in one_dip followed by gentle drying with compressed air. I've not had any problems and I've done all types of momenteverything from cheapy BFG and EB movements, to Omega, GP, Bulova, ETA, FHF, and Seiko.

J

[Wesley881]

Thank you very much @noirrac1j, this is great information to have!  I had imagined the naptha being a solvent was more for dissolving oils, etc.  

C