I recently got an amazing Hamilton Sea Cliff 3 watch from the early 70s powered by a handwound cal.61. I received the watch and it had not been serviced in a very long time. I serviced the watch but unfortunately used an oil pick that was too large to take the elastor shock absorbing spring out to get to the endstones. I accidentally broke one of the two levers off in the process and am now left with a functioning movement that I am afraid might become easily damaged by displacement of the endstones from small shocks. I have included a photo of the KIF Elastor spring below. I looked all over the internet, and i cannot find a supplier that will sell to me (not a trained or professional watchmaker). Does anybody know where I can get one of these springs? It would be greatly appreciated if somebody could lead me in the right direction as to where to get one and how to tell if it is the 3-3 or 3-2 sizing or even have any idea what ETA movement this cal.61 is based on as there is not a complete database of these movements online.:( Thank you everyone for your help!!
Here is my puzzle. I have a watch that I am working on. A Hamilton 987. It has been cleaned and oiled and demagnetized. When I run it on the timing machine the horizontal rates and the pendant down rate are all close and about +/- 4s/day. When I move it to pendant left things get weird. It has the same amplitude but the daily rate goes way off the chart -98s/day or something, also the beat error goes from 0.5ms to 0.0ms.
The hairspring is running unobstructed, and he regulator fingers are adjusted correctly.
How can this happen? How can a wheel spinning at the same amplitude produce such a wildly different rate? And how does the beat error change with the position change like that?
Hi all, i have another military watch - this time a Hamilton, this one is a customers brought in for a service. We know the date it was producded and various other info, how ever it does'nt have 'Hamilton' on the dial. We have also found there seems to be different style models with the same serial number. Would any of you military enthusiasts be able to give us any more info? thanks
I noticed a few postings regarding split-stems and I'm having a similar problem. Sorry if I missed the solution.
I'm working on a Hamilton "Electric". I may need to check again but, it appears it's an ETA 551.121. I removed the crystal and the back.
I was able to drop the movement out because the crown came off.
I'm concerned about pulling hard on the stem. I found a site that claimed you can slowly turn the crown back while wiggling ( http://www.mybulova.com/node/4602). I found this unsuccessful.
I've included a couple photos of the stem. I also noticed an arrow directly above the stem pointing to what looks like a release for the 2nd part (see black and white pic w/arrow).
I didn't want to depress the pin for fear I may have trouble getting things back together.
I've long been a collector of Hamilton US railroad watches and wristwatches from the 1940s, but I couldn't resist this monster from the modern Swiss Hamilton company - a good old faithful ETA 6497 movement - originally for a pocket watch - in a modern wristwatch setting:
Hmmm. We’ve all had that happen. The movement isn’t securely attached to the dial and when the movement moves outward at all, the dial pulls the hands off. You will have to remove the movement/dial once you get the stem out. Then you can reattach the hands. Look into that oblong hole to the right side of the stem in your photo. Watch inside it when you pull the stem in and out and you should see a tiny lever with a really tiny hole in it moving back and forth. There even may be an arrow on the movement pointing toward that hole. When you see the lever plainly and see the hole in it, put a toothpick tip or tiny screwdriver tip and apply a little pressure there. Then the stem should slip right out. That hole sometimes appears when the stem is pulled in the setting position, sometimes in the normal position. That’s why you have to pull the stem in and out to see when it appears. After you get everything out, you can fit the hands back in place, noting the proper position for their placement so they line up properly. Hour hand on an hour marker and minute hand at 12. Seconds should be at 12 when the minute hand is on a minute marker. At least you don’t have the added complication of a date. Good luck. Steve
First time watch repairer here. My Tokyobay watch shown in the photo below needed a new battery. So I got the new battery, popped open the back, and popped out the old battery. Unfortunately, somehow while this was going on, I caused the minute hand and the other small hand (not sure it's purpose) to fall off! And I have no idea how to fix this (though very happy to try anything).
The inside of this is a Miyota IL45 and I assumed the first thing I'd need to do is get the stem disconnected from the movement. I tried pushing a pin in some of the holes and gently tugging on the crown/stem to get it out. But it didn't work and I have no idea where the release is. So that would be the first step I think...
After that, I don't know how to get at the hands to put them back in place. So that's the harder step two.
Would very much appreciate any help on this. From what I can tell, this watch doesn't seem to be very repairable. But hoping you guys can guide me!
Update: so i cleaned the watch completely and replaced the mainspring with one that i had. Had to anneal the end and bend in over to catch the barrel hook.
I then examined the jewels and found one badly damaged jewel and two other cracked jewels (fix later). Then i noticed that a tooth on the center wheel was bent completely over. I wedged in a knife and was able to move the tooth back without breaking. Lots of work remaining on this old beast.