Jump to content

Regulating A Watch Using An Android Tablet

jdrichard

By jdrichard
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
Posted

Here, I'm regulation a Seiko SKXA35 Diver. The trick is to first adjust the beat error as needed to make sure the back arm of the Palate for is in the center of the two banking posts/pins. This ensures that the palate fork evenly releases and grabs the Escapement wheel (the ticking sound you hear in an automatic watch. The program I use is Tickoprint, which is a tab version of a Timegrapher tool. Once you have the beat error accurate, you then nudge the Hairspring adjustment leaver left or right depending whether you need to speed up or slow down the watch. Tightening the Hairspring will speed up the watch and Loosening it will slow the watch down. Note that before you adjust the beat error you can see what adjusting the speed does to the beat error as well. Some times the beat error will correct when you adjust the Hairspring tension. Another note, do not touch the Hairspring at all when adjusting the watch...not good. As well, I find the the blade of a screwdriver does a better job than a toothpick for extremely small adjustments. Finally, you can only test along one axis the way I have shown, which should be good enough. However, if you really want to assess the true accuracy of your watch, you would need to adjust and test along 5 different positions. I, however, would say 3 positions (face up, face down and sideways) will result in you not missing any meetings. If you have any questions, please ask.

https://youtu.be/aFNAT9835K4

From Canada

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Here, I'm regulation a Seiko SKXA35 Diver. The trick is to first adjust the beat error as needed to make sure the back arm of the Palate for is in the center of the two banking posts/pins. This ensures that the palate fork evenly releases and grabs the Escapement wheel (the ticking sound you hear in an automatic watch. The program I use is Tickoprint, which is a tab version of a Timegrapher tool. Once you have the beat error accurate, you then nudge the Hairspring adjustment leaver left or right depending whether you need to speed up or slow down the watch. Tightening the Hairspring will speed up the watch and Loosening it will slow the watch down. Note that before you adjust the beat error you can see what adjusting the speed does to the beat error as well. Some times the beat error will correct when you adjust the Hairspring tension. Another note, do not touch the Hairspring at all when adjusting the watch...not good. As well, I find the the blade of a screwdriver does a better job than a toothpick for extremely small adjustments. Finally, you can only test along one axis the way I have shown, which should be good enough. However, if you really want to assess the true accuracy of your watch, you would need to adjust and test along 5 different positions. I, however, would say 3 positions (face up, face down and sideways) will result in you not missing any meetings. If you have any questions, please ask.

https://youtu.be/aFNAT9835K4

From Canada

Please ignore any spelling or crazy word errors, tab auto correct was on:) Palate Fork not Palate For

From Canada

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

Here's an app that I find very useful for checking timepieces that don't work well with my timegrapher. Clocks, pocket watches and the wrist watches can be checked using this. The graphical representation is good for showing up cyclic issues as well just timing accuracy that is compared against atomic time.

post-124-0-49829600-1458602822_thumb.jpe

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Here's an app that I find very useful for checking timepieces that don't work well with my timegrapher. Clocks, pocket watches and the wrist watches can be checked using this. The graphical representation is good for showing up cyclic issues as well just timing accuracy that is compared against atomic time.

attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

Hey thanks Geo. I will check this one out. Would be good to do an actual longer term comparison

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
On 3/25/2016 at 8:21 PM, jdrichard said:

I am having a jig made to hold the watch for regulating and to be able to deal with 4 positions. It will be machined from aluminum with a stand and a movable holder with an imbedded mic

How much that will cost? A standard timegrapher microphone supporting any position is $95.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How much that will cost? A standard timegrapher microphone supporting any position is $95.

I actually use a mic from some ear buds. This works very well. All you meet is three positions and you can rubber band the mic to the back of the watch and simply position the movement. Cut the ear bud wire off after the mic and you are set23f3b7b76331523595dc16958640e5be.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, jdrichard said:

I actually use a mic from some ear buds. This works very well. All you meet is three positions and you can rubber band the mic to the back of the watch and simply position the movement. 

Personally I like to regulate the watch dial down on the microphone stand itself. It places it in an ideal position, I can see in real time the effects and I don't to place or remove anything to test across positions, winding, etc,

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Personally I like to regulate the watch dial down on the microphone stand itself. It places it in an ideal position, I can see in real time the effects and I don't to place or remove anything to test across positions, winding, etc,

I'm actually having a jig made by a machinist. It will hold the mic in a grove and hold the movement down on the mic while it can be moved into various positions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar. 
    • mikepilk
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By mikepilk · Posted

      As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Any tips to correct a sloppy error?

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • JohnR725
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
×
×
  • Create New...